Cosmetics & Beauty News April 2009

New fragrance from Valentino
Available exclusively at Harrods from May 10, this fragrance from Valentino is the newest in a series of romantic scents, which also features Rock 'n' Rose, Rock 'n' Rose Couture, and Rock 'n' Rose Pret-A-Porter. Rock 'n' Dreams comes in an innocuous-looking flacon, with white floral motif and stopper. Starting at a very reasonable £29 for 30ml, it features unusual top notes of peach and cinnamon, base notes of woods and vanilla, and a heart note of myrrhone.

Stay natural this summer...
...with OnlyNature, a beauty e-tailer which, as well as flogging ethically produced beauty products, also features celebrity and beauty industry news, reviews and advice. They recently sent me their NeoStrata Bionic face cream, which I'll be trying out as soon as I can and reviewing here for your viewing pleasure.

For the Tuscan soul in you
In yet more fragrance news, it has come to light that Salvatore Ferragamo is releasing a new fragrance range for both men and women, after the 2008 fragrance Tuscan Soul, which features Sicilian citrus, sunflower, iris, white lupin and calabrian bergamot. The bottle takes you straight to the Italian city just by looking at it, mixing frosted glass with warm honey-coloured caps, and as well as continuing to sell the eau de toilette (prices from £29), the range will extend to include body lotion and shower gel (from £22). Equally exciting is the launch of a series of three fragrances by Max Mara, to mark the first anniversary of the original Le Parfum. Zeste & Musc, Petales & Musc and Bois & Musc will launch in three different seasons throughout the year, with Zeste & Musc, the first, out this month starting at £30.

Sustaining youth? Sustainable Youth tells us how
Recently featured in this month's edition of Vanity Fair, Sustainable Youth uses its Alasta aloe vera complex to combat the effects of ageing. Available as a spicy serum, soothing cream and oral supplement, prices start at $65. Not ready to report back yet, but can happily say that the serum smells divine - I don't mind smelling like biscuits at all :) Companies certainly seem to be cashing in on the 'beauty from within' thing - Hirsana is another to have brought out an oral supplement recently which claims to strengthen nails, skin and hair. Prices start at $30 from www.hirsanausa.com .

Come fly with me
Are there products you never go anywhere without? What are your travel essentials? Heathrow Airport will be announcing your favourites with its first Travel Product Awards, with winners being revealed on the 8th May. I wouldn't mind betting that Elizabeth Arden's 8 Hour Cream features in there somewhere. And speaking of portable products, Marian Newman's Inkredible Brush-on Nail Polish Pens might be one for your travel bag. At last we might be able to touch up our nails with the same ease as a lip gloss. Available at Charles Worthington in London, and from www.mariannewmannails.com.

First Dior, now Chanel...
Following my report last month on the new book about the rise of Dior, it appears that we'll also be treated to an opus on Coco Chanel, just in time for the release of the film 'Coco Avant Chanel'. Published by Steidl, Mademoiselle is written by Douglas Kirkland and Karl Lagerfeld, and features photographs of the famous lady, taken in the summer of 1962 during an assignment in Paris for American magazine Look. Allowing us to imagine a little of what Coco Chanel's life was like before she took the world by storm, the book is out now for $45/£30/€35.

Givenchy partners with Uma Thurman
Parfums Givenchy has recently announced a partnership with Uma Thurman for a new fragrance - more details of which to be revealed later this summer. However, contrary to the online rumour mill, Liv Tyler will still be staying on as the main face of Givenchy. Good times. The fragrance should hit the UK this September (2009) and America next September (2010).

Tan-tastic
In more collaboration news, Jodie Kidd will be fronting the newest technology from St Tropez - the Aromaguard, which sees off the usual self-tanning smell and replaces it with a harmonious wisp of iris, violets, and fresh fruit. The new technology will be present from this month in various products from St Tropez, including the New Everyday Gradual Tan Mousse and the Self Tan Bronzing Lotion. And the best part? Since the Aromaguard technology is dependent on the reaction between DHA (the main ingredient in self-tanning products) and the proteins on the surface of your skin, this means that the flowery scent will be unique to you in terms of duration and intensity, providing a bit of bespoke zing to your self-tanning experience.

Celebrate Mothers' Day with Bath & Body Works
For those of us in Britain, Mothers' Day has been and gone for the year. However, those of you with your mums living Stateside can win a truckload of goodies for them with Bath & Body Works. Submit a short story here, with a photograph or video, before May 10, in order to have a crack at a shopping spree worth up to $1000. Go forth - you have nothing to lose :)

A clear conscience AND clear skin? SCORE.
Adding to the arsenal of acne treatments is Sensiclear, which has just launched its newest range, which contains the strongest ingredient for fighting acne that is available without prescription (the patented Retextra). It does not contain benzoyl peroxide, is not tested on animals, and starts at $30 from www.sensiclear.com.


Stay in style with InStyle and Nails Inc
In celebration of the nail bar's 10th birthday, Nails Inc has created three bespoke nail colours for InStyle magazine, which will be given away with their June issue (one per magazine), in shades Berry, Nude, and Coral. Each is worth £10.50 and is sure to be of the same high standard as Nails Inc's usual stock. Funnily enough, despite being a 'June' issue, it's out today (April 30).

