Purity Organic Skincare Facial Exfoliator Deep Pore Cleanser

RRP: £5.99 for 100ml

--What does the promo say?--
"A deep clean from ground coconut shell in a blend of coconut oil, sweet almond oil and aloe vera to leave your skin cleaner, softer and brighter.

Product Ingredients: Water; Coconut oil to act as an emollient and moisturiser; Sweet Almond oil to soften, moisturise and condition skin membrane; Coconut shell to act as an exfoliator; Aloe Vera to soften skin.

About Purity: Purity Organic Skincare is a range of certified organic skincare products which use intelligent ingredients, that are few in number but highly effective. A combination which results in beautiful skin and is kind to the earth. Less is more in beauty. 99.2% of the total of ingredients are of natural origin; 89.4% of the total of ingredients processed from Organic Farming."

--Packaging--
A lovely serene white tube with a white and purple label. I love purple generally, but especially like it here, in a skincare world where blues and greens are all the rage. There usually seems to be a little exfoliator leakage in the lid every time I flip it open, which is a tad annoying but nothing serious.

--Application--
Whether alone or mixed with cleanser, rub onto wet skin, massaging well. Rinse off with a damp flannel. Easy, and rinses off relatively well. Using a toner afterwards will get rid of any remaining bits of exfoliator.

--Scent--
Surprisingly bland - does not match up to the distinctive essential oils that are detectable in other products in this range. Nevertheless, there are no odd or unpleasant smells, and this should be great for people who like fragrance-free products.

--Appearance--
A white, runny lotion, dotted with dark brown spots of ground coconut shell.

--Texture/consistency--
The lotion is smooth and works well with the natural scrubbiness of the coconut shell (which, incidentally, works far better than the artificial beads used in some exfoliators).

--How does your skin feel afterwards?--
Smoothened and retextured. Great stuff!

--Effects over time--
Highly effective. While it doesn't 100% banish dry patches, it does help enormously, and reduces dry skin over time to create a more unified skin tone. 80%-90% effectiveness, I'd say - I still get blackheads after a few weeks of use.

--Value for money--
More effective than some exfoliators that are double the price, almost immediately visible effects, and it's packed full of lovely stuff. With a bit more time (1 month+), I hope that those blackheads will disappear too.

perfect partners
Purity Facial Wash, £4.99
Purity Organic Skincare Facial Moisturiser, £5.99
Purity Regenerating Overnight Moisturiser, £7.99

L'Oreal Studio Secrets Lip Stick

RRP: £8.99
# of shades available: 24

--What does the promo say?--
"L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Lipstick shades have been created to suit over 30 natural lip shades. L’Oréal Paris’ first range of tailor-made shades, developed according to 4 phenotypes: blonde, light brunette, dark brunette, dark-skin tones. All lipstick shades are classified into 6 colour categories: nude, coral, pink, red, plum and brown. The oils and emollient pastes are well-balanced to create a creamy texture, with stand out colour. L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Lipsticks are formulated to suit every type of make-up look; from neutral day time, to evening high glamour. The textures and effects provide either a glossy, satin or matte finish."

--Packaging--
L'Oreal has reverted to squarish packaging, while the current fashion seems to be for rounder lipstick canisters, and squarer lipgloss tubes. The transparent plastic on the middle band is very Thierry Mugler-ish and edgy, and the lid comes off easily when you want it to, while closing securely when you don't.

--Application--
The lipstick's end is cut off flatly rather than being tapered; whether this aids or hinders application depends on your point of view. I personally found application to be hassle-free. Can be worn with L'Oreal's Studio Secrets matching lip liners and lip glosses, or can be worn alone.

--Scent--
While I can't speak for all 24 shades, Pink 220 for blondes smells like candy floss! Always a pleasant surprise when you're used to the usual waxy odour of current market lipsticks.

--Texture/consistency--
Very smooth on initial application, although can become a little drying later.

--Appearance--
Whether Pink 220 just wasn't right for me, or for what I was wearing when I tested it, I just didn't feel that it pushed my buttons. The colour was beyond candy floss - almost a sort of neon pink. Probably would look better on blondes with more tanned skin, which perhaps suggests that L'Oreal should take their personalisation strategy further and match, say, two of the colours available of the 6 per hair colour to skin tone as well (thus subdividing each hair colour category into lipstick colours for pale, tanned, and dark skin). I did like the matte finish, though, and would be prepared to try the nude colours available for blondes.

