Cosmetics & Beauty News June 2009

Move into summer with spring
Green & Spring, that is. Say hello to Britain's newest body care brand. Featuring beautiful Warhol-style drawings of British birdlife on its bottles, it promises that its natural remedies are "rooted in the British countryside, inspired by the very best of our wild environment as nature intended". Sounds good to me - those bottles should leap right off the shelves with their distinctive packaging among bland after bland bottle designs. Featuring candles and gifts as well as lip balm, body lotion, shower gels and hand creams, essential oils are abundant and should prepare your body amply for a summer of sunshine. Purchase from http://greenandspring.com or from Liberty of London, as well as from a selection of hotels in Oxford, Paris and Gloucestershire.

Fragrance news
Many brands are unveiling new fragrances soon (some this summer, some a little later - remember, patience is a virtue!). Among them are Chanel, with BEIGE, named after Coco Chanel's favourite colour; Jo Malone's vanilla and anise fragrance, designed to evoke the moment that vanilla orchids bloom at daybreak in Madagascar (available from September); Dior, with Escale à Pondichéry (inspired by Pondicherry in India, and heavily fragranced with Assam tea, lemon, cardamom, bergamot, and other spices - £46 from July 6th); Lancome, with Hypnose Senses (contains notes of patchouli, rockrose labdanum, benzoin vanilla, tonka bean, osmanthus absolute, honey, pink peppercorns and mandarin essence); and Avon with In Bloom, fronted by Reese Witherspoon and available in November. See, boys, there's plenty for you to choose from...you have no excuse.

100 years of beauty
L'Oreal celebrates its centenary this year, and instead of holding a star-studded party in its honour, they have instead launched their '100 citizens project', which aims to equip people in local communities worldwide with the skills and resources they need to enter the beauty industry, such as hairdressing training in the Philippines, promoting science in Indonesia, and encouraging the professional placement of underprivileged youths in Portugal. As well as potentially creating jobs in the midst of a recession, such a project could also encourage self-esteem, provide a brighter future for those who were never given the chance to have one, and allow those who benefit to pass on the same values of hard work and opportunity to those around them. Nice work.

Minerals for men
Giorgio Armani has harnessed the power of volcanic minerals to create its new range for men. Consisting of just about everything from a shaving cream to a bronzer, there should be something here for all men, from the manliest to the most effeminate. The range claims to help strengthen skin structure, refine texture, and unify tone; the only thing it doesn't come with is a lock and key for the lads to keep this lovely stuff away from the girls.

Economise with Chiconomise
We beauty buffs need all the help we can get in these recessionary times in order to keep us going with a steady supply of makeup and various other beauty bits. Thankfully, there is help at hand. Chiconomise, a website created by Apprentice winner Michelle Dewberry, will make sure we never miss a good deal ever again, giving information on sales and discount vouchers. Current spotlighted deals include 10% off Benefit cosmetics, 50% off at Body Shop, and a saving of £7.45 on YSL Touche Eclat. Permission to say this is ingenious?

The things these kids will do...
A report recently conducted by Simple skincare reveals the frankly horrifying things that some young girls will resort to in the quest for perfect skin. A survey of 1000 teens aged 13-17 (300 boys and 700 girls) this May showed that the top five responses to the question 'what extreme measures have you taken to remedy spots and acne?' were vodka applied neat to the skin, applying a harsh cleanser and toner followed immediately by a sunbed session, freezing the area with an ice cube and then applying muscle relief cream Deep Heat, neat application of TCP to the affected area, and neat application of nail varnish remover to the affected area. Thankfully, its newly established Junior Board of Skincare Advisors, the youngest Board to date, is on hand to quash these myths and send girls on their way feeling a little happier and surer about how they can treat spots. Keep your eyes peeled and your ears open to see what the Junior Board can do to make a difference.

Get a tan before your hols - organically
Perhaps instead of sticking raw skin under sun lamps, the misinformed teenagers above should perhaps ask their parents very nicely for a summer treat at Gielly Green. Located in Marylebone, West London, the salon offers a full-body tanning treatment using organic cleansers, rich clay exfoliators, and rose-scented body lotions as well as the organic sandalwood-scented tanning lotion. Furthermore, if that's not personal enough, they also offer a bespoke spray tan, with a number of choices available from the tan shade to whether it's contaminant-free or quick-dry. Both treatments cost £65, so while a bit pricey, it sounds a hell of a lot better than possibly burning yourself on a sun bed.