Sources
www.fragrantica.com
Fashion Monitor Daily
www.highbeam.com
http://uk-beauty.glam.com
www.sustainableyouthproducts.com
www.splendora.com
www.mariannewmannails.com
www.prnewswire.com
http://legseleven7.blogspot.com
Tractenberg

Lloydspharmacy YOUR Organics Anti-Ageing Night Cream 2 in 1

RRP: £4.99 for 50ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Combining Vitamin E to help fight the signs of ageing with a night cream, YOUR Organics Anti-Ageing Night Cream 2 in 1 moisturises you while you sleep to help decrease skin roughness and reduce the look of facial lines and wrinkles."

--Packaging--
Clearly in keeping with all the others in the range in terms of the colour scheme, but I reckon this has the best packaging of the lot - loving the Nuxe-style pot. While perhaps not the most practical of things, it is certainly the king of the crop.

--Application--
Massage liberally into face and neck every night after cleansing and toning.

--Scent--
While certainly a calm scent, you do get a whiff of the pomegranate in there, as is common across most of the range.

--Appearance--
A thick, creamy, pale yellow substance. Just gorgeous. On the face there is no visible residue after use.

--Texture/consistency--
Not greasy, and very smooth with no lumps. It is thick and indulgent, but massages into the skin easily.

--Long-term effects--
It's difficult to tell how it feels on the skin since you're sleeping while it works. With continued use, skin feels healthy, and as an acne sufferer who had never previously used a night cream because of this, I am a complete convert. My skin seems calmer (though not perfect yet!) and it seems that it's definitely a myth about night creams only being for drier or older skins.

--Value for money--
This, to my mind, is a brilliant night cream that helps to calm troubled skin. Used in conjunction with the equally laudable Eye and Lip Lift, I reckon Lloyds are onto a winner with this.

perfect partners
Replenishing Face Day Cream, £4.99
Eye and Lip Lift, £4.99

Lloydspharmacy YOUR Organics Replenishing Face Day Cream

RRP: £4.99 for 50ml

--What does the promo say?--
"A recent study has shown that pomegranate can stimulate the production of collagen, resulting in a mild thickening of the epidermis and dermis of the skin. It also helps prevent the breakdown of collagen fibres which can slow the signs of ageing. Containing SPF 15 the Replenishing Day Cream contains everything you need to face the outside world with the confidence that your skin is well prepared and protected."

--Packaging--
A pump action white and turquoise bottle with a clear see-through lid. Very portable - be assured that customs won't frown on you at the airport with this.

--Application--
Apply liberally to face and neck in the morning after cleansing and toning.

--Scent--
The pomegranate smell really comes through nicely, but it shouldn't interfere with any perfume you're using.

--Appearance--
A white, slightly runny cream/lotion.

--Texture/consistency--
As stated above, perhaps a little too runny, but not to the extent that it slides down your face before you have a chance to rub it in. It absorbs well, too.

--How does your skin feel afterwards?--
Honestly? Not that much different. If you're looking for a wow-factor then you won't get it - but it is very light and therefore good for summer as it definitely doesn't make your skin feel bogged down.

--Effects over time--
While that uber-smoothness is never really achieved, dry patches are combated adequately and face is kept feeling plumped and well.

--Value for money--
Spend your fiver on the wondrous Eye and Lip Lift or night cream from this range instead, and for your moisturiser go to Garnier or Liz Earle.

perfect partners
Anti-Ageing Night Cream 2 in 1, £4.99
Gentle Cleansing Foam, £3.99

Rimmel Sexy Curves

RRP: £7.82

--What does the promo say?--
"Lash plumping, full curve mascara. Fuller figured brush - fuller figured lashes. Curves in all the right places! The first Triple Plump brush with 3 x the curves for 70% curlier lashes. Voluptuous brush with CurveControl technology wiggles easily through your lashes, quickly coating them. Exclusive brush design curves IN to maximize lash loading, curves OUT to curl and de-clump each lash for a complete curved look. Lashes look lusciously curled, plumped and defined. Plump 'em up! Enriched with proteins, the plumping formula strengthens lashes over time for a continuous lash boosting effect. Rich cream texture instantly amplifies your natural volume x 7 and fixes the curl for 12 hour hold for fabulously fuller lashes."

--Packaging--
Love this - it just leaps off the shelf. The only other brand to do something as daring with their mascara packaging (at least semi-)recently was Maybelline, with their lime-green packaging for their Define-A-Lash and their yellow for the Colossal Volum'Express. The brush for Sexy Curves is rubber, as has been increasingly popular over the past few years, and is an incredibly unusual shape, with the brush curving in and out repeatedly.

--Application--
Proceed as with a normal mascara - carefully stroke the wand through your lashes.

--Appearance--
The curving effect is minimal, but definitely visible. What I was most impressed by, however, was the way in which the mascara separates lashes so well, providing a smooth and unclumped look. It's a shame it's only available in one shade, though (for the moment at least).

--Texture/consistency--
An incredibly smooth formula that doesn't collect too thickly (on the brush or on the lashes). It's of excellent quality - not just for the general range of the RRP but on a wider scale too.

--Ease of removal--
Also excellent - no problems here.

--Value for money--
Easily the best mascara I've used this year, beating higher-end competitors hands down. Nice work.