--Longevity--
Relatively good - I'd say 5 or 6 hours (though as I said, it does become a little drying on the lips as time goes on, even while the colour remains).

--Value for money--
While the concept of this is nice, and L'Oreal have brought their lipsticks properly into the 21st century with this, I would rather go for a lipstick from the brand with a more reliable personalisation strategy (their Made for Me Naturals range, which looks more realistic and is less drying on the lips). They're doing the right thing with this, and allowing consumers to tailor their makeup choices according to hair, skin and eye colour is something that's worked well for them in the past - but with this there are definitely some improvements to be made.

perfect partners
L'Oreal Studio Secrets Ultra-Glossy Lip Lacquer, £7.99
L'Oreal Studio Secrets High Definition Lip Liner, £4.99

Avon Bond Girl 007 Eau de Parfum

RRP: £16 for 50ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Velvety florals, cool freshness and warm woods."

--Packaging--
While the box is perhaps a little tacky (silvery, with viewfinder-style swirls), the bottle itself is much better, embodying a womanly figure while still incorporating a James Bond gadgetry-style application point. The half-ring at the top helps rather than hinders application, and the top of the bottle is chunky and impressive. The spritzer works well, and because it's small it's also very targeted (you spray your wrists and it doesn't go all down your skirt or top).

--Application--
Spray onto pulse points at wrists and behind ears. Another new one I've heard recently is spraying into the hemline of your skirt so that the fragrance may be effectively diffused, but I don't much fancy having to wash out perfume stains.

--Appearance--
The liquid is a gorgeous and fashionable coral pink that is invisible when sprayed onto the skin.

--Scent--
While this is perhaps not the most refined scent on the market, it does at least deliver what it promises (which is more than can be said of some other fragrances). Florals? Check. Warm woods? Got it. Cool freshness? Perhaps not as obvious as the other two characteristics, but it is there. The result is a fragrance that not only transcends generations (you can wear it with style, but so can your mum) but is also light enough for summer while still being intense enough for winter. It also fits extremely well with both the celebrity chosen to front it (Gemma Arterton, who starred as Agent Fields in Bond film Quantum of Solace ) as well as with the Bond theme. The packaging and fragrance together make this perfect for the gutsiest of girls as well as the most feminine.

--Longevity--
Lasts longer on the neck than on the wrists, but the quality in this area is sadly generally average. Expect to reapply every few hours.

--Value for money--
This fragrance is full of personality, both in terms of its advertising campaign and in terms of the scent itself, so it doesn't surprise me that it's been such a success (Avon are still running it after nearly a year: PRs had word of it last summer, it came out in October 2008, and was a Christmas best seller in that year also). As compared to other commercial perfumes, the price is also right, and the scent matches up to its description, even if the longevity of it falls slightly short for an eau de parfum. As someone who's coveted this ever since she first got wind of it, I'm pleased to have finally got my greasy little mitts on it (though I don't know why I hadn't managed to procure it before now, since it came out when I was still an Avon representative, meaning that I could have had a discount on it!) - it completely fulfils my expectations and continues to fly the Avon flag high.

perfect partners
Avon SpectraColor Lipstick, £10
Avon SpectraLash Mascara, £10

Liz Earle Orange Flower Botanical Body Wash

RRP: £10.50/200ml bottle. Also available in 100ml (£7.50) and 30ml (£4.25).

--What does the promo say?--
"Wash daily with this divinely scented body wash. With naturally derived foaming agents plus soothing organic oats and yarrow, it leaves every skin type fresh, soft and smooth."

--Packaging--
The tiniest available body wash is in a squeezy tube with a screw-top lid, whereas the larger sizes look like they're made from harder, thicker plastic (and it's difficult to tell whether that's a screw-top or flip-top lid in the picture). In any case, it appears that all of the packaging looks the same apart from this. It evokes calm blue oceans rather than orange flowers, but nevertheless would look nice in anyone's bathroom as well as fitting in nicely with the Liz Earle concept.

--Application--
As usual really: rub onto wet body while showering or bathing, work up a lather, and then rinse off.

--Scent--
Exactly what it says on the bottle: the orange scent comes through just divinely.

--Appearance--
The body wash itself is a runny transparent gel. A light white foam is created during use that leaves no visible residue on the skin once washed away.

--Texture/consistency--
The gel is irresistibly smooth and the bubbles appear almost immediately once you start using it. The bubbles also easily rival any artificial shower gel and stay on your body for as long as you want them to while still washing off easily.

