Cosmetics and Beauty News (December 2012)

Santa baby, slip a spa day under the tree (belatedly)
Forgotten someone this Christmas? The Sanctuary Spa Day, £155, could be the answer to your prayers. Including full use of Covent Garden spa facilities for a day, the lucky recipient can also benefit from a 55-minute treatment of choice (including the Muscle Melt Massage and the Serenity Dreamtime Float, to name just a few of the options available). The gift card for the spa day also comes with the Sanctuary Ultimate Body Revival Gift Set, which is worth £20. And, what's more, the voucher can be sent straight to the receiver's inbox, meaning you needn't waste another second in making up for your slight lapse in organisation this Crimbo. Plus, it can be a great way to brighten up a dull January (the month of austerity and diets...ew).

Roq-ing around the Christmas tree?
Labs around the country are already beginning to surprise us with the latest developments for 2013. This particular new discovery, which comes from scientists working in Cambridge, could help with anti-ageing thanks to the anti-inflammatory qualities of a surprising food source: Roquefort. The cheese develops these anti-inflammatory factors during the ripening process, and these factors perform best in acidic environments, such as the skin surface. It is increasingly believed that sub-clinical inflammation is behind ageing, and the paper released by researchers suggests that regular consumption of Roquefort and other fermented cheeses like it (such as Camembert) could be behind the French population's low cardiovascular mortality rate, as the cheeses' anti-inflammatory properties can also have a positive effect on the buildup of plaque on arterial walls. Hopefully this means we'll all be roq-ing around the Christmas tree (groan) well into the new year. 

Witch skincare should I choose this year?
We all over-indulge at Christmas, and it's possible that this could take its toll on our skin, along with over-heated workplaces contrasted with cold weather outside. Witch wants to help with its range of products that could prep your face for the new year. Their Gentle Exfoliating Face Wash promises to help rejuvenate with natural exfoliants, while the classic Witch Blemish Stick uses pure witch hazel to try to kick blemishes into touch. Finish with Anti-Blemish Cream to care for your whole face, before using Witch's Anti-Blemish BB Cream afterwards in place of foundation (this one's already one of the range's top sellers despite only being out for three months). On the move? No problem: their Cleansing and Toning Wipes can pick up the pieces. And the best part? This shouldn't hit anyone's New Year budget too hard, with all products priced between £3.05 and £6.99. I'm trying to save up as much as anyone (aiming for 10k by the end of 2013!) and every little helps :-)

When the lights go out all over Europe

Cigarettes in 2014?

As per its decision on December 19th, the European Commission looks set to follow through on its promise to revise the Tobacco Products Directive, which involves strengthening and clarifying the rules regarding how tobacco is manufactured, presented and sold. Large pictorial health warnings will be mandatory on cigarette packets and roll-your-own products, and flavoured products may also face the axe. Internet and other cross-border sales will also see tougher regulations. My interest in this new legislation is something I've made clear in the past - not just due to history in my own family, but also as part of my role as teacher, where I regularly see students as young as 13 (and probably younger ones that I don't know about) taking up smoking. It is my fervent wish that one day it will become so unfashionable that I never see young people smoking again.

COMME DES GARCONS PARFUMS AMAZINGREEN x POSTMATTER.COM DEMO from MERI Media on Vimeo.

Comme des Garçons, comme des kaléidoscopes
A lot of culture these days seems to be all about multi-sensory experiences: think about Fabrice Hyber's lipstick sculpture (that of course, smells strongly of the stuff and had people's fingerprints all over it when I went to visit it) and dinner at Berlin's Unsicht-Bar, where you famously eat in the dark. Fragrance brand Comme des Garçons aims to do just that by extending its new perfume campaign with a kaleidoscopic display online. The new scent, called Amazinggreen, features wild leaves, coriander, and white musk, and is intended to be complemented by the display featured by iPad-exclusive magazine POST. Conceptualized as a 3D rainforest journey, the audience controls the display through their own computer cursor.