Dove Hair Minimising Deodorant

RRP: £2.99
# of scents available: 3 (Silk Lily [exclusively at Tesco's], Wild Rose, Nature Fresh)

--What does the promo say?--
"Dove HairMinimising is a brand new range of antiperspirant products which gradually minimise the look and feel of underarm hair. They also care for delicate skin with Dove ¼ moisturising cream and provide the 24-hour antiperspirant protection women expect from Dove. Each Dove HairMinimising antiperspirant is designed to leave underarms looking and feeling smoother and hair-free for longer. Plus hair re-growth will feel softer, finer and may be easier to remove as a result."

--Packaging--
A very pleasing pale metallised pink colour (I reviewed the Wild Rose variant), and while the package does look a bit phallic (sorry, but it does!), it is easy to use and looks good in the bathroom too. The whole look is very understated and modern.
However, all it tells you is that the 'ProEpil complex' will help to thin and then minimise the hair, without any explanation as to what is in this complex or how it works (even the FAQs on the Dove Hair Minimising Deodorant microsite don't answer this).

--Application--
In the case of the roll-on, hold 15cm from the underarm and spray. I don't really like how it seems to leave a good amount of white dust around the place as the deodorant dries, but I've never really been a fan of spray deodorants anyway and since this also comes in a roll-on I'm prepared to forgive Dove for this.

--Scent--
Definitely correlates with what's advertised, and is certainly a very pleasant, not overbearing smell. Not frumpy; feminine, clean, and refreshing.

--How does your skin feel afterwards?--
Smooth and moisturised, as you would expect from Dove. No problems here.

--Does it stop perspiration and body odour?--
While there are no unpleasant smells, as soon as this deodorant is even shown something resembling heat (say, 15°C) you'll be left wriggling at the damp patches that quickly appear under your arms. As a hyperhydrosis sufferer I knew I wasn't exactly a normal case and so passed a can of this onto my normal sister as a control subject. Sadly there was the same result (and we don't even use the same deodorant normally - I'm a Mitchum girl while she's a Palmolive customer).

--Does it do what it says it will, & ultimately retard hair growth?--
My sister and I have both been using this for over a month, and have seen little or no difference (for the record, she's olive-skinned with light brown hair, and I'm pale and blonde, but with darker body hair). However, as my sister correctly points out, women in Western cultures are so obsessed by the appearance of body hair that they will go for a shave or a wax as soon as almost *anything* is visible, so even if this deodorant does thin the underarm hair, that probably won't make much of a difference to the way women perceive it, particularly if like me they already have quite dark body hair to begin with.

--Value for money--
My usual deodorant is already quite expensive at £2.79 for a 100ml roll-on (which rises by almost 50p if you go for the trendy solid version). My sister's choice of Palmolive is cheaper than both Dove and Mitchum, at £2.65 for 250ml or £1.89 for 150ml, which indicates that £2.99 is perhaps a little steep for something that's not hugely effective. Perhaps try it once for the gimmick (and there's even a discount coupon here for you), and then go back to your normal deodorant. It is certainly an interesting product which, if Dove can develop it further and be a little more transparent about the science of it all, might be something to keep an eye on and see about again in the future if it improves.

Lloydspharmacy YOUR Organics Replenishing Face Mask

RRP: £3.99 for 50ml

--What does the promo say?--
"With organic shea butter the Regenerating Face Mask is both calming and moisturising. Used once a week as a relaxing mask, YOUR Organics Face Mask is an essential part of your skincare routine to help rehydrate your skin and counter the effects of sun, wind, heat, cold and air conditioning."

--Packaging--
As with the entire range, the design on the bottle is teal and white with a white etching of a leaf. The tube is plastic and stands up on its base lid. Easy enough to use, and the lid closes sturdily too.

--Application--
Spread a liberal amount onto your face using your fingers. Relax for 10 minutes, and then rinse off with warm water, or rub excess into skin as desired.

--Scent--
Having (oh-so-briefly, once) used Lush's Cosmetic Warrior face mask, I know how important it is for a face mask to smell good. Thankfully, this one does: you get a sweet, buttery, dessert-type smell from this mask. Delicious!

--Appearance--
A pale yellow lotion with a slight sheen to it.

--Texture/consistency--
Pretty much perfect: not too runny or stiff. It also absorbs incredibly well (I was quite surprised by the rate of absorption during use).

--How does your skin feel afterwards?--
Skin definitely feels cleaner and smoother; however, there wasn't the same mattifying effect as there often is with other masks, and I just didn't get the wow-factor smoothness that higher-end brands deliver (though at this price, this is perhaps to be expected).

--Value for money--
This is not a bad starter face mask for people who don't normally include this as part of their skincare routine: it's easy to use, affordable, delivers on the calming and moisturising promise, smells nice, and is travel-friendly too. However, if you want to splash out a bit more, I'd still recommend going for Liz Earle's version (her Intensive Moisturising Treatment) for that x-factor smoothness.

perfect partners
Nourishing Body Cream, £3.99 for 150ml
Invigorating Body Exfoliator, £4.99 for 150ml

Lloydspharmacy YOUR Organics Eye and Lip Lift

RRP: £4.99 for 15ml
Retails at: Lloydspharmacy branches across the UK, and at www.lloydspharmacy.com

--About the brand--
Lloydspharmacy is one of Britain's leading pharmacy chains, with over 1700 branches across the UK. As well as dispensing more than 145 million prescription items annually, the company sells at home treatments, makeup, face and body care.