--How does your skin feel afterwards?--
I've never really had a problem with dry body skin, so can't really report any change there (since my body skin seems to regulate itself fairly well on its own). However, it is a fairly gentle body wash, so can believe that it would soothe sensitive skins (unless, of course, you happen to be sensitive to essential oils).

--Longevity--
Skin feels clean, soft and smooth both short and long term. Sadly, the scent doesn't really linger for long after washing (barely an hour).

--Value for money--
While this is on the expensive side for a shower gel, it really is divine to use and I love the natural foaming agents (it's mostly soap tree bark as far as I understand). The citrusy yet perfumed smell wakes you up gently and the texture means that the gel glides over your body with the greatest of care. Would definitely buy again.

perfect partner
Orange Flower Hand Wash, from £4.25

Cosmetics & Beauty News June 2009

Move into summer with spring
Green & Spring, that is. Say hello to Britain's newest body care brand. Featuring beautiful Warhol-style drawings of British birdlife on its bottles, it promises that its natural remedies are "rooted in the British countryside, inspired by the very best of our wild environment as nature intended". Sounds good to me - those bottles should leap right off the shelves with their distinctive packaging among bland after bland bottle designs. Featuring candles and gifts as well as lip balm, body lotion, shower gels and hand creams, essential oils are abundant and should prepare your body amply for a summer of sunshine. Purchase from http://greenandspring.com or from Liberty of London, as well as from a selection of hotels in Oxford, Paris and Gloucestershire.

Fragrance news
Many brands are unveiling new fragrances soon (some this summer, some a little later - remember, patience is a virtue!). Among them are Chanel, with BEIGE, named after Coco Chanel's favourite colour; Jo Malone's vanilla and anise fragrance, designed to evoke the moment that vanilla orchids bloom at daybreak in Madagascar (available from September); Dior, with Escale à Pondichéry (inspired by Pondicherry in India, and heavily fragranced with Assam tea, lemon, cardamom, bergamot, and other spices - £46 from July 6th); Lancome, with Hypnose Senses (contains notes of patchouli, rockrose labdanum, benzoin vanilla, tonka bean, osmanthus absolute, honey, pink peppercorns and mandarin essence); and Avon with In Bloom, fronted by Reese Witherspoon and available in November. See, boys, there's plenty for you to choose from...you have no excuse.

100 years of beauty
L'Oreal celebrates its centenary this year, and instead of holding a star-studded party in its honour, they have instead launched their '100 citizens project', which aims to equip people in local communities worldwide with the skills and resources they need to enter the beauty industry, such as hairdressing training in the Philippines, promoting science in Indonesia, and encouraging the professional placement of underprivileged youths in Portugal. As well as potentially creating jobs in the midst of a recession, such a project could also encourage self-esteem, provide a brighter future for those who were never given the chance to have one, and allow those who benefit to pass on the same values of hard work and opportunity to those around them. Nice work.

Minerals for men
Giorgio Armani has harnessed the power of volcanic minerals to create its new range for men. Consisting of just about everything from a shaving cream to a bronzer, there should be something here for all men, from the manliest to the most effeminate. The range claims to help strengthen skin structure, refine texture, and unify tone; the only thing it doesn't come with is a lock and key for the lads to keep this lovely stuff away from the girls.

Economise with Chiconomise
We beauty buffs need all the help we can get in these recessionary times in order to keep us going with a steady supply of makeup and various other beauty bits. Thankfully, there is help at hand. Chiconomise, a website created by Apprentice winner Michelle Dewberry, will make sure we never miss a good deal ever again, giving information on sales and discount vouchers. Current spotlighted deals include 10% off Benefit cosmetics, 50% off at Body Shop, and a saving of £7.45 on YSL Touche Eclat. Permission to say this is ingenious?

The things these kids will do...
A report recently conducted by Simple skincare reveals the frankly horrifying things that some young girls will resort to in the quest for perfect skin. A survey of 1000 teens aged 13-17 (300 boys and 700 girls) this May showed that the top five responses to the question 'what extreme measures have you taken to remedy spots and acne?' were vodka applied neat to the skin, applying a harsh cleanser and toner followed immediately by a sunbed session, freezing the area with an ice cube and then applying muscle relief cream Deep Heat, neat application of TCP to the affected area, and neat application of nail varnish remover to the affected area. Thankfully, its newly established Junior Board of Skincare Advisors, the youngest Board to date, is on hand to quash these myths and send girls on their way feeling a little happier and surer about how they can treat spots. Keep your eyes peeled and your ears open to see what the Junior Board can do to make a difference.

