How ethical is your beauty routine?

I recently did this quiz online, hosted by webzine Stylist. It asked about the ethics of my beauty routine, ranging from packaging to ingredients and stopping at a whole host of other topics along the way. I didn't get a very high score - and to be honest, I'm not surprised. Here's why:

Q1: How important is packaging when it comes to beauty products?
I'm not as conscientious about this as I should be, in truth - and I have no excuse. I enjoy brands such as Lush, which is a famous forerunner in terms of providing packaging-free and sustainably- and recyclably-packaged products, as well as offering initiatives to its customers that encourage this (if you bring in 5 empty pots, for example, they recycle them for you, and give you a free face mask to boot). I also try to use bar soap rather than the liquid kind that comes in pumps. It's true that some packaging-free products, or products that come in more sustainable forms, such as tins, are not always that practical, so I tend to steer away from them for this reason. However, I tend to be more driven by the product itself. Nevertheless, I definitely could be more ethical in the beauty product choices I make when it comes to packaging. The trouble is, most brands are not - which can make it difficult to avoid. This still isn't an excuse, though, as I already do a lot of my shopping online, which makes it easier to find ethical brands, such as SW Basics (with their glass bottles), Gallinée (with its paper wrapping), and Organic Essence (with its plastic-free deodorants). If you're more of a high-street shopper, you can return empty Guerlain products to John Lewis for recycling (and a discount on more Guerlain), purchase Neal's Yard products from their boutiques (which are housed in glass bottles), buy from L'Occitane (which emphasises refills and recyclable pouches), or use Beauty Kitchen's fully compostable wet wipes (which you can buy from Holland and Barrett). Yes To's wipes (which you can buy from Boots) also are completely biodegradable. Furthermore, plenty of makeup brands are packaging their products in bamboo and metal. So could I do better? For sure.

Q2: Do you look for ingredients that are responsibly sourced?
Truthfully, no. It's hardly ever a consideration and just comes down to a lack of effort on my part. FOR SHAME.

Q3: Is animal testing something you consider?
This was the most ridiculous question in the quiz by a country mile. Firstly, according to Cruelty Free International, "From 11 March 2009, the EU banned the testing, within the EU, of cosmetic ingredients – irrespective of whether there were non-animal alternatives. It had already banned the testing in the EU of cosmetic products. The bans are known as ‘the testing bans’. From 11 March 2013, the EU completed the ban on the sale of cosmetics animal-tested after that date anywhere in the world. The ban applies to both cosmetics products and ingredients, again irrespective of whether there are alternatives. It is known as the ‘marketing ban’."
For now, Britain is still in the EU, so this still applies. However, what about Brexit, I hear you ask?
Fret not. According to Speaking of Research, "The UK has some of the strictest animal research regulations in the world, guided by the Animals (Scientific Procedures) Act, 1986 (ASPA)[...]ASPA says that animal procedures can only:

• take place in research institutes or companies which have appropriate animal accommodation and veterinary facilities, and have been granted an establishment licence
• be part of an approved research or testing programme which has been given a project licence
• be carried out by people with sufficient training, skills and experience as shown in their personal licence (read more about getting a personal licence). Licences are only granted if:
  • the research cannot be done using non-animal methods
  • the minimum number of animals will be used
  • dogs, cats or primates are only used when other species are not suitable
  • any discomfort or suffering is kept to a minimum by appropriate use of anaesthetics or pain killer
  • the potential results are important enough to justify the use of animals (the harm-benefit analysis)
  • researchers and technicians conducting procedures have the necessary training, skills and experience
  • research premises have the necessary facilities to look after the animals properly (as laid down in a Home Office Code of Practice)."
  So one could hope that at least after Brexit the quality and ethical rigour of products made and sold in Britain might still be protected - although of course there are no guarantees.

So, no, this is certainly "more of an afterthought" or "something I forget to check" according to the quiz's possible responses. The point is, you don't have to think about it. The law has already thought about it for you. But most UK consumers still don't know this.
"Always [looking] for the Leaping Bunny logo" would be equally silly. Using and licensing the Leaping Bunny logo (even if certification is free) attracts a cost and many smaller brands simply can't afford it. Not having the logo therefore doesn't mean that a brand fails to meet Leaping Bunny criteria for ethical standards.

Q4: How natural are your beauty products?
I use the full range. Some pure unadulterated, others bulked by artificial agents. To my mind it would be foolish to rely on an over-simplistic 'natural = good, artificial = bad" dichotomy. I talk about this at length here.

Q5: What do you do with your products when you've used them up?
This is dependent on your answer to Q1. Naturally, if you've already chosen a brand with reusable or recyclable packaging, it's far easier to pick an ethical answer to this question.