--What does the promo say?--
"The star of the YOUR Organics line-up, the Eye & Lip Lift, contains organic camomile to give eyes and lips an instant boost. Camomile has been used for centuries for its calming effects on skin and research has identified camomile's specific anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, making it a hero product in skincare. Use with your existing skincare regime."

--Packaging--
Given the emphasis of this line on the use of pomegranate, shea and rosewater (though not so specifically in this product), I would have expected a bigger deal to be made of this on the packaging, perhaps with a vibrant image of pomegranate seeds or with the calming pink of rosewater. Instead, what we get is a slightly insipid light blue scheme across the range. Still, never mind: the pump mechanism for this product is effective, sturdy, and easily controllable, and I'd have no qualms about taking it on my travels.

--Application--
Smooth around the eye contour area, and vertically alongside your lips (extending down from your nose, where lines first begin to appear). Rub in until fully absorbed; apply morning and night.

--Scent--
The camomile does not come across strongly, but this is no bad thing: we get a calm, neutral and fresh smell that doesn't come across as being at all chemical.

--Texture/consistency--
A stiff cream that turns slightly water-like immediately on contact with the skin. Rubs in excellently.

--Appearance--
White, but turns transparent when rubbed into the skin.

--Does it do what it says it will?--
It goes 50% of the way: as with all eye creams, I did not notice any difference whatsoever on the fine lines under my eyes. However, I was very impressed by how it targeted the fine lines that were beginning to appear around the lip area and sent them packing. I will definitely continue to use this as a lip cream as it delivers visible results in just a couple of weeks.

--Value for money--
As a lip cream, this is really excellent, delivering noticeable results quickly and cheaply. However, it doesn't really cut it as a multi-use product, with no improvement around the eye area. I'd recommend purchasing this as a lip cream alone, and continuing on your quest for the perfect eye cream elsewhere.

perfect partners
Soothing Cleansing Milk, £3.99 for 200ml
Invigorating Face Exfoliator, £3.99 for 50ml

Lancôme Ôscillation

RRP: £23/$34/€35
# of shades available: 3 + a waterproof version (black only)

--What does the promo say?--
"The first vibrating Powermascara by Lancôme: 7000 oscillations per minute. Press the button and experience a breakthrough sensation in application. In one easy new gesture, let the vibrating brush combined with an exquisitely smooth formula wrap every lash up to 360°. Instantly see a fascinating gaze: lashes appear ultimately extended, remarkably separated, and virtually multiplied in number."

--Packaging--
This is understandably a little heavier than most mascaras thanks to the motor battery system inside it. However, the weight is not prohibitive and it feels very ergonomically satisfying in the hand. The black shiny case is straight up and down with a subtle matte black button and a gold band for decoration. The button is very sensitive - you don't need to press very hard to set the vibration going, and the second you take your finger/thumb off the button, it stops. Surprisingly user-friendly.

--Application--
Just press the button gently and slowly stroke the wand through your lashes. Perhaps the only obvious proviso as opposed to other mascaras is the precaution that you shouldn't use this while on the move (e.g. while using public transport), but otherwise there's nothing different regarding the use of this mascara.

--Appearance--
While the colour is fabulous and delivers a definite wow-factor (it's also available in gun metal as well as the more conventional brown), there are definitely clumps, with the lashes not really separating properly. Nevertheless, this is pretty good if you like the babydoll look.

--Texture/consistency--
Smooth, and yet quite thick with it. It also seems very wet/creamy in its formula, which can make it difficult to apply (see the above comment about clumps). The brush tends to pick up too much of it thanks to the formula's thickness, which leads me to believe it may be easier to use once the mascara is a little more dried out/older.

--Longevity--
Perhaps due to the thickness of this mascara, this seems to take a long time to dry, and consequently there are smudges at the outset. However, once it's on and dry, it definitely lasts all day (and I'm not even talking about the waterproof version here).

--Value for money--
The price of this is obviously pushed up by the vibrating wand technology, and to be honest I just wasn't that impressed by the whole thing. While it's easy enough to use, and has encouraging staying power and great colour, it didn't really separate my lashes that well, and for this price I would pick one of Givenchy's or Versace's mascaras.

perfect partners
Cils Booster XL, $21.50/£18/€26.50
Bi-Facil Eye Makeup Remover, $26/£18.50/€27.20

Kiehl's Lip Balm #1

RRP: from $6.50/£7/€10
also available in a scented version and as a World Aids Day limited edition

--What does the promo say?--
"Relieves cracked or chapped lips with cotton seed oil and protects them with SPF4 sunscreen. Not tested on animals."

--Packaging--
Finally a Kiehl's package which is travel friendly and not useless! The Kiehl's bottles are notorious for their brittleness and general breakability, but this is a sturdy, no-nonsense white plastic tube with black writing and screw-top lid. All very unisex. The only weakness is the fact that the nozzle is not tapered in any way, meaning that it can be a little rough when dragged over the lips.

--Application--
Just squeeze the tube a little to bring some of the balm to the surface of the nozzle. Rub onto lips, either using your fingers or directly from the nozzle, and you're good to go.

--Scent--
None.

--Appearance--
This is officially the love child of a high octane gloss and a high quality lip balm. Doesn't have any of the usual lip balm opacity or matte appearance, delivering instead a lip-gloss style shine (perhaps not so good if you happen to be male). The balm itself is clear/transparent.

