Cosmetics and Beauty News February 2009

A little help from Bobbi Brown
Never mind a little help from your friends - how about a little help from one of the greatest makeup experts around?! Bobbi Brown's new book, the Makeup Manual, comes with step-by-step makeup lessons and over 200 colour photographs to help you along. A classic coffee-table hardback, it covers just about everything from skincare basics to the application of gel eyeliner. Out now, it's available for a mere €17/$21 (courtesy of Amazon).

Cosmopolitan debuts its Fragrance Awards
With its beauty awards already established, this mainstay publication has decided to push the boat out with its inaugural Fragrance Awards this October. There will be 21 categories, including Sexiest Scent and Best Celebrity Fragrance. Justine Southall, Cosmopolitan's publishing director, attributes the genesis of the awards to the exponential growth of the fragrance market, and readers will be able to vote both in the August issue and online.

MAC promises to make you into a sex kitten...
...with its latest partnership with Hello Kitty. Following recent alliances with Dame Edna Everidge and Emanuel Ungaro, it appears that the brand's latest scheme relies on the popular and kitsch kitten. With the collection looking slightly more Gothic than their previous collaborations, strong pinks, oranges and blues feature in the concept, covering lips, eyes, face, nails, and accessories. It's already available Stateside and online, and is set to hit European outlets in March.

Holy water
Dior's latest fragrance, Miss Dior Chérie de L'eau, launches as an exclusive in Harrods on April 6th (two days before my birthday - woohoo!). Costing €59+, it's perhaps an expensive bet, but a must for Dior fans (the unusual slightly off-green bottle is certainly tempting and pretty). Notes include bigarade orange, white musk, and gardenia.

Truly eyeluring
False lash brand, Eyelure, has signed a deal with Girls Aloud to create a whole range of lashes centred around the popular girl band. The lashes will be designed by the girls themselves, hitting the shops in early April. This is all part of a long alliance between the two, with Eyelure providing the false lashes for Girls Aloud's Tangled Up tour last year, so get set to lash it up in truly authentic Girls Aloud style.

In yet more collaboration news...
For a truly smoking combination, Benefit and GHD have teamed up to create the limited edition 'Radiance Set', which is available in all sizes of hair styler (medium GHD, mini GHD, and GHD Salon Styler) and also contains a Benefit 'Justine Case' and a heat protection pouch for your hair styler. Prices range from £111.94 at www.girlznight.co.uk to £129 from the official GHD site.

Start spring in style
Finally, kick off spring bang on trend with all of the new spring cosmetics available. Of particular note are the Body Shop's new range (see below) and, on a slightly higher budget, Guerlain's (see right). The former embraces Ungaro-esque floral pinks, while the latter goes bright and shimmery, so that you can start spring in any style you choose. Prices start from £16 (Guerlain) and £10 (Body Shop).

Sources:
Daily Fashion Monitor
Amazon
www.temptalia.com
www.bobbibrown.com
www.mimifroufrou.com
www.cosmeticsbusiness.com
www.prlog.org
www.ghdstylerstockists.co.uk
www.girlznight.co.uk
www.guerlain.com
www.bodyshop.co.uk

Benefit Her Glossiness

RRP: £13/$18 for 3g net weight
# of shades available: 8

--What does the promo say?--
"Gloss your way to the top? This impossibly shiny gloss glides on smooth for A-list lips that will give 'em something to gossip about. The luxurious formula with jojoba oil makes your lips feel five-star pampered - as if they'd expect anything less!"

--Packaging--
In Benefit's usual style: a little bit diva-ish, a little bit cheeky, and a little bit vintage, making it above all easily recognisable as part of the brand. The tube is made of clear plastic, with the product name and brand logo laid over it in black. The screw-top lid with sponge applicator is also black.

--Application--
Just slick it on using the applicator provided and you're ready to go in seconds.

--Scent--
Absolutely gorgeous in all cases: plump, fruity, natural and delicious.

--Texture/consistency--
Feels a little sticky at times, but usually fine, smooth and pucker-up-able.

--Appearance--
Adds a little colour and sparkle while still looking natural and even giving your lips a little bit of a boost with a trick of the eye.