Extracting beauty
Available from tomorrow (July 1st) at Boots is their new Boots Extracts range. The tagline, 'developed to make a difference', certainly seems to deliver - as well as promising soft lips and smooth skin with all kinds of lovely stuff like mango extract and rosehip seed oil, it's also Fairtrade, meaning that the products are ethically produced and help communities in developing countries. The range not only includes Body Shop-style body butters and lip balms, but also offers travel collections and gift sets.

Cosmetics Contemplations: Yes to Carrots, No To Parabens?

Yes To Carrots is just one of a number of ranges lately to either centre their range entirely on its lack of parabens (a commonly-used preservative in beauty products) or cite it as a major feature of its products. Launched in January 2008, Yes To Carrots promises its consumers paraben-free products "to ensure your products stay clean while ensuring your safety" by using alternative preservatives, and centring its range on the use of cucumber and tomato as well as carrots.

A quick consultation with our friend Google reveals hundreds of results when "paraben-free skincare" is typed in. Concern regarding parabens initially arose in 1998 following an American report from the Environmental Protection Agency stating that parabens demonstrated oestrogenic activity, which some have read to indicate that these chemicals could imitate hormones found in the human body and have an adverse effect on the endocrine system (system of glands that release hormones and regulate metabolism, growth, development, puberty and mood). However, this was further brought to public attention more recently when a separate report indicated that parabens had been found in breast cancer tissue. Since then, the market for paraben-free skincare and cosmetics has grown exponentially, which leaves companies that still use parabens in their products open to scrutiny.

Some companies have made no response to this and continued as normal. Other companies have continued using parabens, but have also issued statements by way of justification. Lush is one of these companies, who reply with the following:

"71% of Lush products do not contain preservatives because, whenever possible, we create formulas that do not require them. However, the remaining 29% of our products do require some preservatives to prevent the growth of bacteria. The most important thing is that our products are safe to use. Without a preservative some of our products would start to go off. Methyl and propyl paraben are used to control the growth of bacteria, yeasts and moulds. We use less than half the maximum permitted level to ensure the product is as mild as possible and the skin's natural micro flora is not affected. This low level of use also helps with the bio-degradability of our product and any waste material created during manufacture.

[These parabens] have a long history of safe use and are highly effective. [They] are some of the oldest of cosmetic preservatives and have been used since the 1920s. They are used globally and are permitted by every world health authority (500 independent safety studies have been carried out over the decades). They are considered safe because of their low toxicity and how our bodies process them when eaten in foods. They don’t accumulate or get stored in the body and are eliminated normally.

A combination of mis-interpretation and flawed studies has caused a lot of worry associated with the use of parabens in cosmetics. The main sound bite often quoted - “parabens were found in breast cancer tissue” - comes from a study that has been completely discredited by scientists. No causal link between parabens and cancer has been proven. You may also have heard that parabens show weak oestrogenic (oestrogen = female hormone) activity. This is true, but the effect is so weak that it is not significant. By comparison, whole grains, hops, soy beans and many other common foods show high oestrogenic activity.

Nevertheless, paraben scare-stories have spread via mass-emails, websites and the media, and several companies have started to sell their products by specifically promoting that they are “paraben-free”. The fact is that methyl paraben and propyl paraben are the safest cosmetic preservatives around – and using alternatives which may not have been proved to be safe or effective could be more dangerous than simply sticking to parabens. Many companies are promoting ‘paraben-free’ products as if this is a good thing. This demonstrates the danger of companies supporting unsubstantiated rumours. If a cosmetic product that contains water is declared to be ‘paraben-free’ it will contain another preservative.

If it doesn’t contain an effective, proven preservative it is dangerous in itself as it provides a breeding ground for bacteria. Some other formulas may also require the presence of preservatives. At Lush, all elements of the formulation process, including whether or not a preservative is required, are always carefully considered.