--Texture/consistency--
Soft, smooth and not at all runny or sticky. A class act all the way.

--Does it do what it says it will?--
Incredibly, this is probably the most modest promotional statement I've ever seen on a product. What it doesn't tell you is that this is like the Atrixo of lip care; in other words, nothing short of a miracle. I had slightly chapped and painful dry lips which my Body Shop lip balm was just refusing to sort and which I didn't much fancy taking the Lipscuff to. Two applications of this stuff later, I had totally smooth, non-chapped, non-painful lips again. This condition was maintained even without further applications.

--Value for money--
Need I say more? This is an essential part of any man or woman's essential extreme seasons kit, along with Atrixo's hand cream and Liz Earle's Intensive Moisturiser. To the shops, people!

perfect partners
Ultimate Strength Hand Salve, from $12.50/£11.99/€16
Superbly Efficient Anti-perspirant Deodorant, from $11.50/£10.25/€15

Cosmetics Contemplations: The Purpose of Makeup

Women have long used makeup as a form of decoration, with the use of it documented as far back as ancient times with the Greeks, Romans and Egyptians. It is possible that it also had a practical use in these hot climates, to protect the lips and hair from sun damage, and eye makeup was also believed to have the mythical quality of being able to ward off evil spirits. The original multi-use product, perhaps?! In any case, we have a distinction between something designed to alter your appearance (e.g. eyeshadow) and something designed to care for it (e.g. lip balm). But what of the stuff's origins? What was it originally used for?


It is well documented that some ancient makeup contained noxious substances, such as lead and mercury. However, cosmetics (using the term loosely) also had practical properties: perfumes and incense were used medicinally, as well as religiously for activities such as meditation (incense is still used today in High Church services). In China the colours used could represent social class, and this was also true of European women in the Renaissance (even today, the idea of skin lightening is still popular in China for sociological reasons). But how much relevance does this have today? These explanations for the usage of makeup and cosmetics are perhaps only marginal, with the main reason that people wear makeup being solely to look pretty.

And it is this idea of enhancing or altering one's appearance that leads back to the original question: what is the purpose of makeup, and what does 'looking pretty' actually mean? Is the purpose of makeup to maintain as natural a look as possible, or to make a bold statement? The early rise of makeup was highly influenced by film and theatre stars, who would have worn bold makeup in order to show their faces better on screen or in a large arena (where the Ancient Greek actors of the amphitheatres would have used masks), but this was more to exaggerate their natural features than to create a falsified image. Certainly makeup in the 1920s seemed to emphasise the enhancement of women's natural features, with metal mouth shapers being available alongside lipstick in order for women to best accentuate their lips, and with natural lip glosses also being very popular. Skin tone continued to serve as an indicator of social class, whether conscious or subconscious, when people viewed Coco Chanel's tanned skin as something to aspire to.

Certainly getting the right skin tone is very important for something to look natural; we have all sniggered, or at least looked strangely at, someone whose fake tan has gone wrong, someone who has chosen a disastrous shade of foundation for their skin, and followers of the gothic trend who insist on painting their faces in precisely the shade of death. However, while the former cases are clearly mistakes, one suspects that in the latter case, looking natural is not the aim anyway. But why? Is looking unnatural intended to scare, shock, turn heads, look 'individual', look like part of a pack, or something else? The goths certainly aren't the first to do it - the Elizabethans dyed their faces with white lead for social reasons, and don't even get me started on the punk and glam rock trends of the 1970s.
You can today buy makeup in just about every colour imaginable. This is clearly a successful strategy from the makeup companies: if nobody bought it, they wouldn't be able to continue selling it. L'Oreal's personalisation strategy has done extremely well in recent years, allowing makeup aficionados to select the right eye and lip colours for their skin tone, hair colour and eye colour. And yet alongside this we have glittery eyeliners, mascaras that come in blue and purple as well as black and brown, and colour-changing lipsticks (which also come in an almost infinite array of colours to begin with). So what makes us turn (whether from time to time, or always) away from a more sophisticated look of mere enhancement, designed to perfectly blend with the tones and colours our bodies have been given, to something clearly designed to alter our appearance altogether? Why do I own purple and green lip glosses alongside my natural-coloured lipsticks, and glittery eyeshadows alongside subtler and more matte colours?

I have already mentioned the desire for individuality, and this dazzling array of colours allows anyone to experiment and turn their own body into a work of art. It perhaps also springs from a general human desire for fun and variety, as well as, of course, the vicissitudes and fluctuations present in people's personalities - people don't always want to look the same every day, and just as people want to be able to have fun choosing different clothes and shoes, they want to be able to choose different makeup. Why not set off a purple dress with a purple lip gloss? Why not indeed. Certainly both of these trends (enhancement vs. alteration) are reflected frequently on the catwalk, indicating that everyone is simply following their own whims and needs. Environment is also to be considered; you might not wear Amy Winehouse-style eyeliner to work (depending, of course, what your job is), but cast aside such hesitations when preparing for a night out with friends.