Healing our hair
My hair is really the bane of my beauty regime after my skin. Getting it cut and conditioned professionally is so expensive, and I'm constantly fighting between greasy roots and dry ends, with my hair never seeming to have the Pantene-style gloss that my sister-in-law seems to sport effortlessly. High-quality at-home products are therefore a must, and Unite's latest offerings, under the U LUXURY label, are definitely tempting. Its healing shampoos and conditioners contain argan oil, white honey, and crushed pearl, all of which are rich in regenerating calcium, magnesium, and amino acids. Many celebrities are already fans of the brand - including Victoria Beckham and Eva Longoria - and now you can get hold of it too, via several salons in London. The rest of the country is sure to follow once people realise that this is hopefully the hottest property for our hair this year.

Shower-time swirls
And finally, for a little more luxury this 2013 (you know I'm big on it), I present to you Dove's Crème Mousse Body Wash, which thanks to a series of cock-ups by the French postal service has not yet reached me in sample form. This sounds to die for thanks to its thick, non-drip formulation and luxurious feel, and a perfect addition to the Dove body creams that I've already had the pleasure of test-driving this winter. Even if I don't get to test it, I urge you to. 

Philosophy Spiced Clementine Toddy Gift Set

RRP: £18 (currently £9 in the sale)

--What does the promo say?--
"Share seasonal spirit. Spiced clementine toddy shampoo, shower gel & bubble bath (240 ml.) and body lotion (240 ml.) warm your heart and soul during and after the shower or bath."

--Packaging--
The dotty bow decoration on the box is lovely for a gift (especially for anyone with a January birthday, as you can grab this for half price in the sale at the moment), and the bottles themselves are classic Philosophy: transparent, so you can always see how much is left, with black writing detailing yummy recipes for the foodstuff that inspired the product. The black fliptop plastic lid is stylish, practical and secure.

--Application--
Lather up the 3-in-1 product in the shower, or pour under running water. Clean your hair with it as well if you like before rinsing off. As for the body lotion, rub into slightly damp or dry skin. Easy as pie (well, toddy).

--Appearance--
The bright orange shower gel definitely doesn't stain or even create much colour, foaming to a white/light orange lather. The body lotion is just a creamy colour, leaving no residue on the skin.

--Scent--
I was a little disappointed with the bath and shower product, as it smelled a bit too masculine for me (although I can't find a specific ingredient causing this) and evoked bitter orange peel scents and general alcohol more than spice and the sweetness of orange juice. The body lotion was better for this, meaning you could even share this pack with your better half (you can swipe the body lotion, and he can have the shower gel...how romantic).

--Texture and consistency---
The gel is smooth and quite runny, without being watery or sticky. The body lotion does equally well in this regard, sinking in super-quickly and providing a luxurious experience.

--Effects on skin and hair--
Body skin and hair are left feeling amazingly smooth and soft, with hair feeling volumised and nourished. Definitely a top scorer.

--Value for money--
A little goes a long way with this stuff and you definitely get good results too. Even though it's a pain that you can't buy both products separately, they do represent good value, with this being even truer now that Philosophy's sale is on. Go and get it!

perfect partner
The Microdelivery Peel, £59

Philosophy Hot Buttered Rum Shampoo/Shower Gel/Bubble Bath

RRP: £14 for 480ml

--What does the promo say?--

"Cozy up and share a sweet moment with hot buttered rum shampoo, shower gel & bubble bath, as it cleanses and conditions skin and hair."

--Packaging--

The see-through plastic squeezy bottle lets you see the deep translucent brown colour of the gel in all its glory - the picture above really doesn't do justice to the gel's gorgeous caramel colour. This enables you to always see how much is left, and the real recipe for hot buttered rum printed on the front of the bottle in black lettering is also a bonus. My only criticism would be the distinctly un-ergonomic bottle design: at nearly half a litre, it is quite wide, meaning you can't get your hand all the way round and that this leaves you in danger of dropping the bottle in the shower. A more curved shape would therefore be more helpful.

--Application--

Lather up and massage through hair or onto wet skin. Rinse out/off when done. Have not tested in the bath yet as sadly I don't own one. Should have access to one this Christmas, though, so watch this space.