Get a tan before your hols - organically
Perhaps instead of sticking raw skin under sun lamps, the misinformed teenagers above should perhaps ask their parents very nicely for a summer treat at Gielly Green. Located in Marylebone, West London, the salon offers a full-body tanning treatment using organic cleansers, rich clay exfoliators, and rose-scented body lotions as well as the organic sandalwood-scented tanning lotion. Furthermore, if that's not personal enough, they also offer a bespoke spray tan, with a number of choices available from the tan shade to whether it's contaminant-free or quick-dry. Both treatments cost £65, so while a bit pricey, it sounds a hell of a lot better than possibly burning yourself on a sun bed.











Extracting beauty
Available from tomorrow (July 1st) at Boots is their new Boots Extracts range. The tagline, 'developed to make a difference', certainly seems to deliver - as well as promising soft lips and smooth skin with all kinds of lovely stuff like mango extract and rosehip seed oil, it's also Fairtrade, meaning that the products are ethically produced and help communities in developing countries. The range not only includes Body Shop-style body butters and lip balms, but also offers travel collections and gift sets.

Cosmetics Contemplations: Yes to Carrots, No To Parabens?

Yes To Carrots is just one of a number of ranges lately to either centre their range entirely on its lack of parabens (a commonly-used preservative in beauty products) or cite it as a major feature of its products. Launched in January 2008, Yes To Carrots promises its consumers paraben-free products "to ensure your products stay clean while ensuring your safety" by using alternative preservatives, and centring its range on the use of cucumber and tomato as well as carrots.

A quick consultation with our friend Google reveals hundreds of results when "paraben-free skincare" is typed in. Concern regarding parabens initially arose in 1998 following an American report from the Environmental Protection Agency stating that parabens demonstrated oestrogenic activity, which some have read to indicate that these chemicals could imitate hormones found in the human body and have an adverse effect on the endocrine system (system of glands that release hormones and regulate metabolism, growth, development, puberty and mood). However, this was further brought to public attention more recently when a separate report indicated that parabens had been found in breast cancer tissue. Since then, the market for paraben-free skincare and cosmetics has grown exponentially, which leaves companies that still use parabens in their products open to scrutiny.

Some companies have made no response to this and continued as normal. Other companies have continued using parabens, but have also issued statements by way of justification. Lush is one of these companies, who reply with the following:

"71% of Lush products do not contain preservatives because, whenever possible, we create formulas that do not require them. However, the remaining 29% of our products do require some preservatives to prevent the growth of bacteria. The most important thing is that our products are safe to use. Without a preservative some of our products would start to go off. Methyl and propyl paraben are used to control the growth of bacteria, yeasts and moulds. We use less than half the maximum permitted level to ensure the product is as mild as possible and the skin's natural micro flora is not affected. This low level of use also helps with the bio-degradability of our product and any waste material created during manufacture.

[These parabens] have a long history of safe use and are highly effective. [They] are some of the oldest of cosmetic preservatives and have been used since the 1920s. They are used globally and are permitted by every world health authority (500 independent safety studies have been carried out over the decades). They are considered safe because of their low toxicity and how our bodies process them when eaten in foods. They don’t accumulate or get stored in the body and are eliminated normally.

A combination of mis-interpretation and flawed studies has caused a lot of worry associated with the use of parabens in cosmetics. The main sound bite often quoted - “parabens were found in breast cancer tissue” - comes from a study that has been completely discredited by scientists. No causal link between parabens and cancer has been proven. You may also have heard that parabens show weak oestrogenic (oestrogen = female hormone) activity. This is true, but the effect is so weak that it is not significant. By comparison, whole grains, hops, soy beans and many other common foods show high oestrogenic activity.

Nevertheless, paraben scare-stories have spread via mass-emails, websites and the media, and several companies have started to sell their products by specifically promoting that they are “paraben-free”. The fact is that methyl paraben and propyl paraben are the safest cosmetic preservatives around – and using alternatives which may not have been proved to be safe or effective could be more dangerous than simply sticking to parabens. Many companies are promoting ‘paraben-free’ products as if this is a good thing. This demonstrates the danger of companies supporting unsubstantiated rumours. If a cosmetic product that contains water is declared to be ‘paraben-free’ it will contain another preservative.