It becomes clear, then, that makeup's principal purpose is to decorate, with care for your body (with products such as sunscreen) being secondary to this. And with decoration comes some sort of targeted choice, whereby the wearer wants to convey a certain impression, whether they are going for a job interview or attending a party. As we have seen from the goths and punks, this doesn't even necessarily mean matching your skin tone to what you've been given, though in most circumstances it may be advisable to do so. Makeup can be messy, fussy, time-consuming and expensive, but it allows people to express themselves, whether this is through a nude lipstick or a kohled-up eyelid, and this is a freedom that people value very highly.

Dior Addict Ultra Gloss Reflect

RRP: $25.50/€22,80/£16.50
# of shades available: 14

--What does the promo say?--
"An ultra-shimmering reformulation of Dior's cult-favorite, Dior Addict lip gloss. Lips go high-tech with shimmering, multi-dimensional reflective pigments that deliver mega-watt shine and color that lasts for hours. The innovative, "water-like" formula goes on smooth and fast with a silky brush applicator that keeps you in perfect control."

--Packaging--
A very sleek, glamorous affair, with the canister of gloss suspended inside a transparent, larger, square container. The lid is square and silvery, with a rounded decoration on top that bears the Christian Dior initials. The word 'Dior' is also subtly visible on one side of the container in raised letters. Disappointingly, the whole lot is made of plastic, but this somewhat obviously makes it more travel-friendly, and most glosses, even the high-end ones, come in plastic these days.

--Application--
Just as the promo says; the brush is small and smooth, allowing for very precise application, and the whole thing runs very smoothly. One coat is OK, but feel free to add more to make one application last longer.

--Scent--
None.

--Appearance--
Really shimmery, pretty and yet somehow still natural. With the gloss available in various shades of pink and brown, there is bound to be something to suit everyone, from the darkest Carribean skin tone to the lightest alabaster.

--Texture/consistency--
Very light - as they say, it's almost like water. Smooth, refreshing, and not at all sticky.

--Longevity--
This is the only part of the promotional material that lies. This cannot stand up to eating, kissing, or even doing nothing. Useless. Be prepared to reapply often (although perhaps applying multiple layers at a time may help to combat this, it ultimately won't help the tube to last any longer).

--Value for money--
Very interesting, especially if you shop in the UK and normally use the euro, particularly since the lowering of VAT there recently. There are certainly a few weaknesses - the poor tenure of it, for instance, and the lack of any vitamins and SPF - but if you want to buy into a high-end brand for a good price, this is definitely a good way to start.

perfect partners
Dior Lip Maximiser, $29.50/€27,70/£19
Dior Skinflash Radiance Booster Pen, $34/€30,90/£22

Agnès B La Palette

# of shades available: 4
(Jeu de Lumière, mauve passion/night blue/galaxy blue/light beige, ref. 759001;
Black & White, black/white/satin grey/sepia, 756106;
Effets Spéciaux, silver/rose pink/chestnut brown/lilac, 715706;
Métaux Précieux, golden yellow/silver/rose gold/copper, 731604)

Retails at the Club Créateurs de Beauté; ring 0990 901090 for UK mail order

--What does the promo say?--
"Use the colours alone, or mix as you desire. Complete with a mirror and double-ended applicator, take this chic box everywhere with you."

--Packaging--
The box definitely has it all; nicely laid-out eyeshadows, a generously sized mirror, a durable double-ended applicator, and magnetic closure, not to mention the excellent drawings and photography used on the boxes' lids.

--Application--
Versatile application is permitted, with the colours in all palettes looking good whether they are used alone or mixed with other colours. To use three or four colours at a time, apply the lightest colour as far as your brow bone, then the second lightest as far as the eyelid crease, then use the darkest colour/s to line. To just use one colour, apply along the lash line and then blend upwards.

--Appearance--
By and large, the colour combinations work very well together, though I find the fuschia in the Jeu de Lumière palette slightly at odds with the general scheme (a gold colour may have worked better). All the palettes should work well with just about any complexion, hair and eye colour, though I do like the Effets Spéciaux palette with my pale skin, hair and eyes. There is a slight shimmer to the latter palette, but not so much with the former. I would imagine that Black & White doesn't have much shimmer, but that Métaux Précieux would.

--Texture/consistency--
Seems quite finely pigmented, and glides over the eyelids well.

--Longevity--
Strangely, this seems very inconsistent between palettes. The Effets Spéciaux one lasts excellently, though there is a little creasing, and while the colours in the Jeu de Lumière palette are very nice, they fade quickly and the overall effect is disappointing. In all cases, however, one palette seems to last a very long time, even when being used most days.

--Value for money--
At €25 I'd consider this fairly expensive, even from such a high-profile brand. Despite the nice packaging and colours available, you can probably get generally better quality, consistency and range of colours from MAC or Prescriptives, even if this is without the same convenience.

perfect partners
Agnès B Mascara Haute Déf, €18,90
Agnès B Liner Métallic, €9,90

Molton Brown GentleCleanse Eye Makeup Remover

RRP: $18 for 100ml
available at: Molton Brown stores; www.beautyrose.com

--What does the promo say?--
"This light, plant-based formula gently and effectively removes all traces of make-up (including waterproof mascara) from the sensitive eye area. Birch tree extracts and apple pip amino acids deep cleanse the skin and lashes, leaving the area calm and conditioned."

--Packaging--
In Molton Brown's usual style: a respectable, vintage-style pharmacy bottle with a logo in copperplate capitals and a chunky silver-effect lid. The bottle is promising and well-rounded in transparent plastic. However, the open top once you've taken off the lid can lead to wastage and leads to worries about travel.

