Cosmetics Contemplations: Knowing Your Beauty Alphabet

To beauty bloggers and columnists everywhere, 2012 will surely be remembered as the year of the BB cream (I'm still busy trialling a huge quantity of them; prepare for a post on a battle of the BBs in 2013!).

To some, it could still seem slightly baffling as to what a BB cream even is exactly: just about every brand going has jumped on the bandwagon, and all of this new information could seem a little overwhelming. It's important to note that there is a clear difference between a tinted moisturiser and a BB cream: tinted moisturisers obviously moisturise (and with that comes anti-ageing qualities), but also offer coverage equivalent to a light foundation. They often contain sunscreen as well. BB creams are supposed to do all of this and more, and to my mind any extra qualities should be quantifiable - not just something vague like added radiance. BB actually stands for "blemish balm", so the first thing on the list should be an ingredient that actively combats blemishes (whether this is tea tree, salicylic acid, or another spot-fighting agent). They can also act as a makeup primer, meaning that this is another step that BB cream users can skip. In Asia, where the creams are extremely popular, they frequently contain a whitening agent, which understandably doesn't go down too well in Europe. In the West, BB is often said to stand for the far more woolly "beauty balm", which means that many products given this label are little more than tinted moisturisers with a different name. To me, that is a real shame, as there is little worse to me in the world of consumerism than shoppers being out-and-out conned. 

However, this bombardment of information is set to become even more bewildering in 2013 thanks to the inception of CC and, yes, even DD creams. So what are the differences between DD creams, CC creams, BB creams, and tinted moisturisers? 

CC can stand for "complete correction", implying that these would be good for those wishing to blur pigmentation and scars. However, CC is also reported to stand for colour correction, complexion control, and various combinations of these words, making them far less distinct from our friends the BB creams. They are essentially supposed to be revamped versions of BB creams - doing all that they do, but with more radiance, more and longer-lasting coverage, and with a lighter texture. In addition, they are meant to have an even lighter texture, and come in different tones for different needs, in the manner that we are already used to with concealers and primers (pink, yellow, blue, green and lavender, to correct redness, dullness, and so on).

The DD creams are meant to provide us with our daily defense. These, though, are not for the face, but for the feet and body. Given the battering my feet seem to get each day even when wearing flat shoes, this is a revolution that I am looking forward to. As well as softening the toughest skin like regular body creams, the more heavy-duty DD creams also promise to reduce other body blemishes, such as stretch marks.

Amazingly, AA creams also already exist (although they are far less common). These can theoretically be used by people with any skin type, and typically contain avocado, alpha lipoic acid, allantoin, and vitamin A to help with anti-ageing and general skin condition. Further to this, there are even whispers on the wind of EE (early elimination) creams - although it seems that very little is known about these at present.

You could ask why all of these categories are even significant. For genuinely new types of cream, it should be easy to distinguish these from others and not become confused. For other creams that are easy to mix up with others, surely it shouldn't matter what they are called or marketed as if they are right for your skin? 

However, to my mind, it does matter - firstly from the point of view of cost. Clinique's BB cream is £25, while its tinted moisturiser is only £21.50. This also works for more affordable brands: Nivea's tinted moisturiser costs around £3.50, but its BB cream is closer to £6. If the BB cream genuinely offers different benefits, then a higher price can perhaps be justified - but if there is no difference at all (as is often the case in the West, whose brands frequently put notoriously little effort into their BB creams), then why should the consumer pay more for what is essentially just the bandwagon of a new trend, even if the difference is in name only?

Then there is the basic matter of integrity and transparency, and respect for the customer. If you treat your customers like idiots, and they find out, they will vote with their feet.

So my advice is this: don't touch a BB, CC, or DD cream with a bargepole unless you know full well what you're buying, and can justify the cost, knowing that the product is genuinely different to existing concepts. I therefore offer this handy "cut-out-and-keep" guide, just the right size to keep in your purse, so that you know what you're getting:

Type of cream	This cream should :
BB	Moisturise, anti-age, have an SPF, offer light coverage or better, combat blemishes
CC	Moisturise, anti-age, have an SPF, offer medium coverage or better, combat blemishes and scars, come in different tones for different needs
DD	Be for the feet and body, intensively moisturise, reduce body blemishes

And as jokes abound regarding the similarity of these cream names compared to the nation's bra sizes, it's my hope that retailers and manufacturers will wise up and begin to inform consumers better about their choices. That, after all, is why I started blogging - and rest assured that as soon as more information about EE creams (and who knows? FF creams, GG creams...) becomes available, I will be right here waiting for you.

17 BB Cream SPF25

RRP: £6.99

# of shades available: 3

--What does the promo say?--

"17 Blemish Balm BB Cream. All in one magic make up. Improves skin within 4 weeks."