Q6: How important is it for your beauty brands to have a cause?
Plenty of beauty brands - Lush, for one - have actually been criticised for "having a cause", so it seems they can't win! For me, it depends if having ethical ingredients/packaging counts as a cause *in itself*, or if this question means something different. So the wording and definition could be clearer. For many - perhaps including myself - if the brand *does* have ethical ingredients/packaging, does anything else matter? Is, say, a charity donation essential, nice to have, or just posturing and superfluous? For me, product quality will always be paramount.

So while I feel that my quiz answers are to a degree justifiable, they also illuminate areas where I could generally be more responsible. Probably true of most of us!

Post-Stoptober beauty

For those who are valiantly slogging their way to the end of Stoptober, or Sober for October - well done!

Afterwards is arguably most important, though. Stoptober is not meant to be a virtue-signalling month where you quit the cigs or booze for 30 days and then return to your old ways. The question is how to sustain it.

This should be a holistic approach that involves mind, habits, and body.

If you have given up alcohol this month, then this probably involves having quite a few drink-free days a week, and/or alternating alcoholic with non-alcoholic drinks when out, in a bid to reduce your overall consumption. For ex-smokers, it might involve having something to hold or fiddle with when you would normally smoke, or taking up a new hobby that will engage your hands. For both groups, it may involve reconsidering how much time you spend with certain friends, changing your route home from work, or finding coping strategies for stressful situations that would normally send you reaching for a corkscrew or lighter.

The power of mindfulness - extending to techniques such as hypnotherapy - is also surprising for its capacity to calm and rewire your mindset. This is easy and quick to do, and often free. Having prepared for birth using the iHypnobirth app, and used the Surf City Sleep Well app to improve sleep quality, I have seen noticeable results in terms of feeling calm, relaxed and prepared, as well as being able to develop clear strategies to help me fall and stay asleep more consistently. As you can imagine, there are plenty of apps to help you quit smoking or eat mindfully.

Wellness is just one part of health and beauty. Some people also like to continue the good work they have started in Stoptober using commercial products - such as whitening toothpaste to improve nicotine-stained teeth, or face creams containing vitamin C and antioxidants to boost skin quality (sagging and lines are just some results of smoking). You could also consider nail kits and nail whiteners to help reduce staining.

The effects of alcohol consumption (and, let's be honest, most Brits drink unhealthy amounts, even if this falls within social norms) are perhaps not as immediately or obviously visible physically, but they are there. Rosacea, for example, can be linked to alcohol consumption, as can obesity.

As a result, we should remember that beauty also starts from within. Consider drinking more water (alcohol dehydrates the skin), improving your diet and exercise plan (alcohol is just empty calories, after all), or even taking supplements to help detoxify (from a reliable retailer, of course), as alcohol deprives the skin of vital vitamins and nutrients. Some of the products linked to above can also help with this.

None of this is said to be preachy. None of us are perfect. And I know it isn't always that simple. I've tried every acne-busting product under the sun (well, nearly), been a clothing size 10 to 14, consume minimum dairy and have even given vegetarianism a go, but that hasn't stopped my face and body being plagued by spots from the age of 10. I'm now 32. (Thanks, PCOS!) The only thing that has improved my skin even remotely has been pregnancy! But we all have to do what we can. So if you've started with Stoptober - why not keep up your good work?

Beauty Byte: Massive £700 beauty giveaway!

In celebration of her birthday, renowned beauty blogger Michelle is giving away beauty products worth £700 on her blog, Thou Shalt Not Covet. You can enter here: http://thoushaltnotcovet.net/2015/06/12/my-big-birthday-giveaway-2015.

I have massive respect (and slight envy!) for people like Michelle who can actually make a living out of blogging, out of sheer passion and talent. Being a beauty journalist was always my dream, but I guess I just didn't have what it takes, or I was just unlucky. While I now gain massive fulfilment from another profession I love, it's great to know that there's still plenty of people out there willing to read and write quality content, especially as journalism (print in particular) continues its steady decline.

So get over to Michelle's blog, not only to have a chance of winning shedloads of amazing stuff, but also to keep the cause of quality journalism going.

Beauty Website Review: Instant Body Upgrade

With Christmas fading into a distant memory and summer holidays on the approach, thoughts often turn in January to the spare tyre sitting around our waists. How to shift it?! The problem with many diets or gyms is that we don't receive enough guidance and can easily fall off the bandwagon.

Donna Richards and Tora Cullip, health coaches, aim to provide an alternative through the Instant Body Upgrade programme, which is available for a one-off payment of £97. This payment gives access to the Instant Body Upgrade website, which supplies a host of resources and support from Donna and Tora themselves to help you get the body and confidence that you want. 

So what do you get for your £97? The three-pronged approach dealing with your mindset, metabolism and motivation is dealt with mainly through videos where Donna and Tora can talk directly to you and share their expertise. This allows you to see that their bodies really do look like the photos (!) and allows them to reassure you in a largely non-patronising way through their friendly hints, advice and tips. Inspiring fact sheets are also available for download, as are recipes to get your eating on track, and progress sheets to track your fitness and inch loss. Exercise videos, and Donna and Tora's responses to user comments, are equally valuable.

