Muse-ic to our ears

SPONSORED BY ESTEE LAUDER

As many of you may know, I'm a bit of a fan of Estée Lauder's cosmetics and skincare. I won't pretend that I love every single product I've tried from this brand, but I've never once concealed my admiration for their highly effective Take It Away makeup remover, the wearable Beautiful Love, the joyful Idealist serum, the failsafe DayWear Plus, and the deeply conditioning Pure Color Gloss.

Now, just in time for Christmas, the brand has added another fragrance to its arsenal, which perhaps most famously consists of Pure White, Pleasures, and Beyond Paradise. Modern Muse is already awash with five-star ratings online, and its sparkling floral notes sound right up my alley, tallying with the personalities of my current favourite fragrances (YSL Parisienne and Hugo Boss Femme). Combining citrus and jasmine notes with patchouli, vanilla, amber and musk, this promises to be a balanced yet special fragrance for the festive season and beyond.

Don't believe me? Then perhaps this will convince you:
And if that's not enough, the Estée Lauder website offers 2 free samples with every order - so there's every chance to try before you buy (or at least, before SANTA buys :) ).

M Micallef Art Collection Rouge 2013

RRP: €185/100ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Parfums M Micallef...is announcing the launch of the new ART COLLECTION with a duo of gourmand and sensual fragrances: Rouge N°1 and Rouge N°2...The M Micallef Company gives priority to qualitative and natural ingredients in its fragrances...Martine Micallef has reinterpreted the Art Deco fundamentals [combining] geometrical figures, cubic cap and bottle adorned with circular shaped Swarovski Crystal Rocks. Floral-fruity eau de parfum Rouge N°1 combines delicious yellow fruit and a generous bunch-of-flowers heart, warmed by the vanilla and white musk base. Oriental-floral eau de parfum Rouge N°2 mixes the refinement of a bunch of jasmine, orchids and violets with oriental scents of amber, vanilla and animal notes."

--Packaging--
The samples sent to me for free by M Micallef were just plastic vials. However, it's true that the bottles themselves look very impressive. My only worry is that this extravagance in the packaging could drive up the price of the perfume itself.

--Application--
Spritz onto pressure points to have the scent linger all over your body.

--Scent--
The Rouge N°1 is, in my view, far too heavy, evoking images of overly made-up old ladies and retro film stars (and sadly not in a good way). I suspect that the overbearing ylang ylang is responsible for this, with the other aspects of the scent not getting a look-in. Perhaps purchase for your grandmother!

On the other hand, Rouge N°2 is a delight, and perfect for young ladies or the young-at-heart. Sparkling and uplifting, it is carried on the blissful wings of violet, citrus and blackcurrant. Vanilla and jasmine ensure it isn't too sharp, while nutmeg and amber make sure it isn't sickly sweet. Unique and perfectly balanced.

--Longevity--
M Micallef's perfumes are made with very high-quality ingredients, so while you may wish to reapply once during the day just to get that burst of the head notes again, it's not strictly necessary, since even though you stop smelling it, it does last all day.

--Value for money--
On the one hand, I can't blame you for the sharp intake of breath that I myself experienced upon realising how expensive M Micallef's fragrances are. Alongside the absolute cost, relatively speaking I can see why people might want to go for a bigger name: for a similar price, you can choose eaux de parfum from brands such as Giorgio Armani, Guerlain, Yves St Laurent or Acqua di Parma. On the other hand, such a quantity (remember we are talking about a 100ml bottle here) would last you an incredibly long time - with daily use, I'd estimate a minimum of 18-24 months. Rouge N°2 is a unique scent using high-quality ingredients that would give you a kick out of using a limited edition perfume whose fragrance you really love every day for nearly two whole years. Plus, you'd have the moral satisfaction of supporting a smaller parfumière, as opposed to one of the big boys. The choice is yours.

M Micallef perfumes can be purchased in the UK at Fortnum and Mason, as well as at Harrods (at Roja Dove's).