Our products are freshly made locally, which is something most cosmetics manufacturers can’t compete with. Our fresh face masks are made without preservatives in small batches and delivered direct to customers and shops – and they must be kept in the fridge and used within three weeks of making. These are the ideal cosmetic product for anyone concerned about preservatives! We use parabens only when necessary.We use them at the lowest possible levels, which is why our products won’t last for three years (the industry average), and why we put a use-by date on them. 71% of our products are unpreserved. For this, we are unique in the industry."

As is all-too-common in the fashion and beauty industry, consumers are therefore left (again) unsure about who or what they should believe. Mass-market brands such as L'Oréal and John Frieda continue to use parabens; natural brands like Liz Earle also continue to use them when necessary. The implication for many users, thanks to the ensuing media frenzy behind the 'parabens in breast cancer tissue' report, is that natural is good and that anything artificial is bad. As Lush points out, it's only common sense that preservatives should be required (and, indeed, many more can be found in food, even if you avoid ready-meals like the plague) so that products can remain safe. Plus, it is perhaps also obvious that not everything natural is good - while this does take things to the extreme, deadly nightshade and a bite from a puff adder are both perfectly natural but will also kill you.


It therefore stands to reason that this natural=good and artificial=bad dichotomy has to stop. Almost every week the media report that something new will give us cancer, whether it's coffee or parabens. Where did the old adage 'everything in moderation' go? Perhaps more worrying is the complacency that this will breed in people; many who have never smoked, are vegetarian and exercise regularly die young from various illnesses, while those who McDonald's and smoke their way to their graves get a telegram from the Queen. But I digress.

People therefore need to start choosing for themselves again in order to make distinctions between fake threats and real ones (perhaps unlike parabens, Yes To Carrots' next target, phthalates, have been linked in the past to birth defects, and can also contribute to allergies and diabetes as well as disrupting the endocrine system). Sites such as Cosmetics Cop are incredibly valuable in helping people to do this. Pseudo-science is often peddled in the news in order to manipulate the masses, sending them running from one point of view to another (particularly in the case of animal testing) when they have barely considered the true issue at hand. Or, as in this case, from one product to another. Obsessive label-reading is no bad thing; it's good to know what's in your products, even if only to check out the ingredients for allergy reasons. In fact, think on this: my father used to be allergic to carrots.

L'Oréal Studio Secrets Anti-Redness Primer

RRP: £9.99

--What does the promo say?--
"L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Anti-Redness Primer gives a uniform skin tone. All women can harness the power of these primers to create the illusion of a flawless complexion. It’s just a matter of obeying the laws of complementary colours. To neutralise a shade, simply apply its complementary shade. The green tinted primer reduces the appearance of red, giving the skin a more even tone."

--Packaging--
A very slim, travel-friendly pump-action bottle. L'Oréal have kept the packaging simple, both in terms of packaging and in terms of ease of use. The lid is secure and prevents leakage effectively; the bottle is also transparent, allowing you to always know how much primer remains. Professional-looking and lightweight.

--Application--
One is advised to apply L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Anti-Redness Primer in little dabs on red patches, and then tap with your fingertips to work it into the skin. No problems with this.

--Scent--
None.

--Texture/consistency--
Quite runny, but not to such an extent that wastage is a problem. Blends into skin more easily than its No7 rival.

--Appearance--
The lotion is a slightly-alarming-if-you're-not-used-to-it pale green, which leaves no residue or tide marks on the face while still calming skin tone and providing a smoother-looking base for makeup. Redness is toned, though not completely faded (but hey - let's not ask the impossible).

--Longevity--
Doesn't slide off, keeps makeup in place, and keeps redness toned down for most of the day. A generally solid performance.

--Value for money--
With the same RRP as No7's equivalent, and putting in as good a performance, it's difficult to tell which will fly off the shelves faster, although the Studio Secrets range has had far more publicity. The consistency is also a winner here, as is the extremely travel-friendly packaging, and its performance augurs well for the rest of the range.