--Appearance--

Dark brown - just like freshly melted caramel. This doesn't leave any residue on the skin, however - the lather itself is white, in any case.

--Scent--

Does not smell distinctly alcoholic, which in some ways is a shame, as I was expecting something more complex and less sweet. However, I can't really complain about smelling like a freshly-made batch of butterscotch every time I shower (even though the scent sadly doesn't linger long). I'm a big baking fan, so this is still a perfect treat for me, making it a wonderful addition to the autumn and winter months.

--Texture and consistency--

The gel itself is runny but not sticky, with just the right amount of viscosity. The lather that builds up is silky and luxuriant, and washes off easily (but not before you're done). This applies to skin and hair.

--Effects on the skin and hair--

I had reservations about using this on my hair, having had poor results from a Philosophy 3-in-1 product in the past. However, this one does exactly as promised: skin is left smooth and soft, while hair is left clean, shiny and with long-lasting volume. Hair did not get greasy as quickly after using this product either, meaning hair looked good for a full extra day after use.

--Value for money--

While the initial outlay seems expensive, remember that you're getting a big bottle of a high-quality 3-in-1 product. I would definitely repurchase - although if you're looking for something with more of an alcoholic tinge to it, the offerings from Alba, Korres and Carolina Herrera all look promising.

perfect partner

Hot Buttered Rum Lip Shine, £10

Neutrogena Nordic Berry Hand Cream

RRP: £3.30

--What does the promo say?--

	"NEUTROGENA Nordic Berry hand-cream 75ml - the Norwegian recipe - provides immediate relief and protection even for very dry and fissured hands. The cream is concentrated, with a high content of glycerin, and therefore it is sufficient to apply a very small amount. Even in considerably unfavourable conditions, it leaves hands markedly softer and smoother.
	Suitable for sensitive skin."

--Packaging--

The white background, contrasted by the bright berries in the bottom corner, provides a feeling of brightness in conjunction with peace, and does a lot to evoke a wintry atmosphere. The squeezy tube is easy to use, posing no problems of wastage or leakage.

--Application--

Massage into clean dry hands as needed.

--Appearance--

A white cream that leaves no visible residue on the hands after use.

--Scent--

 Smells sweet, but not ostensibly of berry to most people, I would imagine. This is probably because the berry in question is the rather obscure cloudberry, rather than being a more obviously identifiable berry scent like strawberry or blueberry. Not unpleasant, however. Does not smell at all of the shea butter that the cream also contains.

--Texture and consistency--

I have read some reviews online which describe this cream as fast-absorbing, but I cannot agree - I find that it sits on the skin for quite a long time before finally sinking in, meaning that this is probably one best reserved for night-time use. While the cream is lots of things - luxurious, silky - fast-absorbing it ain't.

--Effects on the skin--

Does leave skin feeling softer than before, although you need to make sure you get it properly between your fingers to combat the full effects of winter.

--Value for money--

Curiously, this doesn't seem to be widely available at the moment, even though it's been released by Neutrogena very recently and to great fanfare (mine arrived in a beautiful winter-themed box from their PR folks with another Neutrogena hand cream). However, if its RRP is really £3.30, this seems about right to me for this quality of cream. They would need to make it absorb faster (somehow) for me to consider paying much more, making the sub-£5 mark perfectly acceptable. Its dinky size also makes it an excellent stocking filler, ensuring that your hands will survive the winter.

perfect partner

Nordic Berry Cream for feet, £5.80

Dove Winter Care Nourishing Body Lotion

RRP: £3.99

--What does the promo say?--

"It's true that beauty starts from the inside. Dove Limited Edition Winter Care Nourishing Body Lotion works deep down. It not only moisturises the surface of your skin, but also delivers deep nourishment for long lasting beautifully soft and smooth skin. Its rich formula gives you the intensive care you need for the cold season. It treats dry skin so that it recovers, and the warm fragrance of Amber flower provides a pampering sensation. Now your skin can be beautiful, soft and smooth all winter long. The unique DeepCare Complex includes skin natural nutrients and rich essential oil to help gradually improve skin starting deep down."

