The oil cleansing method

I promised a post on the oil cleansing method following my review of Kick Start Coconut Oil. And it's something that often seems more than a little surprising.

Oil, you say? I've heard of putting oil on my body, or even on my hair, but isn't putting oil on my face kind of gross?
And I already have oily skin as it is - won't this make it worse?
Cleansing with oil sounds messy and complicated!
Even if I do decide to do it, what type of oil should I use? I've heard that essential oils should be diluted and that you need to be careful with putting them on your face...

Time to debunk the myths, explain the method, choose your oil, and enjoy the effects. 

It sounds counterproductive, but putting oil onto already oily skin will actually do some good. The skin overproduces oil when the body thinks (rightly or wrongly) that it is undernourished. By letting it know that actually, it has enough (thanks to the natural oils you are putting on your face!) the skin scales its production of your body's natural oils right back to ultimately create a more balanced complexion. Naturally, the oil cleansing method also helps to hydrate dry, mature and combination skin types too.

So what is the method itself? Sometimes when you read about it online, it can sound overly complicated, but in the end you only need two steps:

1. Put oil onto your face. The easiest way of doing this is by putting the oil into a pump-action bottle (just clean the tube regularly with hot water to stop it from getting clogged) and pushing the pump down once to get enough oil out. If you are using a pot or bottle, you can always scoop with a spatula or pour (carefully!) into your hands before massaging the oil onto your face. (Got more oil than you need? Doesn't matter! Massage into your hands, neck, decolleté and arms too - you should moisturise everywhere anyway for maximum anti-ageing benefits.) The massaging action itself has benefits in terms of, say, your circulation - but what you really want to happen is for the oil to break down dirt, grime and makeup.

2. Wipe the oil off your face using a tissue or cotton pad. I normally go round twice, wiping with both sides of the cotton pad. Don't worry about getting off every last trace - part of the advantage of cleansing with oil is that the oil also serves as a moisturiser once you've wiped off any dirt that's accumulated during the day.

If I've been wearing makeup, I usually do this twice - once to get rid of the makeup and once to cleanse my face properly.

So what type of oil should you use for all of this? It's true that essential oils are highly concentrated and you need to be careful with them - so don't do anything silly like putting neat tea tree oil all over your face. However, you can also mix oils - so do feel free to put a few drops of any essential oil that helps you (e.g. lavender for sleep, or eucalyptus for healing) into your base oil. But what should this base oil be? Some of the most commonly-used are listed below:

• Olive oil
• Coconut oil
• Sunflower oil
• Sesame oil
• Jojoba oil
• Grapeseed oil
• Argan oil
• Rosehip oil

Of course the oil can also be used as a hair mask and body moisturiser, so no matter what oil you use, it's a great multi-purpose product.

Obviously some of these oils will cost more than others, some will be more easily available than others, and some will work better for you than others (so do tinker with the type and balance of oils, as well as the frequency of use, before abandoning the idea completely). So it's a trial and error process - and if all else fails, make sure you've chosen a food grade/organic oil so that you can at least cook with it.

If you don't fancy making your own bespoke mixture, lots of facial, hair and body oils already exist that you can buy straight off the shelf - ranging from the bargainous Miaroma (around £3 from Holland and Barrett) and Dove, to the luxurious MoroccanOil, Decléor and Jo Malone, via the midrange oils by Wella, Fushi, Weleda and the Body Shop.

Oil cleansing is a method I've only recently begun to try, and I'm seeing good results so far - so do give it a go if you're feeling at a loss! The starting point could be right there in your kitchen.

Fushi Cherry Seed Oil

RRP: £12 for 50ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Rich in vitamins and antioxidants, organic Cherry Seed oil provides natural, effective hydration. Cherry Seed oil is gorgeous emollient oil that is also rich in natural antioxidants, plus vitamins A and E. Cherry Seed oil is especially beneficial for acne-prone or inflamed skin. The vitamins and nutrients contained within the fruit are known to play an important role in collagen synthesis and skin healing processes. Yellow in colour with a hint of marzipan, the oil is abundant in oleic acid and linoleic acid, fatty acids that help restore and replenish the skin. The oil also works well as a carrier oil in aromatherapy. Add a few drops of the oil to your daily moisturiser and keep your skin ultra hydrated and to treat acne prone skin. Sourced from Malatya in central Turkey."