--Packaging--

The black and yellow colour scheme has fun, summery, "bumble-bee" type connotations which make the whole thing seem very cheerful. Block capitals on the front of the box and tube keep information to a minimum while making sure you know all that is vital. However, further details are forthcoming on the back of the box and tube, more so than on the Boots website (ultimately the product promises to prevent breakouts, minimise pores, control oil, give a flawless finish, conceal imperfections, and protect skin thanks to the SPF). The squeezy tube is easy to use, ensuring that no product is wasted, and the lid clicks closed securely.

--Application--

Pat the cream gently onto clean dry skin. Finish with powder if desired.

--Appearance-- 

This BB cream gives far better coverage than most other Western products of this type: rather than being sheer, it offers full concealment of blemishes, and despite there only being three shades available, I found that the 'light' version sent to me by 17's PR was a perfect match for my skin tone. In fact, coverage was so good that I often found myself bypassing the concealer that I keep by the side of my bathroom sink - so if this product can streamline my makeup routine, so much the better! Delivers a flawless finish as promised, although whether or not a product minimises the appearance of pores is always going to be difficult to measure.

--Scent--

Scentless, I'd say.

--Texture and consistency--

Very creamy and luxurious without being heavy or bogging the skin down. A little also goes a really long way and it's very easy to blend, too.

--Longevity--

Lasts quite well throughout the day, although could perhaps do with one touchup after 5-6 hours of wear. Still, at this price I'm not complaining; many more expensively-priced products do worse.

--Effects on the skin-- 

Thanks to the SPF, this product stood up to the South of France sun for a week straight, meaning I didn't have any sunburn or redness on my face. I also did notice an improvement in my skin condition over four weeks' use, as 17 said I would. A wonderful product!

--Value for money--

Excellent. It works brilliantly and is priced modestly in line with competing products made by Garnier, Maybelline and Superdrug - and can even give more expensive brands a run for their money. I would definitely purchase a replacement tube as soon as this one runs out. My faith in 17 is restored!

Clinique Age Defense BB Cream SPF 30

RRP: £25 for 40ml

# of shades available: 3 (with the third being an online exclusive)

--What does the promo say?--

"NEW Age Defense BB Cream SPF 30 is a medium to full coverage cream that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, helps conceal imperfections and enhances skin's complexion. The formula calms skin and helps protect against UV and environmental damage while working to help balance the skin, and provides oil and shine control to extend the life of the foundation all day."

--Packaging--

The pale green and silver ensemble is so far, so Clinique. Nothing outstanding here. Metal lid feels luxurious yet secure. Squeezing out of product from bottle is very easy to control.

--Application--

The product insert gives a range of possible uses, so you need to apply it as you see fit. Either way, you start by applying it all over your face. This way it serves as a sunscreen (and therefore an anti-ageing product), concealer and moisturiser, which also claims to soothe, protect against environmental aggressors such as pollution, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and play the role of a foundation. So you can just stop there. OR, after you've applied it, you can use it as a primer - so you can continue applying the rest of your makeup as normal.

--Appearance--

I find that shade 01 matches my skin tone very well, although if I had one teeny tiny criticism it would be that there is a slight off-white effect, which comes from the sunscreen element. This can be remedied through the artful application of powder - I'm currently using Benefit Dandelion and Arbonne pressed powder. Skins that are even paler could potentially just leave it at that, though.

--Coverage--

Coverage is excellent. For me, the use of powder, while necessary to regulate the colour slightly, is not needed for extra coverage, while the use of concealer need only be minimal (and maybe even not needed at all on good days).

--Texture and consistency--

Is similar to a light foundation in its consistency; it's not creamy enough to match a tinted moisturiser, and yet doesn't feel at all sticky. I'm guessing the lack of total creaminess is due to the sun-protection properties.

--Scent--

Slightly chalky perhaps, but ultimately smells clean. Nothing from the ingredients list jumps out as being dominant.

--Effects on the skin--

Wow-factor effect comes mainly from the coverage provided as well as the longevity of the product (see below). Face feels moisturised and oiliness feels controlled, but no more than with the use of my regular ensemble of products. Skin is not irritated by the use of the product. Longer-term use and testing would be required to see if it really protected against environmental aggressors or provided an anti-ageing benefit. Sun protection is excellent.

--Longevity--

Once applied, this doesn't need to be touched up. For this reason, it works well as a concealer, primer, foundation and sunblock.