--Longevity--
Stays on for hours, as long as you don't eat, drink, or kiss anything...as with almost any lip gloss, then.

--Value for money--
Mixed feelings: looking at the price makes me think 'hey, that ain't bad'...but then you realise that Estée Lauder's lip glosses are the SAME price and that Guerlain's are only £3 more. So it's as with all things Benefit, then: not bad quality, but heavily reliant on the kitschy packaging, and definitely worth purchasing only in sale time.

Baxter of California Daily Protein Shampoo

RRP: $13 for 300ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Protein, Coenzyme Q10, and nutrients promote hair strength, body, and manageability. Gentle formula removes buildup, and natural toxins like DHT, a male hormone found to be harmful to the hair's growth cycle."

--Packaging--
Cool blue, Kiehl's-style packaging, evoking a unisex vintage pharmacy feel. Plastic bottle with simple flip-top lid.

--Application--
As usual really: lather into wet hair, and rinse. Repeat and/or follow with accompanying conditioner if desired.

--Appearance--
A clear gel that's very slightly off-yellow. Transparent. Leaves no visible residue in the hair.

--Scent--
The tea tree smell is really invigorating and unusual for a shampoo. Wakes you up with its fresh, clean and distinctive smell.

--Texture/consistency--
Quite viscous, which can occasionally make it difficult to dispense from the bottle. However, it is easy to massage into the hair and easy to rinse.

--Longevity--
Results are positive both short and long-term, with smoothness and overall condition of hair being restored. I know this is a men's brand, but I may have to nick it. The Italian lime and bergamot ranges also sound delish.

--Value for money--
Excellent: you're getting something from a specialist company in men's care, which also works quite well for women. Good stuff. It also costs less than brands that are better-known (e.g. L'Occitane, Kiehl's), for no apparent reason. Go and add this to the grooming routine of the guy in your life - or why not your own, for that matter!

perfect partners
Daily Moisturising Conditioner, $14 for 300ml

Retails at: full list available here

Bourjois Imperfection Concealer

# of shades available: 3
RRP: £5.40 on www.echemist.co.uk

--What does the promo say?--
"We've all been through it: skin breakouts at the most crucial times! Bourjois helps you look your best with Imperfection Concealer, which provides high coverage for blemishes. Its texture is also creamy enough to use under the delicate eye area, to banish heavy-duty dark circles."

--Packaging--
I like the leopard/wildlife approach, as it's very different to other stick concealers on the market. The stick is also very dinky and I like the little mirror on the top too. The only thing to not score points with me is the use of the word 'imperfection' - really prefer the use of the word 'blemish', but maybe that's just a personal thing. The container fastens securely and, although it's made of plastic, it seems fairly durable.

--Application--
Just stroke onto blemishes directly from the stick or by using your own brush. Ideally do this after applying foundation so that the foundation has already done some of the work for you, but before applying powder.

--Appearance--
Looks slightly caked on and is only half effective when it comes to covering spots, and despite the limited range of shades it seems to blend well with even the palest of foundation or powder (though those with darker skins may have more trouble). However, I wouldn't be happy to use it on its own, as I would be with e.g. L'Oreal's Touche Magique.

--Texture/consistency--
Certainly adequate, though not the finest or lightest concealer I've ever tried.

--Longevity--
Coverage was only adequate to begin with, but it at least doesn't seem to slide off or fade.

--Value for money--
At £5.40 it's an OK price, but I'd be loath to pay much more. This concealer is average: it doesn't stand up either to other stick concealers (e.g. Collection 2000's) or pen/liquid concealers (e.g. L'Oreal's). My advice? Go with something else.

perfect partners
Bourjois Compact Powder, £7.80
Bourjois Little Round Pot Blusher, £6.80

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China Glaze Nail Polish

RRP: c.$9/£7.95 a bottle

--What does the promo say?--
"Why should you choose China Glaze nail polish? China Glaze is a brand that has proven its worth by the thousands of customers that continue to come back for more. With our experience, China Glaze nail polish stays on and looks beautiful at the same time! China Glaze nail polish is used in professional nail polish salons across the United States on acrylic nails and natural nails."