Other available products
L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Anti Dull-Skin Primer, £9.99 (available in pink for light skin and purple for dark skin)
L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Anti-Shine Mattifying Primer, £9.99
L'Oréal Paris Studio Secrets Smoothing Resurfacing Primer, £11.99

Avène Gentle Purifying Scrub

RRP: £8.50/50ml from www.leguidesante.co.uk

--What does the promo say?--
"Avene's Gentle Exfoliating Scrub is specially formulated to cleanse sensitive skin in depth by gently eliminating all impurities. Avene's Gentle Purifying Scrub is very rich in Avene Thermal Spring water, and acts by releasing all the water's soothing and anti-irritant properties. The mild and gel-like texture prevents cutaneous dryness and leaves a pleasant feeling of comfort."

--Packaging--
Charmingly and fashionably decorated with a large coral swirl and simple coral writing. While this more evokes shells on a white tropical beach than springs in the heart of France, it is nevertheless pleasing to the eye and somehow still seems appropriate for the brand. The lid is a white stand-alone screw-top, decorated with a coral band.

--Application--
Squeeze out a pea-sized amount of the exfoliator onto the fingers and massage onto damp facial skin (either alone or mixed with your usual cleanser). Rinse off using a warm damp flannel.

--Appearance--
A clear gel with almost neon artificial beads in the same coral shade as on the tube and box. While Avène claims that these artificial beads have been selected for their durability, I have never understood why brands opt for these instead of natural exfoliants (such as shell, salt, or sugar) - not only are they harder to wash away from the face but they are also generally less effective. Apart from the occasional bead that you'll find on your skin even after washing off, there is no other visible residue after use.

--Scent--
None.

--Texture, consistency and sensation--
The gel is smooth, mild, cooling and non-greasy. The beads are palpable, but they too are very mild and don't seem to exert any significant effects on the skin. The gel is a little runny, but nothing too serious.

--Effects over time--
Skin is minimally smoothened in the immediate time after use, but some dry patches still remain. Annoyingly, there appear to be no positive effects over time either - dry patches continue to recur and remain on the skin over weeks.

--Value for money--
While this isn't the most expensive stuff in the world at under a tenner, I was still disappointed. With all that natural stuff in the exfoliator, even despite the artificial exfoliating beads, I really expected more from Avène, which appears to be quite well-known and well-respected in France. In fact, it's just turned out to be the most useless exfoliator I've ever used, which is a bit of a shame.
However, I won't be writing Avène off completely - I have a tube of their cold cream for lips which is fantastic (review forthcoming). It does occasionally happen with some brands that they veer from the amazingly good to the amazingly rubbish in the space of a few products - even if the exfoliator did not make a brilliant first impression for me as a first-time user of the brand, I'm willing to accept that this might be the case with Avène.

perfect partners
Avène Thermal Spring Water Spray, £5.25/150ml
Avène Cleanance Anti-Shine Regulating Emulsion, £9.50/40ml
Avène Cleanance Soapless Gel Cleanser, £7.95/200ml

Guerlain Paradis Exotique KissKiss Gloss

RRP: £16
# of shades available: 3 in the Paradis Exotique range (Pomme de Désir, Cerise Tentation, Orange Interdite); many more in the normal range

--What does the promo say?--
"Guerlain Paradis Exotique KissKiss Gloss Pomme du Desir is a delicate, non-sticky gloss that boasts lasting hold. Guerlain Paradis Exotique KissKiss Gloss Pomme du Desir is a pale golden green shimmer donating you a vibrant and fashion focused look veiled in sparkly transparency."

--Packaging--
The box this comes in is quite edgy, with gold and red pinstripes penetrating black. The lipgloss canister is disappointingly made of plastic (well, this has obvious benefits for travel and general carting around etc, but for the brand and price you sort of expect something more substantial), as is the screwtop lid, but the lid is nicely decorated with the Guerlain logo and with good use of a gunmetal-type sheen. The canister itself is see-through, and the brush is very fine and soft without feeling fragile or cheap.

--Application--
Stroke over lips, making sure you apply evenly and avoid tide marks at the edges of the lips.

--Scent--
None. Disappointing, that - with such a juicy name you almost expect something similar to bombard your senses in terms of scent and/or taste. Still, having it smell of nothing is infinitely better than the unpleasant smell or taste that some lip glosses can have (waxy/soapy).