--Application--
"Apply fluid to cotton pad; place over the closed eye area and leave for a few seconds before sweeping in an outward motion to remove makeup", advises the box. However, there are a few problems with this: firstly, as mentioned, the open top can lead to problems (there is no protective plastic disc with a hole in it), and secondly, the slightly oily nature of the product means that it sinks into the cotton pad too much, and that it therefore won't transfer from the cotton pad to the skin well. You are better off using your bare hands, or using a flannel or muslin cloth. It is also important to shake the product well before using as the liquid separates when left to stand.

--Appearance--
The liquid is mostly clear, with a white residue that rises to the surface when left to stand. When shaken up, white bubbles appear in the liquid. On the face, no visible residue is left.

--Scent--
None.

--Texture/consistency--
Slightly oily, but not prohibitively so. Mostly just like water.

--How does your skin feel afterwards?--
Soft and well-cared for, particularly around the eye area. There is also no stinging or unpleasant sensations at all when removing eye makeup, or in the aftermath of doing so, meaning this would be excellent for sensitive skin.

--Does it do what it says it will?--
It removes eye makeup very well, and definitely calms and conditions the eye area, meaning Molton Brown have basically fulfilled their brief. However, it is not really good for removing heavier makeup (namely foundation etc) and contrary to advice given to me by Molton Brown staff, I have not found that it works tremendously well as a general cleanser (my skin condition may have even worsened during the use of this product).

--Value for money--
It's not a bad price, and it gets even better if you buy in a pack (I bought mine for £30 in the same pack as a toner and moisturiser). It works extremely well as an eye makeup remover, and if you have especially sensitive skin you should probably get this. However, if you're looking for a cleanser and makeup remover in one, you should try something else, and I for one will be glad when mine runs out so that I can move on to better things.

perfect partners
Skinbalance Toning Lotion, $32 for 200ml
Active Defence City Day Hydrator, $50 for 40ml

Thierry Mugler Teint Onctueux

RRP: €41,70 for 30ml
# of shades available: 6

--What does the promo say?--
"Ultra comfortable, Thierry Mugler's Teint Onctueux glides onto your skin thanks to its unrivalled mousse texture. With the sensation of whipped cream, and a perfect matte finish, it combines the pleasure of application with silky complexion in one move."

--Packaging--
A chunky, angular glass pot that fits in very well with Mugler's general concept. Might be a bit heavy to travel with, though.

--Application--
Using your preferred tool of application (brush, fingers or sponge), gently stroke onto face and blend. No problems here.

--Texture/consistency--
It certainly fulfills the brief; it is a lovely, light mousse. However, I wouldn't call it 'unique', as they do in their publicity material - there are plenty of mousse foundations on the market, albeit with varying degrees of quality.

--Appearance--
I didn't find that this detracted from my blemishes too well, even though it blended nicely. It provided a good base, anyway, and you could go without powder easily if you wanted to.

--How does your skin feel afterwards?--
Certainly very smooth and moisturised, but this can also be found in other mousse foundations (and indeed even in non-mousse foundations).

--Longevity--
It doesn't slide off or rub off throughout the day, and keeps face shine-free. Good times.

--Value for money--
Far far too expensive for what is essentially an upmarket version of Max Factor's Colour Adapt - I personally couldn't see any difference and advise you to save a few bob and buy that instead.

perfect partner
Perfect Face concealer, €49,60

Too Faced Candy Bars

RRP: $25/€22/£17
Retails at: Sephora, www.toofaced.com, ASOS, HQHair, Debenhams, Boots, House of Fraser
# of shades available: at least 3, but this seems to depend on country + stockist

--What does the promo say?--
"These glimmering bars of candy colors are created using four complimentary shades of sugary shimmers that can be used individually as eye shadows or combined together as an all over illuminating face and body blinger! Candy bars have never been more decadent!"

--Packaging--
Too Faced is probably Benefit's nearest rival in terms of kitschy, leap-off-the-shelf packaging, and this is no exception, combining a girly pink box with a funky shiny black case, all of course topped off by their characteristic swirly vintage script. Utterly vintage with a twist of modernity. The case itself is a bit big, though, giving the impression that you get more product than there actually is, and while you get a decently-sized mirror, no brushes are included (although this is less problematic than it sounds - see below).

--Application--
No brushes are included, but fear not, as this applies very well indeed with your fingers when you have no brushes to hand (although I have one of the lighter compacts - Tropical Truffle - so don't know how you'd get on with finger application if you had one of the darker palettes). Just smear onto your eyelids in any combination you choose - the choice of colours seems to adapt well to any manipulation, whether you choose to use all four colours at once or fly solo. To apply as a shimmer brick, just use an ordinary big powder brush.

--Appearance--
On the eyelids this works fabulously, responding well to all kinds of mixes of colour and suiting any complexion. It's subtle enough for day, yet shimmery enough for night. As a shimmer brick, however, a different story is told: there's not enough glitter/shimmer for this to have nearly enough impact on the décolletage and the darker shades just lend a muddy look - a shame.

--Texture/consistency--
When used as a shimmer brick with a brush, this is disastrous - shadow flakes everywhere and can lead to wastage. However, when applied using an eyeshadow brush or fingers to your eyelids, it glides on with ease and there is no wastage at all.