--Packaging--
The brand name is clever and unusual, tacitly promising the same effect of a pottery-esque glaze on your nails, as if you yourself were a work of art. The logo is in keeping with this home-made, kilned imagery, simply comprising a monochrome flame. The lid is black and the width of the bottle tapers towards the lid.

--Application--
The soft brush makes application easy. After applying a base coat, one stroke on the middle of the nail, followed by each side, should do it. Second coat optional, though finishing with a top coat is advised.

--Appearance--
It certainly delivers on the idea of a glaze, offering a smooth, high-shine colour. The brand's range of colours also offers shimmery, metallic, and glittery variants.

--Texture/consistency--
It certainly seems smooth enough, without being too runny, but takes a long time to dry. There is, however, certainly no stickiness or lumpiness.

--Longevity--
Mixed feelings on this one: it seems to chip and smudge VERY easily on occasion, even when you think the stuff has finally dried. However, on the whole results are generally good, even if you opt out of using a top coat.

--Value for money--
Prices are reasonable, especially for a brand specialising in nail varnish (brands that don't specialise in nail colour, such as Maybelline, probably offer their polishes for the same price), and even more so given that if you shop around the products can be even cheaper elsewhere. A huge range of colours and finishes are offered, allowing consumers to choose from a cheaper alternative to brands such as OPI. While Nails Inc probably still pips this to the post, it is a lot more expensive with it, and given that this is comparable in price to various high street brands, while still offering a high standard of choice and quality, I would go for this over Maybelline and Bourjois equivalents every time. Just be careful when applying and your patience will probably pay off.

retails at: http://chinaglazediva.com, www.nailspasupply.com, www.ebeautyproducts.co.uk, www.beautychamber.co.uk, Sally's, The Beauty Partnership

Estée Lauder Take It Away Total Makeup Remover

RRP: £17.62 for 200ml

--What does the promo say?--
"An exclusive, patented gel-creme that quickly and thoroughly removes all makeup even transfer-resistant and waterproof formulas and cleanses the face of impurities in just one step, leaving the skin soft, smooth and completely clean. Encapsulates liquid emollients in microscopic gel bubbles. When massaged into the skin, bubbles release emollients that penetrate and dissolve makeup and lift away surface oils and dirt. Immediately "melts" away even the most stubborn makeup. Lifts away dirt and impurities. Feels cool and refreshing upon application. Leaves skin silky smooth, with no greasy residue."

--Packaging--
A pale blue pump-action plastic bottle, in keeping with all of Estée Lauder's other skincare products, and with the distinctive logo subtly displayed. However, at 200ml, a smaller available version would be useful for travel.

--Application--
The Estée Lauder website advises users to "pump bottle twice and apply product directly to skin. Do not wet face first. Massage thoroughly. Transfer-resistant makeup may need additional gentle massage. For best results rinse off with water." However, as far as I could tell from the sample I was given, 2 pumps would probably be too much, so this bottle could turn out to be more economical than the application instructions make it appear. Rinsing off with water also does not seem to be necessary: no residue is left on the skin, skin feels adequately cleansed, and makeup is suitably removed, without this additional step being required.

--Appearance--
The lotion is a pale duck-egg blue, identical to the packaging in colour. It looks natural and leaves no visible residue on the face.

--Scent--
No discernible scent.

--Texture/consistency--
Perfect: not too oily (which the Nivea remover that I reviewed can sometimes feel in the fingers), not too runny (ditto), not too stiff or lumpy. Brava!

--Effectiveness--
It removes makeup more easily than any other remover I've tried (yes, even the Olay one of which I sing such praise). With other removers, there can be smudges on the cotton pad after using my toner even the next morning. With this, you KNOW it's all gone, and it doubles up as an effective cleanser to boot.