The nicest part about this programme is that it's got no gimmicks or fads attached. This is good simple healthy eating and exercise, packaged in a way that suits busy women and supported by Donna and Tora themselves. The diversity of resources available, presented using clear straightforward language, is another plus.

This is not to say that there are no possibilities for improvement. Firstly, as this is supposed to be a long-term lifestyle change, there need to be far more recipes available (rather than only a short ebook's worth). This could be easily achieved through having a recipe space available for users to upload their healthy finds and discuss recipes after trying them. Speaking of this kind of collaborative space, a forum page would be equally useful, allowing users to not only comment on individual pages but also interact with each other much more closely. However, as the Instant Body Upgrade site is merely a glorified Wordpress page, Donna and Tora would need to upgrade their website significantly to make this possible. Equally, a 'MyPlate' facility similar to that on LiveStrong would enable users to track their food intake in more detail, which is also important to a programme of this type.

Nevertheless, despite these suggested improvements and the fact that a 'body upgrade' can never be 'instant', access to this website is still worth the £97 price tag. It costs little more than a 3-month gym membership and has the added bonuses of free recipes and motivational support from professional coaches. The modifications mentioned above would make it even better value - but even as it is, it will see you well on your way to having something closer to the body you want by the time you have to hit the beach.

*Bianca's Beauty Blog was offered free website access by Donna and Tora.

Taking in your skin

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I hate exercise and have been through all of the excuses under the sun so as to get myself out of it. It's too hot out. Too cold out. I hate getting sweaty. The sofa is so comfortable and gym membership costs so much.

my gym

And yet I know exercise is so important - not just for our health but, on a more shallow level, our beauty and wellbeing too. Regular exercise has been proven to tone our bodies, help us lose weight, improve our skin condition, ease stress, make your hair healthier, create more collagen to stop wrinkles in their tracks, ameliorate sleep patterns and reduce bloating. But with autumn and winter just around the corner, the motivation to get outside and go for a run is bound to diminish. 

It was the motivation to exercise ALL year round - not just on days where it was sunny enough to go and chase some squirrels around my local park - that motivated me to join a gym in January (well, that and the post-Christmas flab). But unlike many January sign-ups, I've kept going to the gym and now go at least 3 or 4 times a week. It is expensive - but that encourages me to keep going to get the most for my money.

Happily, though, you have more choice in the UK than I do here in France: British gym memberships aren't held to the same restrictions and tend to be much cheaper. Britain is also better at special offers: Vibro Suite, for instance, is currently running a competition via its website to win four months' worth of free gym membership to celebrate its fourth birthday. Besides the contest, it also offers a free personal training session, and, throughout September, has waived all of the administrative fees usually associated with joining a gym. Plus, whenever you buy three personal training, beauty or sports therapy sessions, you'll get a fourth one for free, which adds further value. Additionally, if you're in charge of these sorts of benefits where you work, Vibro Suite runs special corporate deals whereby they'll waive the gym's administrative sign-up fees for your employees, reduce monthly membership fees, or even offer free membership depending on the deal you strike with them.

With September being the back-to-school season, it often feels like the beginning of a new year for many, meaning that it can be a good time to readjust your habits and change your lifestyle. There are good deals everywhere, so there's little excuse: MyGymCompare lets you compare prices for all of the gyms in your area, and the £30 deal they came up with for me (nearest my parents' house) looks a darn sight better than the going rate of €47 a month (that's £40 at today's exchange rate) that I pay in France. Just as good is comparison search engine The Gym Website, which got me a deal of £35 a month for a gym within walking distance. Even better are some of the deals on Groupon - such as a one-off payment of £10 for two months' access to Zumba classes.

So get yourself moving, and you could be taking in the sight of your new skin, hair and body in no time at all - which is much better than having to take in your clothes.

Cosmetics and Beauty News (March 2013)

Feeling plucky?
Tweezerman, maker of some of the best tweezers in the industry, has adopted Lindsey Vonn as its brand ambassador, and in celebration, is running a contest to win around £80 of Tweezerman tools. I've already entered - and you should too! Just check out the Tweezerman website for details.

You give me fever
 Hay fever is no joke, and as spring and summer come into view, plenty of people will be getting their supply of clean hankies out - there are more than 10 million UK sufferers seeking relief each year. ESPA's Resistance Oil range, which can be used in the bath, tries to combat hay fever by including tea tree and eucalyptus to boost our natural defences against pollen and other environmental aggressors. Fumakilla's Pollen Face Spray could also be a good investment - its ion polymers reputedly stop pollen from entering the eyes and nose by creating an invisible veil over the face. It can be applied over makeup, and one bottle contains around 160 applications. Sufferers may also wish to investigate The Bakewell Soap Company's Beekeepers' Delight soap, which is aimed at highly sensitive skin and those suffering from skin ailments. Containing goats' milk, oats, jojoba oil, beeswax and organic honey, it could just help to keep you feeling lovely, rather than a snotty and irritated mess - and at £4.95 a bar, it also won't break the bank.