--Texture--
The glitter particles in this gloss are quite large, and you can feel them on your lips. This didn't bother me, but it might bother other people, even though they're not really physically irritating.

--Appearance--
Provides a really unusual, pretty, and not-at-all scary sheen which is perfect for spring and summer time. The glitter is clearly visible without making you look like a disco ball either.

--Longevity--
Sadly not fantastic; expect to reapply every couple of hours.

--Value for money--
This is definitely at the upper end of expensive for a lip gloss. I only really bought this because the colour was so innovative (not to mention that I'm a sucker for anything limited edition), and on that score I was certainly satisfied. I'm equally sure that the Orange Interdite would fulfil expectations on that score. However, if you want a more commonplace colour, go for something a little less hard on the bank balance: there are plenty out there that are cheaper and that last longer too.

perfect partner
Guerlain Paradis Exotique Ombre Eclat 4 Shades Eyeshadow, £33

Lancôme Oscillation Powerbooster

RRP: €35/£26.50/$39

--What does the promo say?--
"Lancome presents the first vibrating lash booster to promote the natural growth of your lashes, improving density and length to show them at their best and improving the surface of the lashes. Every day lashes become visibly stronger, denser and longer; a unique step in beauty to immediately magnify the power of each mascara."

--Packaging--
As with all Lancome mascaras/lash products, it comes in a silver box, so is initially nondescript and indistinguishable from other Lancome products. However, the tube itself is white, with a gold streak leading to the button on the lid, which makes it much more unusual.

--Application--
Wiggle the wand through your lashes (the wiggling is important as it helps you to avoid clumps) as a primer for your mascara. As it dries quite quickly, though, I'd advise priming one eye with the Powerbooster, then adding mascara immediately afterwards, before treating the lashes on the other eye with both steps. This process also means that the white colour of the lash primer is less obvious as it blends better with the colour of the mascara, rather than appearing as two separate colours (though this does NOT turn your mascara grey, thankfully!). The button on the lid is quite sensitive, so go easy with it during application.

--Appearance--
The formula of the Powerbooster is white. Although this can to an extent be combatted by applying mascara immediately afterwards, I would really prefer the formula to be clear.

--Texture/consistency--
This is a difficult one to call. When I first started using this, I experienced clumping often, which doesn't say much for the formula, but this is greatly improved by wiggling rather than stroking the wand through the lashes, meaning that on the whole the experience of the formula's texture and consistency is more positive too. Doesn't weigh down your lashes.

--Sensation--
The sensation of the vibrating wand can be difficult to get used to, and obviously you must be careful when using it, as a vibrating wand can clearly cause more serious injuries than a non-vibrating one.

--Effects over time--
Immediately, lashes appear longer and fuller and a good base for mascara is provided as it gives even greater definition. Over time, you don't even have to be especially patient to see a difference in the length and thickness of your lashes - I noticed a difference in just a few uses, and wish I'd thought to take before and after pictures.

--Value for money--
This works really well with any high quality mascara, so you don't have to buy a Lancome mascara to go with it unless you want to. It also makes a visible difference that you can see in a relatively short space of time, which is more than can be said for some products. While the vibrating wand seems pointless for the actual mascara (Oscillation), I can see why it's needed for the Oscillation Powerbooster as it probably stimulates the lashes for all that natural growth that Lancome talks about. While it is slightly pricy, you know you are getting a product that works. Good job, Lancome.

Out on July 1st, 2009

perfect partner
Oscillation (available in 3 shades + 1 waterproof version), £28
Crayon Khol Waterproof, £17

Caudalie Gentle Buffing Cream

RRP: £17 for 60ml

--What does the promo say?--
"This rich scrub eliminates impurities, dead skin cells and excess oil while stimulating cellular renewal. Your complexion’s radiance is gently restored and your skin is soft and clean. For all skin types, even the most sensitive. Contains grape-seed oil, jojoba microbeads, honey, plant cellulose, liquorice, essential oils of sweet lime and sandal wood, and extracts of coriander, limette, lemon, guaiac wood, sweet orange, vetiver, sandalwood and lavandin."