--Longevity--
On the eyelids it is just fabulous - can't remember the last time I had an eyeshadow that was of such high quality (it probably came from MAC or Prescriptives). Doesn't crease at all. Not even my Agnès B shadows, which cost €3 more, can quite compare to this in terms of staying power.

--Value for money--
I got mine in the sales, so all the better. However, for even further value for money, cash in on the highly attractive British exchange rate (if you usually operate in euros at least!). Even if you pay full whack for this, you're getting a really good product, despite its shortcomings and general multi-use failure - even if this wasn't advertised as a Bobbi-Brown knockoff, I'd still pay the full RRP for its excellent performance as an eyeshadow quad alone.

perfect partners
Liquif-Eye, $17.50/€15/£10
Shadow Insurance Eyelid Primer, $17/€14/£11

Lancôme Laque Fever

RRP: £17
# of colours available: 4

--What does the promo say?--
"Excellent definition of contours. Ultra-polished and even colour. Shine and intensity, maximized colour."

--Packaging--
Silvery, retro and jetsetting, complete with a band of fuschia pink and the matte Lancôme flower logo. The applicator is a little difficult to pull out from the tube, as the plastic 'sponge' is quite large and petal-shaped, but there's no mess and no fuss. Looks young and modern.

--Application--
Apply one coat of the lip colour to your lips, carefully following your lips' natural lines. Blot with a tissue if necessary.

--Scent--
None - not even that usual slightly chemical or waxy scent you can get with lip products. SCORE.

--Texture/consistency--
The best way to describe it is like paint; it combines the liquid of a gloss, but without the viscosity, and the smooth waxiness of a lipstick without the solidness. There are no drips when you take the applicator from the tube. Sadly, on the lips, it can feel slightly sticky, though it is in no way drying (you may wish to use lip balm to combat the tackiness, though you would then lose the lip colour's matte appearance).

--Appearance--
The colour is surprisingly bold and yet somehow still natural-looking (while the range of colours seems surprisingly limited, one of these will suit just about everyone). Blotting works well, however, if you feel it is too bold or that you will look washed out if you have paler skin. The finished look is totally matte with no shimmer or shine, but it unifies the face, draws attention to the lips, and looks great with a subtle shadow, a simple blush, and a wow-factor mascara.

--Longevity--
Excellent - withstands eating and drinking without feathering. Only two applications needed per day (perhaps even just one if you don't do like me and over-blot on the first go).

--Value for money--
The tackiness is the only disappointing thing about this lip colour. The colour range is great in terms of there being something for everyone, the colour itself is long-lasting, and the product is generally of a high quality (and all just for £4 more than a Benefit lip gloss). Good work.

perfect partners
Lancôme Le Vernis Nail Colour in Piha Black, £14
Lancôme Pink Punk & Black Eyeshadow Palette, £30.50
Lancôme Color Fever Gloss in Piha Black, £17

Lancôme Génifique

RRP: £52; €74; $78 (30ml)

--What does the promo say?--
"The secret of youthful skin revealed, drop by drop. Beautiful skin for every woman at every age. Instantly, skin feels silky soft, smooth and supple. Drop by drop, day and night, skin appears breathtakingly beautiful, radiant, even-toned and more refined. Skin looks noticeably younger, as if infused with life."

--Packaging--
My mother (the 'control tester', if you like, for this product's target age group) and I both agreed that while the bottle looked nice (although difficult to see through the shaded bottle how much of the serum remains), it was heavy (being made of glass) and that the dropper was somewhat difficult to use as it lacked the controlled pre-measure of a pump applicator. The lid and dropper does look very space-age, modern and James Bond-ish though.

--Application--
Lancôme says to apply as a 'step zero' to your skincare routine, though I wouldn't say this is entirely accurate, as if you apply it before your cleanser and toner you'll just be washing it off (which at this price is stupid)! Apply after toner, but before moisturiser. 2-3 drops is sufficient for the whole face, and it melts into the skin easily (perhaps a little too easily, almost drying before you have a chance to rub it in).

--Appearance--
Opaque, clear, and leaves no visible marks on the skin. Disappears totally, from which you can probably infer that your skin really needs it and just drinks it up.

--Scent--
While Lancôme claims this is scentless, my mother and I both found otherwise. The product does have a very pleasant but MILD scent (nevertheless, a scent). Does not interfere with perfume.

--Texture/consistency--
Very runny, though the dropper holds it well, meaning wastage is minimised. Rubs into the skin very well.

--Does it do what it says it will?--
While this isn't one of the listed results, it does provide a temporary minimising of pores when first applied. It also gives excellent smoothness and softness to the skin, both short-term and long-term. However, the reduction of wrinkles was barely detectable. According to my med-student sister, the science behind this is apparently also very plausible.

--Value for money--
With one bottle lasting 10-12 weeks, this is longer than the projection by Lancôme, and would mean £5.20 a week if it lasts 10 weeks, £4.30 a week if it lasts 12 weeks, and £3.50 a week if it lasts 15 weeks, which could be better, but definitely could be worse. Even if it doesn't quite deliver on the anti-wrinkle claim, it definitely brings home the bacon when it comes to restoring softness and smoothness and minimising of pores. Although honestly, at this price, I'd just stick to suncream, water, eating well and not smoking for the anti-ageing part, and with Garnier's trusty £11.99 serum for the moisturising part.