M Micallef Royal Vintage Eau de Parfum

RRP: from €76 for 30ml

--What does the promo say?--

"The perfume for men with timeless sophisticated elegance. Part of the EXCLUSIF collection which gathers exceptional fragrances for men and women, ROYAL VINTAGE offers a very subtle fragrance: opening on tonic scents of pink berries and bergamot, the assertive notes of cypress and patchouly are lightened by the softness of leather and musk notes. ROYAL VINTAGE is a perfume for men with timeless sophisticated elegance."

--Packaging--

Sample sizes of this were kindly sent all the way from Grasse, the perfume-lovers' capital. These took the form of a tiny glass bottle with a black lid, and an equally tiny black plastic vial, with white writing. Black plays a prominent role in the real bottle, along with silver, in a circular design resembling a retro record or vintage car wheel - both perfectly appropriate to the Royal Vintage theme.

--Application--

Your fella can spritz this behind his ears, and under arms if desired. To be used sparingly (see more under 'scent').

--Appearance--

The scent has a lemon-yellow colour in the bottle, but of course dries invisibly on the skin.

--Scent--

This is a strong scent that really carries and lasts all day, so you don't need much. It keeps things simple with six key elements: musk, cypress, bergamot, patchouli, leather, and red berries. Amazingly, all of these elements are extremely well-balanced and definitely detectable in the fragrance, which is unusual, as quite often commercial fragrances claim to contain several elements, only for just one or two to be really prominent, overriding all of the others. The bergamot helps to give a citric dimension, while the leather gives an impression of vintage cars. Patchouli, musk and cypress combine to create that traditional fern-like 'masculine' scent, which is often provided by the equally fresh and forest-like vetiver in other scents. The red berries are less detectable, but are definitely there once the fragrance has had more time to develop, without making Royal Vintage seem too fruity or feminine. However, him indoors says he still wouldn't go out of his way to buy it, preferring Fahrenheit by Dior or Terre d'Hermes by Hermes for their respective blends.

--Longevity--

As above; easily lasts all day without reapplication, making it a rare pearl in the fragrance world.

--Value for money--

This scent retails at a price that is on a par with other high-end brands, such as Penhaligon's. I think its longevity and balanced blend makes it worth the price, and thus a brilliant gift for any of the men in your life (Father's Day, anyone?).

Dolce & Gabbana L'Imperatrice Eau de Toilette

RRP: £39/100ml

--What does the promo say?--

"L''Impératrice opens with top notes of rhubarb, red currant and juicy kiwi accord. Fresh watermelon accord in the heart of the fragrance creates a mouth-watering concoction that is then offset by the drama of pink cyclamen for an exhilarating fragrance sensation. The musky notes, sandalwood and grapefruit wood in the base notes are boisterous, brilliant and incredibly addictive."

--Packaging--

I just had a small vial sample of this, so can't comment on the real deal, but the pale pink seems quite ordinary and the outside of the spray bottle almost too minimalistic. However, as a collection the pastel colours harmonise beautifully, with each scent in the Anthology series (which comprises four fragrances for men and four for women) having a different colour, ranging from slate to green, passing through pinks, corals and yellows on the way. In a way, you arguably expect more for the money, but in another sense, if it means the company has spent money on the product rather than on its packaging, then so much the better.

--Application--
Spritz on pressure points and perhaps through hair for all-over impact.

--Appearance--

A clear liquid with no glitter or colourants; no visible residue is therefore left on skin.

--Texture and consistency--

No irritation was experienced while using this product.

--Scent--

The first thing to hit you is the fruit, but it's not overly sugary and definitely not cheap (as some reviewers have derided it for being); it's completely authentic and nothing about it makes you feel like it's been synthetically put together, which means that someone somewhere has done an excellent job. However, I'd say that all of the fruits mentioned fuse together in such a way that you can only tells that each of them is there if you really think about it; none of them stand out individually over the other, making for a truly harmonious creation. If I were to think really hard and had to choose one, I'd say that the redcurrant notes were the most obvious. The muskier and woodier notes mentioned in the promotional material are barely evident. It's therefore more on the fruity and enthusiastic side rather than being yielding, without (at the same time) being overbearing or lacking in subtlety.

--Longevity--

Definitely not an all-day fragrance; by 4pm it had worn off, so expect to have to reapply at least once or twice during the day.