--Packaging--
A very sweet-looking white tube with the custom Caudalie silver grapes logo. Plastic, with stand-alone screw-top lid.

--Application--
The Caudalie website advises use "on cleansed face, neck and décolleté once or twice a week using gentle circular movements. Rinse with warm water."

--Scent--
A very incense-heavy scent, with the sandalwood and coriander coming through most strongly. Lovely, though, and very unusual.

--Appearance--
A slightly yellowish, off-white cream, with the exfoliating particles visible only as tiny lumps.

--Texture/consistency--
Very creamy and rich, as promised by the brief. The exfoliating particles are very gentle (again, as promised) and feel good when the exfoliator is applied to the skin and massaged in.

--Effects on skin over time--
Short-term, skin does feel smoother, but I didn't feel that this effect lasted. Equally, I also noticed no difference in my skin condition over time: the recurrence of spots was in no way improved and dry patches kept returning, indicating that even if the buffing cream can get rid of these in the immediate period during and after use, there is no element of prevention or of long-term cure.

--Value for money--
This seems to me to be quite expensive for what it is. This is a shame, as it smells divine and I so wanted it to be effective. It seems this is just another case where you shouldn't trust anything claiming to be 'for all skin types' (where, yet again, it seems that this product would be best for normal or sensitive skin). Instead, I would recommend exfoliators by either Liz Earle (hers is cheaper too at £12 for 70ml) or Lush's Ocean Salt (£11 for 250g) for keeping things natural (at least Caudalie's products are chock-full of natural stuff, right down to the exfoliating beads themselves - can never understand why companies insist on using artificial exfoliating elements or beads when there are plenty of natural ingredients that do the job just as well). However, sucker that I am, I haven't given up on Caudalie yet. Their 'get your beauty prescription' tool on their website seems accurate and informative and I can't wait to try the products that the widget recommends - the Gentle Cleanser, the Beauty Elixir (toner), the Matte Finish Fluid (moisturiser) and the Purifying Concentrate (balancing complexion serum). Maybe there's hope yet...

perfect partners
Vinopure Purifying Mask, £17.50 for 50ml
Gentle Cleanser, £14 for 200ml

Molton Brown Skinbalance Toning Lotion

RRP: £18 for 200ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Our skinbalance toning lotion exfoliates your face and removes dead skin cells. While softening skin using American pumpkin enzymes, pink grapefruit, lime and yeast extract combine to strengthen the skin and reduce moisture loss. Alcohol-free and gentle enough to use around the eye area, this is suitable for all skin types."

--Packaging--
A nice, round, curvaceous bottle made from clear plastic, with a luxurious silver-effect screwtop lid and a few peaceful flower-style decorations. Clearly part of the Molton Brown brand and would look sophisticated on anyone's bathroom shelf.

--Application--
After cleansing, soak a cotton pad with some toner and wipe around your whole face to remove any traces of dirt and makeup.

--Scent--
None of the scents really come through individually, but the overall result is a natural sweet smell which I guess comes from the pumpkin enzymes and yeast extract. Very pleasant to use, and the scent is minimal too, meaning little or no interference with perfume.

--Appearance--
A clear, watery liquid. After use, skin appears slightly mattified and less oily.

--Sensation--
No effects, which means this would probably be good for sensitive skin. Very light and gentle.

--Effects over time--
It seems to remove residual traces effectively, which in itself would indicate an improvement in skin condition. However, I didn't find that my acneic skin saw much improvement at all, which was a shame, and suggests that this toner may work better with other skin types (normal-dry-sensitive).

--Value for money--
It seems a little foolhardy to trust something that claims to be 'for all skin types', so if you have a specific skincare need, you would be better spending the £18 on a product from a company that can provide that, such as Clinique, Lush, or Liz Earle. As an oily skin type I saw little or no difference in the condition of my skin, so would be unlikely to purchase this again. I would, however, be more willing to try some Molton Brown products more specific to my skin type to see if they can deliver on other promises.

perfect partners
Skinfresh Facial Wash, £20
Instant Matte Shine Control, £29
Skinboost Nourishing Tonic, £32
Active Defence City Day Hydrator, £29