Extra special cosmetics
As someone whose skin tone has always been ludicrously pale, I've often had trouble with high street brands when it comes to finding foundations, concealers and powders that make a reasonable match with my skin. However, those in this situation need look no further than EX1 Cosmetics, which promises to supply those with "Asian and exotic skin tones", thanks to its provision of "bespoke shades from very fair to deep olive". Department store prices may no longer prevent you from purchasing products that actually suit you - and you can buy from a variety of online retailers at present, including Lookfantastic, HQHair, and Beauty Expert.

Spray you love me

Ladies with special birthdays coming up (like myself...cough) may be hoping for a high-quality fragrance as a gift. However, some feel that the art of scent-making has been lost over the years as the industry becomes ever more commercialised. Former VP of Chanel and Manager of Jo Malone, Dom de Vetta, definitely feels this way, and has teamed up with rising perfumer Julie Massé to create Shay and Blue, which has just launched at Harvey Nichols. Made with real flowers, fruits and spices, the perfumes promise to create rich opulent experiences that are made in England with skill and passion. Perfumes will be blended seasonally according to what's growing in the UK, and all will be sold in smoky blue glass bottles. The six scents that are currently available include Atropa Belladonna (incorporating cassis, narcissus and vanilla), Sicilian Limes (containing salt limes, rosemary and moss), and Suffolk Lavender (mixing lavender, melon and pine). And with prices from £30, they cost no more than commercial perfumes either.

Other unique perfume gifts are available from Anna Sui, whose tin houses are just too adorable to pass up. Secret Wish, Flight of Fancy, and Fairy Dance now come in collectable metal boxes that you can keep even when the perfume itself is long gone, transforming into jewellery boxes thanks to the handy hooks inside. For £36, you get a tin box and a 50ml Anna Sui fragrance.

Curl creation
We girls don't always style our hair as often as we'd like, mostly due to the time constraints wrought by over-complicated styles. However, John Frieda has just launched a video in an attempt to help women create curly hair easily - and, in celebration, has also started a competition whereby you can win weekends away, girls' nights out, and luxury meals. You'd be silly not to enter :)

Had enough. Period.
Some women manage to get through the time of the month with ease, but others (as I did when I started) have immobilising pains that make them throw up and keep them off school or work once a month, which not even prescription painkillers (such as mefenamic acid) can always touch. The Bowen Technique aims to combat cramps in a drug-free and non-invasive way thanks to specialised massage with regular rests throughout the 30-60 minute treatment. Knowing how much pain periods can cause, I would try anything to get on with my life, and would encourage any other sufferers to do so as well.

Magic matrixyl
Another chronically female concern is anti-ageing, and the beauty world has gone mad with the news that magic ingredient matrixyl is the only one to really have any effect. How far this is really the case can probably only be ascertained through detailed examination of the research involved; however, should anyone wish to capitalise on this discovery, several high street brands already contain matrixyl, such as the ranges by No7's Protect and Perfect, Sarah Chapman, Erno Laszlo, Docteur Renaud, Marks and Spencer, and Olay's Regenerist. Online shopping also offers up a wealth of possibilities: try Dr Lewinn, Medik8, NeoStrata, Skin Doctors, and DuWop.

Weight and see

Weight management is an equally perennial problem for the fairer sex. The latest product to help with this is the Malory Band, acting like a belt that you wear around your waist, underneath your clothes, to help remind you of your target weight and stop you from eating so much that you'll spend the rest of the afternoon feeling like a beached whale on the sofa. The belt's fabric is washable, durable, and can even be worn in the shower. It also comes with a unique buttonhole system, meaning the belt can be tightened as you lose weight - and by continuing to wear the band, you can maintain your weight once you've reached your target. Of course, you also use it in conjunction with eating well and regular exercise, making it one of the healthiest systems out there. 

Along Came Betty
Benefit's coy vintage style has been aped by several brands over the years, including The Vintage Cosmetic Company, Too Faced, Hard Candy, and Betty Hula. Another 'Betty', in the form of Along Came Betty, tries to appeal in the same way and is now available at Tesco, but manages to stand out on the shelf thanks to its deliberately over-dramatic black and white photographs on the pack, and lower price points (prices start from £4.99). You never know when a cheaper alternative might be better than your usual product - and you haven't got much to lose by trying this cute brand.