--Value for money--

I reckon that Dolce and Gabbana have pitched this at a good price point, with brands such as Kenzo, Givenchy, Guerlain and Hermes also selling their 100ml eaux de toilette for this amount of money. It's a small price to pay to buy into a real designer brand and for a high-quality, delightful fragrance that's suitable for all ages of women. It's just a shame there are no companion products (such as shower foam or body lotion) to go with this - but perhaps they're working on that. Either way, I would splash out on the whole bottle in future.

Aura-Soma Pegasus Perfume 58 (Aquatic Flowers)

RRP: £79

--What does the promo say?-- 

"Light earthy floral with touch of water on top notes; light and transparent, often recommended for sensitive skin. A lovely balance between mind and matter, symbolised by earth and sky, or flowers and water. Delicate, sensitive and highly feminine. Pink flowers, rose, lotus flower and pink jasmine, are grounded with a touch of amber and musk and represent the earthy notes. Aquatic notes, such as Japanese seaweed, dewdrops and wild angelica represent the more herbaceous and watery elements on the top notes."

--Packaging--

My sample size from Aura-Soma arrived in a tiny vial in the style of what you can get for free from department stores, so instead of the beautiful pink and blue faded design that you can see above, I had a clear glass tube, through which the pale yellow liquid can be seen, adorned simply with a sticker reading '58'. I feel that the numbers and the names of the perfumes, as well as the name of the line (Pegasus) are a bit superfluous, and that Aura-Soma should just pick one and run with it.

--Application--
Just spritz wherever you want to smell good, and you're away! Aura-Soma's shower gels and body lotions make a good accompaniment.

--Appearance--

Pale yellow fluid in the bottle, as mentioned; invisible on the skin.

--Scent--

As the essential oils used in the collection are, as Aura-Soma's PR were so keen to tell me, sourced from the second largest biodynamic farm in the UK (FYI, it's Shire Farm, in Lincolnshire), I was perhaps expecting something more exceptional. It smelled no more 'natural' than commercial perfumes and smelt a bit 'old' for my age group, perhaps as a consequence of the rose and jasmine that's included. The more unusual ingredients, such as angelica and Japanese seaweed, were as good as undetectable. A great shame, as I was hoping for something truly spectacular and intense.

--Longevity--

Again, this fared no better than commercial perfumes, wearing off within a few hours.

--Value for money--

As perhaps already goes without saying, I wouldn't pay £79 for this, even if the bottle is enormous and even if the ingredients are organic. If I were going to pay £79 for a perfume, it is perhaps with a tinge of regret that I would end up going for a more reliable commercial alternative, such as Viktor & Rolf's Flowerbomb (100ml EDP). Aura-Soma do better with their body and skin care products, however, so there's no need to give up on them completely.

Only for sale in the UK; see the following stockists:

www.dolphins-angels.com

www.11essence.co.uk

Aloka, 14 East Street, Brighton

Lucia Angelis, 8 Turnpin Lane, London

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Solid Perfume

RRP: £35

--What does the promo say?--
"The solid perfume. A new touch of sensuality with all the magic of Aromatics Elixir. An elegant spinoff from the Aromatics Elixir collection, which can find room in even the smallest pocket, for a small perfumed touch during an evening. Its floral motif makes it an elegant and precious accessory."

--Packaging--
Satisfying and beautiful; impressive right from the start, it arrives in a small velveteen cream bag, and there is a gorgeous, simple yet classic floral design engraved into the lid. Easy to open and close (but only when you want to), the solid perfume itself is a delicate honeycomb colour that turns invisible when applied to the skin. The metal casing is of a delightful weight, reassuring you in itself of the care that has gone into ensuring the high quality of the product.

--Application--
Rub the balm onto your fingers and then transfer onto pulse points (neck, wrists, and behind ears). No problems here.

--Texture/consistency--
Quite a hard balm, but you don't need very much per application. Instantly easy to tell that this compact will last ages.

--Scent--
Initially unappealing; it's more like something that would be worn by my grandmother. However, it's worth giving this scent time to develop: it soon matures into something more interesting and multi-layered, combining tradition with modernity. It's packed so full of lovely fragrances* that you're bound to find a note in it that you like, even if it might take you a little time to do so.