If it doesn’t contain an effective, proven preservative it is dangerous in itself as it provides a breeding ground for bacteria. Some other formulas may also require the presence of preservatives. At Lush, all elements of the formulation process, including whether or not a preservative is required, are always carefully considered.

Our products are freshly made locally, which is something most cosmetics manufacturers can’t compete with. Our fresh face masks are made without preservatives in small batches and delivered direct to customers and shops – and they must be kept in the fridge and used within three weeks of making. These are the ideal cosmetic product for anyone concerned about preservatives! We use parabens only when necessary.We use them at the lowest possible levels, which is why our products won’t last for three years (the industry average), and why we put a use-by date on them. 71% of our products are unpreserved. For this, we are unique in the industry."

As is all-too-common in the fashion and beauty industry, consumers are therefore left (again) unsure about who or what they should believe. Mass-market brands such as L'Oréal and John Frieda continue to use parabens; natural brands like Liz Earle also continue to use them when necessary. The implication for many users, thanks to the ensuing media frenzy behind the 'parabens in breast cancer tissue' report, is that natural is good and that anything artificial is bad. As Lush points out, it's only common sense that preservatives should be required (and, indeed, many more can be found in food, even if you avoid ready-meals like the plague) so that products can remain safe. Plus, it is perhaps also obvious that not everything natural is good - while this does take things to the extreme, deadly nightshade and a bite from a puff adder are both perfectly natural but will also kill you.


It therefore stands to reason that this natural=good and artificial=bad dichotomy has to stop. Almost every week the media report that something new will give us cancer, whether it's coffee or parabens. Where did the old adage 'everything in moderation' go? Perhaps more worrying is the complacency that this will breed in people; many who have never smoked, are vegetarian and exercise regularly die young from various illnesses, while those who McDonald's and smoke their way to their graves get a telegram from the Queen. But I digress.

People therefore need to start choosing for themselves again in order to make distinctions between fake threats and real ones (perhaps unlike parabens, Yes To Carrots' next target, phthalates, have been linked in the past to birth defects, and can also contribute to allergies and diabetes as well as disrupting the endocrine system). Sites such as Cosmetics Cop are incredibly valuable in helping people to do this. Pseudo-science is often peddled in the news in order to manipulate the masses, sending them running from one point of view to another (particularly in the case of animal testing) when they have barely considered the true issue at hand. Or, as in this case, from one product to another. Obsessive label-reading is no bad thing; it's good to know what's in your products, even if only to check out the ingredients for allergy reasons. In fact, think on this: my father used to be allergic to carrots.

L'Oréal Studio Secrets Anti-Redness Primer

RRP: £9.99

--What does the promo say?--
"L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Anti-Redness Primer gives a uniform skin tone. All women can harness the power of these primers to create the illusion of a flawless complexion. It’s just a matter of obeying the laws of complementary colours. To neutralise a shade, simply apply its complementary shade. The green tinted primer reduces the appearance of red, giving the skin a more even tone."

--Packaging--
A very slim, travel-friendly pump-action bottle. L'Oréal have kept the packaging simple, both in terms of packaging and in terms of ease of use. The lid is secure and prevents leakage effectively; the bottle is also transparent, allowing you to always know how much primer remains. Professional-looking and lightweight.

--Application--
One is advised to apply L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Anti-Redness Primer in little dabs on red patches, and then tap with your fingertips to work it into the skin. No problems with this.

--Scent--
None.

--Texture/consistency--
Quite runny, but not to such an extent that wastage is a problem. Blends into skin more easily than its No7 rival.

--Appearance--
The lotion is a slightly-alarming-if-you're-not-used-to-it pale green, which leaves no residue or tide marks on the face while still calming skin tone and providing a smoother-looking base for makeup. Redness is toned, though not completely faded (but hey - let's not ask the impossible).

--Longevity--
Doesn't slide off, keeps makeup in place, and keeps redness toned down for most of the day. A generally solid performance.

--Value for money--
With the same RRP as No7's equivalent, and putting in as good a performance, it's difficult to tell which will fly off the shelves faster, although the Studio Secrets range has had far more publicity. The consistency is also a winner here, as is the extremely travel-friendly packaging, and its performance augurs well for the rest of the range.

Other available products
L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Anti Dull-Skin Primer, £9.99 (available in pink for light skin and purple for dark skin)
L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Anti-Shine Mattifying Primer, £9.99
L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Smoothing Resurfacing Primer, £11.99