We're off to see the wizard
With the recent release of Oz The Great and Powerful, OPI has released a line of nail polishes inspired by the film, all with Oz-like names: Lights of Emerald City, When Monkeys Fly, and Which is Witch? are just a few of them. All are priced at £11.50, but you can get a special set of 4 mini polishes for £13.95, which is a great way to test-drive a few at a lower price (specifically I Theodora You, Don't Burst My Bubble, Glints of Glinda, and What Wizardry Is This?). All together now: there's no place like home... 

Also on the nail varnish scene are gel polishes, with brands like COLLECTION leading the way. Hopefully a long-lasting high-shine finish is now available even for ladies who don't want to ruin their nails! COLLECTION's range of 15 colours is out in May and will cost just £3.20 per bottle. 

Our darling dads
While all of the above would make great gifts for mums, it's important to not forget our dads (especially with Fathers' Day on the approach in June). If your dad is into male grooming, you could try Crabtree and Evelyn's new sets, which contain shaving essentials and muscle soaks to name just a few and start from £8. The scents available are Sandalwood, Nomad, and West Indian Lime - not to mention the classic Gardeners range, providing gifts for surely every lifestyle.

Also available is ManCave Natural Grooming, which prices its vegan products (which all contain at least 12 essential oils) from a mere £3.99. With borage to moisturise, caffeine to energise, and willow bark to fight bacteria, high-quality products such as these will with luck ensure that our dads are kept in tip-top condition, and therefore there for us for a long time yet.

Be Zen
One of the most important things in life is surely to "keep calm and carry on". Naturally there are a host of products offering to help us do this, such as the recently-launched B/Attitude natural skincare products for face and body, which promise to fuse ancient traditions with sensory experiences thanks to ingredients such as ginseng, passion flower, juniper and green tea. Another brand, Caldrea, tries a similar tack with its aromatherapeutic line, which uses botanicals that include linden flower, angelica, and chia. These essential oils hopefully work on our minds as well as our bodies - as when our looks decay, it's only our minds we're left with. Wishing you a peaceful April :)

Cosmetics and Beauty News (February 2013)

Have an environmentally friendly Mothers' Day
Still searching for that perfect Mothers' Day gift in time for March 10th? Look no further than Environ's gift set, which promises to protect skin from environmental aggressors and fight ageing simultaneously. Its four 20ml products and one 50ml product allegedly give "real results" thanks to their vitamin-packed formulae, and the sizes are convenient for travel too. However, it's not easy to order, as you usually have to go through an Environ consultant, but do check www.iiaa.eu for stockists, or try websites such as Care Concept, Touch of Skincare and Ebay.

You could also try Beau Choix for your gifts this year, specifically its Nahbi Gold range, which features masks, cleansers, moisturisers, toner, and serum containing gold nano-particles. Claiming to reduce fine lines, heal sun damage, brighten skin and reactivate elasticity, the products also contain organic green tea and frankincense extracts. With products starting from £25, it's affordable too. Mums can try the deep cleansing 10-day Sheet Mask Set for this price - and why not get one for yourself too?

Tales of London
In a similar vein to Molton Brown's Global Heroes set, Ashleigh and Burwood has now set out to express a little bit of London in a range of scents for the home. The Tales of London range consists of six scents, each named after various London neighbourhoods, and all are available in candle and reed diffuser form. Covent Garden evokes its famous flower markets thanks to notes of rose, jasmine, galbanum and rosemary, while Knightsbridge goes for fresh and sophisticated with moss, ginger, basil, grapefruit and lime. Buckingham uses rose, mandarin, bergamot, and patchouli to create an air of decadence and royalty, and Westminster continues the historic theme with black pepper, amber and lemon. Piccadilly is more playful with vanilla, tonka bean, candy floss, freesia and peach, and Portobello completes the range with mimosa, cardamom and musk. Definitely sounds better than the smell of cigarette smoke that pervades our apartment block...

Sustainable spray
Speaking of the banishment of bad smells, some of you have probably already seen the adverts on TV extolling the virtues of the incredible shrinking deodorant cans in the brands made by Unilever (Sure, Dove and Vaseline). The new compressed aerosol contains the same amount of deodorant as exists in the normal-sized cans, but contains less propellant, and thus takes up 50% less space in your bathroom cabinet. The smaller can also reduces the amount of aluminium and the carbon footprint of each can by 25%, and the fact that more can be transported at once also means a reduction of Unilever lorries on the road by 35%. As one famous retailer says, every little helps...

Gimme a head with hair, long beautiful hair 
Ever heard of the Brazilian blow-dry? London's Michaeljohn Salon has now launched a formaldehyde-free alternative, the Biolustre Revamp Smoothing Treatment. Specially formulated to rebuild weakened hair, it's a treatment for damaged locks that's packed with replenishing keratin to make hair feel nourished, shiny and soft for up to 14 weeks. Its patented polymer links the keratin with the hair to create a permanent protective seal that penetrates the hair shaft and bonds to the hair's inner cortex. This sounds perfect for hair like mine that gets greasy at the roots but dry everywhere else - but sadly it's only available in their Mayfair salon as yet, and not as a commercial product for at-home use.