--Packaging--

The pink and white colour combination is creamy and feminine, with the white snowflake motif adding an extra festive feel. The bottle is curved into an ergonomic design and this, along with its flip-top lid, makes it convenient and pleasant to use.

--Application--

Massage into clean dry skin just before bed or just after a shower. Leave to soak in, and enjoy. Nothing tricky about this.

--Appearance--

A white lotion that leaves no visible residue on the skin.

--Scent--

Oddly, and slightly disappointingly, this smells more of coconut than amber, which reminds me more of summer holidays than of Christmas, so that was a slight let-down. However, I suspect that being evocative of the holiday season was not this cream's main aim, but that keeping skin protected throughout winter was - so if the oils they have included (shea and sunflower to name just a few) are the best ones to do this job, more power to them.

--Texture and consistency--

Perhaps not the fastest sinking-in lotion I've ever used, but it's not sticky or greasy. While slightly runny, it doesn't go all over the place while you're using it and it doesn't massage into skin badly overall.

--Effects on the skin--

Does leave skin smooth and soft, but as I don't have problems with dry body skin on the whole, I couldn't say how this worked for those who tend to have more difficulty. 

--Value for money--

At just under £4 this is in line with standard high street RRPs, and makes for a luxurious experience for the price. I do believe that it can help skin to stay protected in winter thanks to its essential oils, collagen and urea content. Its attractive packaging also means that in a box with some pink tissue paper and Dove's Winter Care Cream, it would make a lovely gift for any lady in your life this Christmas - whether it's your mum, grandma or teenage daughter.

 perfect partner

Dove Winter Care Cream, £3.29 

Nico Cosmetics Anti-Wrinkle Snake Serum (Maximum Strength 4%)

RRP: £95

--About the brand--

"Nico Cosmetics is a new cutting edge brand in skin and body care products. We are a team of knowledgeable and innovative professionals, who have worked with a preferred UK leading supplier, for the design and manufacture of our product range in specialist studio, laboratory and production facilities.

All our products have undergone extensive dermatological and clinical tests to deliver effective skin and body treatments.

We provide highly effective skincare treatments to people who are looking for result driven qualities from a company they can trust.

Our team are currently working on many more products and our range will quickly expand over the coming months... so keep up to date with the Nico Cosmetics range.

All our products are made in the UK."

--What does the promo say?--

"Nico Cosmetics Anti-Wrinkle Snake Serum is a light gel formulated with maximum strength 4% of the active ingredient SYN AKE, which is an anti-wrinkle compound inspired by the Temple Viper serum. The serum is moisturising and rejuvenating with anti oxidants that prevent free radical damage. The anti-wrinkle properties reduce persistent expression lines that tend to remain, providing a decrease or elimination of wrinkle size, achieving beauty spa standard results. With a smoothing effect, promoting a youth prolonging treatment, leaving your skin glowing and radiant.

• Remarkable Age Killing Effect
• Intervention against the first signs of ageing
• Non invasive 
• Decrease in wrinkle size
• Smoothing
• Anti-wrinkle breakthrough
• 30ml"

--Packaging--
I'm in two minds about the packaging of this serum (which was kindly sent to me by Nico's PR staff). On the one hand, the effort's clearly there with a sleek black, purple and silver colour scheme (my favourite colours - yay!). But on the other hand, it looks cheap - all of the elements are plastic and frankly this is just not what you expect for £95 (you want elegance and wow-factor for the money paid). I only hope that if they've skimped on packaging, it's because the ingredients inside the bottle are truly top dollar. Let's admit it - we'd all rather have a better product inside slightly naff packaging than an inferior one inside amazing packaging, wouldn't we?

--Application--
This is a serum, so like all serums should be applied to the face after cleanser and toner, but before moisturiser. However, thanks to the super-smoothing effect described above, I've found that you can even replace your normal moisturiser with this serum and not suffer any ill effects. Hoorah :)

--Appearance--
A translucent, cloudy white gel which fades into invisibility on the face.

--Scent--
Clean without being chemical or clinical.