--Value for money--
While I initially balked at the cost, and can't see myself ever spending that much on remover wipes (even for travel), I could potentially see myself buying this (although being a perpetual bargain hunter means that I still wouldn't stop trawling discount cosmetics sites to try to get it for less). It is the best makeup remover I've ever tried - and also the most expensive. Perhaps you really do get what you pay for?

perfect partners
Take It Away Long Wear Eye and Lip Makeup Remover, £15.66/100ml
Take It Away Long Wear Makeup Remover Towelettes, £17.62/45 sheets

L'Occitane Repairing Shampoo for Dry and Damaged Hair

RRP: £11.75 for 300ml

--What does the promo say?--
"This Shampoo contains a natural complex of 5 essential oils (angelica, lavender, geranium, patchouli, ylang-ylang) which work together in synergy to help repair, strengthen, regenerate and soften dry and damaged hair. Its natural origin botanical bases offers a gentle, non-stripping and non-drying cleansing. Your hair is left looking and feeling supple, shiny and silky. This product is free from: parabens, synthetic colorants, formol or formaldehyde, animal ingredients, triclosan, SLES, BHA."

--Packaging--
Harmonises excellently with other products in the range, keeping the orange and green theme going. The green bottle is see-through - always a plus so that you know when you need to top up your supplies. The cap is a simple silver flip-top.

--Usage/application instructions--
Just use as you would use normal shampoo: lather up a small amount, rub into wet hair, and then rinse. Only one application is necessary for desirable results, even if your hair is in need of serious help.

--Appearance--
A clear, runny liquid. After washing, miracle results are not immediately yielded, but hair is visibly shinier, smoother and better controlled. You can even go for two days without rewashing before a hint of grease appears. Impressive.

--Texture/consistency--
The shampoo would be more controllable in its raw form if it were more viscous. However, how the hair feels after treatment just cannot be argued with: smooth silkiness can definitely be yours with this, even if it takes some time to reach its full potential (it felt more impressive a few hours after washing than it did immediately after blowdrying).

--Scent--
Despite all the essential oils, I couldn't smell anything in particular: just a really nice clean smell.

--Longevity--
Hair condition is improved from the very first use, and has been the first shampoo since L'Oreal's Re-Nutrition to make a real difference to my hair. These effects are visible over days and weeks - surprising after my horrid experience with the Repairing Serum from this same line recently.

--Value for money--
You hardly need to use any of this at a time - probably only 2-3ml per application, tops, meaning that you're likely to get roughly 100 uses from this bottle for a very reasonable price, in exchange for excellent results. Nice.

Clarins Moisture Replenishing Lip Balm

RRP: £14.69 for 15ml

--What does the promo say?--
"A balm formulation choc-full of key ingredients. Because of its super-concentration, chapped, dry, cracked lips are a thing of the past. Instead lips are soft, smooth and given a new lease of life. Perfect for the entire family, it protects and delivers continuous moisture."

--Packaging--
Classic Clarins in unisex white and dark red (although, saying that, their men's range is white and dark blue). Refreshingly uncomplicated.

--Application--
The Clarins website recommends the following: "Apply morning and/or evening and several times during the day if needed. Gently squeeze the tube and apply pressing the slanted tip against lips." I'm surprised they actually recommend reapplication several times a day, as it implies that the balm doesn't hold for long. Is this a stupid mistake? Are they just trying to get you to apply it liberally so that you buy more of it? Or are they just being honest?

--Appearance--
A beautiful peachy colour that looks wonderfully natural, while still delivering high shine on the lips, and which also makes lips appear bigger.

--Scent/taste--
Unfortunately, this smells and tastes much like soap. A shame, as the peachy colour leads you to expect something fruitier. Even more unfortunately, the taste really lingers in the mouth if you happen to catch it on your tongue. Make sure you have a box of Tic Tacs ready.

--Texture/consistency--
Wonderfully sumptuous and thick without being sticky, stringy or heavy.

--Longevity--
This has excellent tenure - it isn't perfect, but certainly puts up a better fight than the majority of high street glosses and balms. Reapply 2-4 times a day.

--Effects on the lips--
Short-term and long-term, this provides an effective barrier against cold winds and keeps your lips soft and smooth.

--Value for money--
A versatile and effective product that combines the glamour of gloss with the utility of a lip balm, this is a great way to sex up those dull winter days, and certainly worth your £14 - especially since you need so little per application. However, they really really need to sort that taste out - it's the only thing stopping this from being a virtually perfect product.

perfect partners
Gentle Facial Peeling, £20.55 for 40ml
Thirst-Quenching HydraCare Mask, £25.45 for 50ml