However, it's far less expensive than another of the latest innovations to hit my inbox recently. Truffle, by Fuente, is a shampoo and hair conditioner system that uses diamond dust, meteorite and white truffle to create an 'intelligent' product that restores every hair type to top condition. The ingredients contain minerals that are extremely suited to human hair and scalps, and took four years to develop into a usable at-home formula. All of these top ingredients come at a price, though - the shampoo and conditioner set costs £275 for half a litre of product.

Much more within budget is FAST - a fortified amino scalp therapy that promises to almost double the rate of hair growth. Great for people like me whose hair grows slowly, FAST took 15 years to develop and is suitable for all hair types (e.g. curly) and people (men, women and children). I'd love to see my hair grow at the extra 2 inches a month it proposes, and at £24.99 for 600ml, it's luxurious without being out of reach for the recommended daily use. It's also completely organic and paraben-free, which is a bonus for those who consider these aspects to be important. I'll definitely be checking it out during my next visit to the UK.

Not just a pretty face

I'm already enamoured with new brand Wild About Beauty, and they've just launched their newest collection, which includes limited edition nail varnishes, and a palette entitled Safari Nights. Featuring corals, pistachios and bronzes, these new shades should see you through the spring and into the summer season. The polishes, named Flora, Martin and Tanwen, are free of traditional nail varnish ingredients such as formaldehyde and toluene, and the paraben-free multi-functional Safari Nights palette features gold and copper eyeshadows in powder and cream formats, as well as nude highlight, blush and lip colours to suit any skin tone. But it's about more than just the face, with Wild About Beauty donating £4 to the Born Free Foundation from the sale of every Safari Nights palette.

Also new on the cosmetics block this season is Clinique's Chubby Stick Shadow Tint for Eyes, which follows the international success of the Chubby Stick for lips. Ever-practical and available in a range of candied hues, they're out now at £19 each. Make sure you don't miss out!

In addition, two beauty brains have recently launched an online version of beauty concept BeautyMART. Anna-Marie Solowij (beauty writer) and Millie Kendall (of Ruby and Millie fame) have created magazine-style pages that play on a loop, featuring must-have products backed up by expert tips. Unlike with a magazine, however, you can shop straight from the page - and to me this sounds like an important future step for the magazine industry.

The best of British
Spa brand ESPA has recently announced that it has joined forces with the English National Ballet to create new products and improve existing ones. With both focusing on British heritage, and on quality performance beautifully delivered, this seems like a perfect partnership, and natural next stage for ESPA in the light of their previous collaborations with artists: past links have included chocolatier William Curley and designer Julie Verhoeven. Dancers have been busily testing products and providing feedback to shape ESPA's future offerings, with the brand's Replenishing Facial Oil and Soothing Bath Oil already receiving compliments. Waiting with bated breath to see what the second act holds for this duet.

Exposure to second-hand smoke reduced - but still too high

The latest European Commission report on smoke-free environments finds that we are doing well in terms of cutting down second-hand tobacco smoke, but still could do better. Twenty-eight per cent of Europeans were exposed to second-hand smoke in bars in 2012, which is a massive reduction compared to 2009's 46%. The report also shows that the economic impact of indoor smoking bans has been limited, neutral, and even positive over time; however, some member states are still lagging behind in terms of regulation and subsequent enforcement. According to conservative estimates, over 70,000 adults in the EU died due to exposure to tobacco smoke in 2002, with many of them being non-smokers who were exposed to second-hand smoke in the workplace - so any reduction does signify real progress. Happily, all member states report that they have adopted measures to protect citizens against exposure to tobacco smoke, although enforcement is still a problem in some places. If you care about the health of your friends and family, you'll stop smoking - or at least stop smoking around them.

Cosmetic Contemplations: Beauty Bargains

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As befits my role here as a beauty blogger, I love trying as many new beauty products as I can get my hands on. But while I do get sent lots of lovely things for free (perfume from Grasse has arrived in the mailbox this morning), I too am of limited means and so am always on the hunt for bargainous products. So how can you get the best deal? Here are my tips:

1. Shop in the country of origin. As I noted recently in my post about Dr Hauschka's Rejuvenating Mask, importation costs inevitably add to the retail price of a product. Dr Hauschka's products, for instance, cost around €20 more in the UK than in their country of origin (Germany). So if you can, get your products directly from the host country: shop when you go there, or give money to a friend who's going and get them to purchase for you.
2. Wait a while after a product has been launched. Occasionally, products will have promotional launch prices. However, most of the time they will be more expensive at their launch and then prices will calm down later. Often, it's worth waiting.
3. Look out for special deals. Some pharmacy chains are particularly good at offering deals - when you buy your preferred product, you may get something for free with it (I bought an Estée Lauder foundation last year and got the matching full-size concealer gratis), or the pharmacy may offer discounts on bulk purchases (such as buying 2 or 3 of the same product at once). Boots is pretty good at this, but so are French pharmacies, which can be particularly handy if you are following the advice detailed under point 1.
4. Hunt for lookalike products. Sometimes when you're really strapped for cash you just can't afford the latest brand-name product that you've got your eye on. However, plenty of people are in the same situation and can report back on products that do the same job for less money. One of my fave finds is Sephora's Colorful Duo vs. Nars eyeshadows - but you can find lots of other tips on discussion fora online, such as MoneySavingExpert.com's "Cheap Smellalikes" thread, which offers alternatives to expensive perfumes.
5. Use Google Shopping for the best prices. Google Shopping is basically my best friend. Type in the product you want, and they'll find just about all the retailers selling it, which you can rank by price (with or without postage costs). Google also for reviews of the retailers if you are unsure about their reputation - this will also alert you to any retailers that may be selling fakes.
6. Wait for the January sales. This applies to online and in-store sales; you can often get brilliant bargains. This January, I got the Benefit Cabana Glama palette for a mere €18,50 (£16) at Sephora, as opposed to its usual retail price of €37 (£31.99).
7. Search for discount vouchers. More commonly available in relation to online transactions, discount voucher websites can get you codes for all kinds of things from free postage and extra freebies to money off your order. Reliable websites include Voucher DiscountCode, VoucherCodes, and MyVoucherCodes.
8. Buy "secondhand". This one is a bit more fraught with risk: we're all familiar with the world of product expiry dates and the potential risk of infection from using products that have already been used by others. However, I've had so few problems (and even then only very minor issues) that I've been happy to "buy secondhand" before now and would do it again. Quite often on websites like Ebay, you will find products being sold that have only been used once or twice. Because of this, you can have the product you want at a heavily discounted price when it's essentially as good as new. Some products will also be ex-display and will be sold at a reduced rate for this reason.
9. Use group buying sites and gift sites for beauty treatments. Spa breaks can often seem so out of reach - but thanks to group buying sites and gift websites, which have been able to negotiate special deals on your behalf, there's a chance that you'll be able to pamper yourself for only a few pounds.
10. Grab free samples whenever and wherever you can. Sign up to free sample newsletters, check brand websites, 'like' your favourite brands on Facebook and Twitter, and shop for your favourite products in department stores or on websites where you know they give samples with purchases. That way, you'll always be aware of competitions or special giveaway events, and if you've had the chance to try a product before you buy the full size you'll know if you like it or not - and if you don't, then that's a massive saving.

Cosmetics Contemplations: Knowing Your Beauty Alphabet

To beauty bloggers and columnists everywhere, 2012 will surely be remembered as the year of the BB cream (I'm still busy trialling a huge quantity of them; prepare for a post on a battle of the BBs in 2013!).

To some, it could still seem slightly baffling as to what a BB cream even is exactly: just about every brand going has jumped on the bandwagon, and all of this new information could seem a little overwhelming. It's important to note that there is a clear difference between a tinted moisturiser and a BB cream: tinted moisturisers obviously moisturise (and with that comes anti-ageing qualities), but also offer coverage equivalent to a light foundation. They often contain sunscreen as well. BB creams are supposed to do all of this and more, and to my mind any extra qualities should be quantifiable - not just something vague like added radiance. BB actually stands for "blemish balm", so the first thing on the list should be an ingredient that actively combats blemishes (whether this is tea tree, salicylic acid, or another spot-fighting agent). They can also act as a makeup primer, meaning that this is another step that BB cream users can skip. In Asia, where the creams are extremely popular, they frequently contain a whitening agent, which understandably doesn't go down too well in Europe. In the West, BB is often said to stand for the far more woolly "beauty balm", which means that many products given this label are little more than tinted moisturisers with a different name. To me, that is a real shame, as there is little worse to me in the world of consumerism than shoppers being out-and-out conned. 

However, this bombardment of information is set to become even more bewildering in 2013 thanks to the inception of CC and, yes, even DD creams. So what are the differences between DD creams, CC creams, BB creams, and tinted moisturisers? 

CC can stand for "complete correction", implying that these would be good for those wishing to blur pigmentation and scars. However, CC is also reported to stand for colour correction, complexion control, and various combinations of these words, making them far less distinct from our friends the BB creams. They are essentially supposed to be revamped versions of BB creams - doing all that they do, but with more radiance, more and longer-lasting coverage, and with a lighter texture. In addition, they are meant to have an even lighter texture, and come in different tones for different needs, in the manner that we are already used to with concealers and primers (pink, yellow, blue, green and lavender, to correct redness, dullness, and so on).