--Texture and consistency--
A smooth, cooling gel that resembles many other serums on the market, including Lancôme's Génifique and No7's Protect and Perfect. Sinks into skin very easily without stickiness.

--Effects on the skin--
As noted above, the first and foremost thing that I noted was the smoothing effect: I'm not sure I've ever encountered a serum before that you could wear without moisturiser in the dead of winter and that would enable you to still come back home with baby-soft skin at the end of the day. I also noticed a small increase in radiance. At the age of 26, I'm not sure that I'm really this range's target audience, and after a week's use, I haven't noticed any wrinkle reduction (believe it or not I do have a few - mainly around my forehead area), so nothing miraculous is occurring here.

--Value for money--
In spite of the smoothing effect and the increase in radiance, I find it very hard to believe that this product is really worth £95. I didn"t look in the mirror and think "wow"; I didn't receive any compliments on my skin condition. For £95 I also expect greater transparency in terms of what the ingredients are and what they do: to me, "inspired by Temple Viper serum" means nothing (I don't want to know what it's inspired by; I want to know what's in it!). If it were my product, I'd be bigging up the soluble collagen it contains, rather than resorting to cryptic phrases. I would therefore be very hesitant in recommending it for now, but will be passing it on to someone in the target age range to elicit their views. Keep your money in your wallet for now.

perfect partners
Moisturising Day Cream, £75
Moisturising Night Cream, £85
Swiss Apple Stem Cell Serum with Collagen, £85
Nico Skin Structure Rejuvenation System, £150*

*contains both serums, the day cream, and jade rollers

Lush Sandy Santa Sugar Scrub

RRP: £2.95

--What does the promo say?--

"Those great Christmas traditions of sun, surf and Santa! A sunny citrus body scrub with hints of floral, to perk up winter skin or get summer skin swimming-suit ready."

--Packaging--

In traditional Lush style, packaging is limited to a yellow paper sleeve. However, I'd strongly advise the purchase of an additional tin for this product due to reasons stated below.

--Application--

Rub gently over damp skin during a shower. Don't scrub too hard - the sugar particles will do all of the work. Then rinse off.

--Appearance--

Despite the fire-engine red of Santa's hat, this doesn't leave any visible residue on the skin (although it might make your shower look like you've been filming a scene from Psycho for a few minutes). This is one of the reasons why you will need a tin with a lid for this product as the colour does leach out quite a bit on contact with water - a soap dish with no lid just doesn't cut it. The shape of the scrub bar is very definitely a Santa head with a hat on, so perfect for getting you into a festive mood.

--Scent--

The overriding smell is that of peppermint, which along with the product's red and white colours really helps to evoke seasonal images of candy canes. This doesn't last as long on the skin as it could, though, and is strange, as it appears to deliberately contradict the main scents actually featuring in the ingredients list: rosewood, sandalwood and orange!

--Texture and consistency--

Delightfully scrubby without being too abrasive. However, it does have a tendency to fall apart or dissolve on contact with water (another reason why a tin with a lid is needed) and some of the larger crystals don't actually break down, leading to a small amount of wastage.

--Effects on the skin--

The essential oils used, combined with the exfoliating properties of the sugar, lead to super smooth and soft skin. Definitely a must in these cold winter months while trying to dodge dry patches.

--Value for money--

At a mere £2.95 this makes a fun stocking filler and it actually lasts a few weeks too, making it great for making your bathroom look a lot like Christmas. Just make sure you get the tin with it, no matter who you're buying for.

perfect partners

Orange Blossom Perfume, £5.50

Melting Snowman Bath Melt, £1.95

North Pole Soap, £3.25/100g

Father Christmas Bath Bomb, £3.25

Bubblebeard Bubble Bar, £4.95

Beauty Byte: Umberto Giannini Advent Calendar

Fancy winning some gorgeous hair goodies this Christmas? Look no further than Umberto Giannini's generous advent calendar, located here. Their generous haircare gifts up for grabs include shampoo and conditioner duos, hair accessories, and much much more. The prizes are only set to get bigger as the month goes on, but check in each day for your chance to win. Have a hair-raising Christmas!