--Value for money--

While I was initially a little shocked at the price, this comes into the same price range as foundations by Stila and Dermalogica. For tinted moisturisers the brand comparison is even better, falling into the same bracket as tinted moisturisers by Laura Mercier and Yves Saint Laurent. The appeal also comes from the fact that this BB cream, unlike a lot of Western offerings, actually seems to be a real contender to the multi-function products found in Asia rather than just being a tinted moisturiser under a different name. To recap, the Clinique BB Cream offers 9 separate functions (1. Concealer; 2. Anti-ageing over the long term; 3. Reduce the appearance of lines in the short term; 4. Defends against environmental aggressors;  5. Soothes; 6. Moisturises; 7. Controls oil; 8. Foundation; 9. Makeup primer). On the downside, though, this is expensive for a BB cream and you do have the feeling that Clinique are capitalising on the brand's image just a tiny bit: the only BB creams falling into this price bracket are the most premium lines from genuine Asian brands Missha and Skin79 (their normal products cost less than this). However, I would probably still buy it with my own money (I was sent a PR sample this time) due to its fabulous coverage, good colour match, ability to stay on the skin without turning my face into an oil slick, the fact that a little goes a long way, and the idea that while it is in the same price bracket as the brands mentioned above, it does so much more.

perfect partners

Chubby Stick Moisturising Lip Colour Balm, £16

Dramatically Different Moisturising Lotion, from £16.50

Quickliner for Eyes Intense, from £13

Garnier Miracle Perfector All-in-One BB Cream

RRP: £9.99/50ml

# of shades available: 2 (light and medium)

--What does the promo say?--

"Garnier's Miracle Skin Perfector Cream, inspired by the Asian skincare sensation, B.B. (Blemish Balm) Creams. Garnier BB cream for immediately perfected skin with even tone and boosted glow. Blurs imperfections and smoothes fine lines. SPF15 protection and 24hr hydration." 

--Packaging--

The skin tone-coloured packaging is more reminiscent of a standard tinted moisturiser or foundation's packaging, in contrast to the usually more glitzy packaging of other BB creams I've seen from Asia. This may not immediately alert consumers to the notion that this product is supposed to do something different. However, the packaging is sturdy, reliable, and easily controllable - you won't get silly amounts of product ejected all over your hand unless you try really hard.

--Application--

Simple really: squeeze a pea-sized amount onto the back of your hand and then distribute evenly over your face, rubbing it in, avoiding the eye area. You can do this in between concealer and powder if you like.

--Appearance--

A thick, skin-coloured cream that blends in well with my pale skin tone. At the edges, though, you have to be careful to blend the product well as there is the danger of tide marks or it looking slightly orange. The overall effect is a dewy one (hence why I prefer to set it with powder for a more matte look for work) and I wouldn't say it covers blemishes brilliantly on its own.

--Scent--

Slightly fruity, slightly floral - it's possibly the geraniol that does this. Very pleasant and very different to the tinted moisturisers and foundations currently available to consumers.

--Texture and consistency--

Blends very well, although as I mentioned, be careful at the jawline and hairline for tide marks. Definitely feels different to a foundation or tinted moisturiser - it's more creamy, rather than giving a powdery or paint-like feel. Not runny at all and very easy to control.

--Coverage--

As mentioned, not fantastic, even with a fairly heavy-duty concealer being used underneath it. As for wrinkle/fine line coverage, I wouldn't know - I am only 25 after all and so don't have many.

--Effects on the skin--

With reference to my comments above, this product does contain an agent that acts like a temporary 'plumping' agent to fill in fine lines and wrinkles, but nothing noticeable jumped out at me in this respect once the product was on my skin. The dewy finish probably contributes more to the awake-looking appearance than the caffeine it contains, and in any case, presumably the effects of the caffeine, like the vitamin C and SPF that it also contains, wouldn't be visible in the short term anyway. On the up side, though, I did notice a general improvement in the condition of my skin while using this product - in terms of testing out the claims on Garnier's website, redness did seem to be reduced, complexion seemed more glowing, radiant and unified, and blemishes seemed reduced as well (although curiously the product contains no immediately obvious blemish-reducing agent).

--Value for money--

In spite of this product's shortcomings (and speaking of which - only 2 shades available, Garnier? Come on.), I have found myself pleasantly surprised. I know I was lucky that the light shade was suitable for my skin (which was the one I chose when Garnier asked what I wanted), and I know that its ability to conceal definitely leaves something to be desired, but the texture is really pleasing and the effects on the skin more than satisfactory (although to say in the promo that skin will be 'immediately perfected' is more than a bit of an exaggeration). Nonetheless, I shall be interested to see how this product competes with Clinique's attempt at a European BB cream (Asian ones tend to have whitening as their goal), as well as with bona fide BB creams from Korea and Taiwan.

perfect partner

Caffeine Anti-Dark Circles 2-in-1 Roll-on, £10.20