--Packaging--
This opaque glass bottle makes an elegant addition to any bathroom, but the plastic stopper (with a hole in it to let the oil out) is unreliable and frequently falls out. The best way to get it out is to run the opening of the bottle across the palm of your hand, keeping the bottle opening quite close to your palm at all times. Go over the entire palm of your hand twice to create a layer of oil, before rubbing into your face directly or mixing with your moisturiser.

--Application--
You can mix with moisturiser or use directly on the face. I'd perhaps recommend the former, as it may sink in more easily then (when the oil is applied alone, this takes longer).

--Appearance--
A beautiful golden oil that sinks invisibly into the skin.

--Scent--
A gorgeous and authentic aroma of marzipan. Nothing added to this! And who doesn't love a product which makes them smell like cake?

--Texture and consistency--
Not too thick itself, but does seem to take a long time to absorb. A shame.

--Effects on the skin--
As well as moisturising, this promises to reduce inflammation and benefit acneic skin. Happy to report that I have seen an improvement in my skin while using this.

--Value for money--
This compares most favourably with other facial oils on the market: Nuxe, perhaps the most famous, charges £14 for 50ml, while Weleda and Jurlique charge the same. Sanctuary, Green People and even Body Shop are even more expensive than that. I'm sure Waitrose won't mind me borrowing from their catchphrase when I say that this is a quality product, honestly priced, in spite of its flaws regarding texture and packaging. The aromatic smell gives a real boost in the morning and the results are there too. And I'm not just saying that because I was sent mine for free! Would recommend.



perfect partners
Beauty Totale for Skin, Hair and Nails, £15.26 
Thyme Tincture, £8

Johnson's Baby Oil

RRP: from £1.30/100ml

--What does the promo say?--

"Locks in moisture for baby soft skin. It's a silky soft moisturizer for silky soft skin. JOHNSON'S^® Baby Oil locks in up to ten times more moisture on wet skin than an ordinary lotion can on dry skin, leaving your baby's skin soft and smooth. This gentle oil is also easy to spread, so it's ideal for baby massage.

For baby:

• Moisturizes baby's delicate skin and helps protect from dryness
• Pure mineral oil forms a silky barrier to help prevent excess moisture loss
• Great for baby massage and parent-baby bonding
• Clinically proven mild and gentle formula
• Dermatologist and allergy-tested
• Great for your skin, too!

For you:

• Locks in up to ten times more moisture on wet skin than an ordinary lotion can on dry skin
• Use to soothe and relieve dry, rough patches
• Leaves skin glowing and baby soft
• Clinically proven mild."

--Packaging--

 The clear bottle combined with pink and blue colourings makes it easy to see how much is left and gives as unisex an approach as is possible (although a gender-neutral colour, such as yellow or white, would be even better). However, Johnson's run into problems when trying to promote this product as a product for adults due to the safety cap (tricky to get off when you're supposed to be applying it to wet skin right after a shower or bath!). In this case, a pump-action lid would be better.

 

--Usage instructions--

Johnson's advise massaging the oil all over the body for baby soft skin - ideally into wet skin for even greater amounts of moisture to be locked in. This is not problematic aside from the packaging issue mentioned above.

--Appearance--

A clear, quite runny oil which leaves no visible residue on the skin.

--Scent--

A powdery scent which is not unpleasant. The problem is that Johnson's Baby Oil is so ubiquitous that the scent is almost universally associated with babies! If the company is trying to target the product at women, they should perhaps consider adding a line of the same products with different scents - for example, a fresher or woodier scent - or indeed even a totally scentless range. However, saying this, the initial scent certainly doesn't linger, so wouldn't interfere with any perfume you may be wearing.

--Texture and consistency--

As mentioned, this oil is quite fluid, and sinks quite easily into the skin. It's not at all greasy, and its fast-acting mechanism means it's good for working women on the go.