--Longevity--
On the up side, this certainly packs a punch when it comes to staying power. By lunchtime it's still there and has found its harmony with your body, even if you applied it at 7.30. That's not to say it lasts all day, but just one reapplication per day would probably do it; two maximum if you really want to make an impact in the evening.

--Value for money--
Given the little you have to use each time, along with the stunning packaging and complex scent, I'd say £35 is very reasonable indeed. It's a surefire gift for women who love perfume, even if its scent is arguably not instantly lovable. You have to take the time to get to know it - but that, surely, is one of the joys of perfumery.

*for the record, those scents are: rose essence, sandalwood, camomile, oakmoss, jasmine, muguet, ylang ylang, patchouli, vetiver, musk, and amber.

perfect partners
Aromatics Elixir Decorated Bottle Perfume Spray, £60/100ml
Aromatics Elixir Velvet Sheer, £33.40/45ml
Aromatics Elixir Perfume Spray, from £19.50
Aromatics Elixir Eau de Toilette, £30.50/45ml
Aromatics Elixir Body Wash, £19.50/200ml
Aromatics Elixir Body Smoother, £22.50/200ml
Aromatics Elixir Body Cream, £24.50/150ml
Aromatics Elixir Body Powder, £20.50/75g
Aromatics Elixir Anti-Perspirant Deodorant, £12.50/75ml

Yves St Laurent Parisienne Eau de Parfum

RRP: from £34 for 30ml

--What does the promo say?--
"The portrait of a woman incredibly free. Free to think, free to act. She was not born in Paris, but Paris adopts her, because she conveys the joy of living and loving in the moment. A precious flacon, intricately carved like the labyrinth of Parisian streets, as soft as the sheets she has just left behind, as pink as an early morning sky, as couture as the YSL label on black leather. A grand floral with a woody structure, luminous even in its mystery, PARISIENNE is the perfume of ultra femininity, warmed by the touch of the man who embraced her. The top note adds the shine of vinyl, an ultra modern wink to gloss, varnish or the metal of a spike heel, before the tartness of cranberry adds a point of bitter sharpness - the evocation of a certain impertinence softened by sparkling, succulent, fruity blackberry, symbol of an epicurean PARISIENNE. The floral heart beats wildly with the absolute femininity of the Damask rose, which harmonizes perfectly with the powdery violet, sensual and carnal like leather worn by Kate Moss. In contrast, the peony gives a breath of PARISIENNE youth and a hint of morning freshness. The base note brings tumult and intensity in its woody wake. First with patchouli, the ultimate in mystery. And when the masculinity of vetiver flirts with the feminine eroticism of musk and sandalwood, one knows that this PARISIENNE knew a 'night of love'."

--Packaging--
With echoes of Viktor and Rolf, it's unusual while still being romantic as the lilac liquid shines through the glass bottle. This is set off by a high-shine gold top that you simply pull off, and with the trademark YSL label stuck to the front in black and gold.

--Application--
Spritz onto pulse points, and go.

--Appearance--
While the liquid appears purplish in the bottle, nothing is visible on the skin.

--Scent--
The overriding smell is of violets, so this definitely takes some getting used to. Some of the scents described in the brief are virtually undetectable (cranberry, for instance), while some of the others emerge later on (such as patchouli). I personally don't hate it, but this is definitely a personal thing: many people will find it too sweet and I certainly wouldn't call it a classic fragrance that will live forever.

--Longevity--
About average, I'm afraid. Expect to reapply at least once or twice a day.

--Value for money--
A nice enough fragrance (absolutely not down there with the horror of Sisley's fragrances) but for the money I'd expect something more timeless and something that lasted longer on your skin. As an English girl living in Paris, the concept of the perfume definitely appeals to me, but it's debatable as to whether the quality of the fragrance truly lives up to the vision. Go for Viktor and Rolf's Flowerbomb instead.

perfect partners
Parisienne Eau de Toilette, from £32 for 30ml
Parisienne Body Lotion, £28 for 200ml
Parisienne Shower Gel, £27 for 200ml