--Effects on the skin--

Definitely locks in moisture for longer, with silker skin being noticed for days after just one application. Also makes a noticeable difference to distinctly dry or flaky skin, especially after sun exposure, and is as good for younger skin as it is for more mature skin. Truly a product for the whole family!

--Value for money--

A little of this product goes a long way, making it excellent value. However, a different dispensing mechanism would not only make it easier to use but also make it even better value, as it would reduce any wastage that may occur. The product also works well, completing the Holy Trinity of price, quality, and longevity. We'd even go as far as to say that if you used it on a regular basis (not even necessarily every day) you'd probably never get dry skin, ever. A great product to incorporate into every woman's bodycare routine.

perfect partners

24 Hour Body Lotion with Vitamin E, £3.05 

24 Hour Moisture Radiance Body Lotion with Shea & Cocoa Butters, £3.05

Baby Bedtime Oil, £2.80

Baby Softwash Extra Care, £3.35

Baby Lotion, £2.50

Skin Perfecting Oil Spray for Stretch Marks, from £9.99

Baby Soothing Naturals Nourishing Lotion, £3.35

24 Hour Moisture Hand Cream, £2.09

Moisture 2 in 1 Body Wash, £2.09

Baby Aloe Vera Oil, £3.35

Aura-Soma AEOS Cleansing Oil Dé-Maq

RRP: £39.98 for 75ml

--What does the promo say?--
"An oil-based cleanser containing a blend of organic and biodynamic essential oils, plant extracts, for skin that tends towards dehydration. Rich in Vitamin E and extracts from avocado oil help keep the skin hydrated. Natural oils from sesame seeds soften the skin and help in the removal of make-up for a deep down cleanse. Can also be used for removing eye make up."

--Packaging--
An opaque plastic bottle with a pump-action top that is so easy to control (unlike Dr Hauschka's products, whose pump action mechanisms are useless). Text on the bottle is also minimal, making the product look luxurious and uncluttered.

--Application--
One of Aura-Soma's retailers, Dolphins and Angels, recommends "[m]oisten[ing] cotton wool pads with water, add[ing] a few drops of the Dé-Maq cleanser and apply[ing] using upward sweeping movements over the face and neck. Repeat as necessary to remove all traces of dirt and make up. Use separate pads for each eye area when removing eye make up." However, I find it doesn't need to be this labour-intensive if you're in a rush: you can just use the pump action to drop five drops of oil into your palm, rubbing together over your palms to create a filmy layer, and then rubbing over your face before sweeping a dry cotton wool pad over.

--Appearance--
The oil is a golden yellow, non-shimmery colour that leaves no visible residues on the skin.

--Scent--
Sophisticated and not without finesse, the scent is luxurious without being too heavy. It's difficult to tell where this comes from, though - perhaps the rosewood, as I wouldn't say that the avocado or sesame oils are at all detectable. Certainly very pleasant and elegant at any rate.

--Texture and consistency--
Despite being an oil, I found that this was completely non-greasy and easy to wipe off with cotton wool.

--Effects on the skin--
It removes makeup effortlessly, but does not cleanse and remove makeup in one go - if you want to cleanse with it you'll need to repeat the process after removing makeup. However, it does cleanse well too and I may have even noticed a slight improvement in my acneic skin during the use of this product.

--Value for money--
At nearly £40 it is expensive (the brand is possibly punching above its weight a little - to put it into perspective, La Prairie, Sisley and Gatineau makeup removers cost this much) and I would arguably expect a product like that to cleanse and remove makeup in just one step. However, of the Aura-Soma products I've tried it is probably the one I'd be most likely to repurchase thanks to its luxuriousness and its efficacy and removing makeup, even though I don't normally spend anything like this much on makeup remover. Plus, we have to remember that all of these organic and biodynamic ingredients can't come cheap and we have to accept that you need to pay what something costs to make, first and foremost. Truly a spa experience at home, this bottle is likely to last a long time and not disappoint.

perfect partners
Gentle Exfoliant Yellow, £36
Enriching Moisturiser Blue, £59
Refreshing Hydrating Mist, £55
Dew Facial Wash, £40