The DD creams are meant to provide us with our daily defense. These, though, are not for the face, but for the feet and body. Given the battering my feet seem to get each day even when wearing flat shoes, this is a revolution that I am looking forward to. As well as softening the toughest skin like regular body creams, the more heavy-duty DD creams also promise to reduce other body blemishes, such as stretch marks.

Amazingly, AA creams also already exist (although they are far less common). These can theoretically be used by people with any skin type, and typically contain avocado, alpha lipoic acid, allantoin, and vitamin A to help with anti-ageing and general skin condition. Further to this, there are even whispers on the wind of EE (early elimination) creams - although it seems that very little is known about these at present.

You could ask why all of these categories are even significant. For genuinely new types of cream, it should be easy to distinguish these from others and not become confused. For other creams that are easy to mix up with others, surely it shouldn't matter what they are called or marketed as if they are right for your skin? 

However, to my mind, it does matter - firstly from the point of view of cost. Clinique's BB cream is £25, while its tinted moisturiser is only £21.50. This also works for more affordable brands: Nivea's tinted moisturiser costs around £3.50, but its BB cream is closer to £6. If the BB cream genuinely offers different benefits, then a higher price can perhaps be justified - but if there is no difference at all (as is often the case in the West, whose brands frequently put notoriously little effort into their BB creams), then why should the consumer pay more for what is essentially just the bandwagon of a new trend, even if the difference is in name only?

Then there is the basic matter of integrity and transparency, and respect for the customer. If you treat your customers like idiots, and they find out, they will vote with their feet.

So my advice is this: don't touch a BB, CC, or DD cream with a bargepole unless you know full well what you're buying, and can justify the cost, knowing that the product is genuinely different to existing concepts. I therefore offer this handy "cut-out-and-keep" guide, just the right size to keep in your purse, so that you know what you're getting:

Type of cream	This cream should :
BB	Moisturise, anti-age, have an SPF, offer light coverage or better, combat blemishes
CC	Moisturise, anti-age, have an SPF, offer medium coverage or better, combat blemishes and scars, come in different tones for different needs
DD	Be for the feet and body, intensively moisturise, reduce body blemishes

And as jokes abound regarding the similarity of these cream names compared to the nation's bra sizes, it's my hope that retailers and manufacturers will wise up and begin to inform consumers better about their choices. That, after all, is why I started blogging - and rest assured that as soon as more information about EE creams (and who knows? FF creams, GG creams...) becomes available, I will be right here waiting for you.

Cosmetics and Beauty News (January 2013)

Bejewelled, British style
I don't often post about jewellery and accessories on here - but in the interests of supporting a new British business, I thought I'd draw your attention to Heather and Grace's new range of stunning yet affordable jewellery. With pearl-effect bracelets priced at just £5, you can also get your mitts on other Accessorize-style bits and bobs, including brooches, earrings and badges. A perfect gift for any occasion - and you'll be supporting an independent business to boot. 

Brushing your way to beauty
We all know that we should brush our teeth regularly, and that many dentists recommend electric toothbrushes for the deepest possible clean. It therefore doesn't surprise me that a new market is now opening up for toothpastes that are designed to work with your electric toothbrush for an even brighter smile. Theramed Pro Electric is just one of these, offering three low-abrasive silica toothpaste types depending on your needs (whitening, active clean, and sensitive). This is all very well if these toothpastes genuinely do offer something different to conventional brands - but with a price point of around £2.99 (which is roughly the same as that of normal toothpaste), I'd hazard that electric toothbrush users have little to lose by trying Theramed's version. I'll definitely be trying to get my paws on some, given that my attempts to whiten my teeth are invariably a part of my daily routine in any case.

Everything fades away...
...so runs a song by Mariah Carey. With luck, her new OPI collection won't fade too fast! This leading nail brand has teamed up with the popstrel to create eight new nail shades. The new collection includes four new Sand Lacquers for a matte yet textured finish, with added reflective sparkle, and the sultry yet innovative colours available (black with red sparkles, anyone?) should mean there is something for everyone. The collection of four mini Sand Lacquer shades is also priced at an affordable £12.95, making for a cheerful treat come payday.

Nail trends of 2013
The nail world is changing all the time, and while in 2011 gels were all the rage, and in 2012 it was all about wraps, some exciting new concepts are coming to the fore for 2013. For instance, China Glaze has launched a nail lacquer called Tranzitions, which reacts when a clear top coat is applied, creating a new second colour. This allows all sorts of patterns to be created with just one swipe of the brush. Both possible shades are indicated on the neck of the bottle, so no surprises - making for a fabulously innovative follow-up to similar products (such as No7's Stay Perfect Matte Top Coat). 

Even more creative is the concept of nail varnish rental. This sounded a bit too wacky to work when I first heard about it, but the more I consider it, the more it makes sense. Lacquerous, which launched officially at the end of 2012, allows you to rent the latest designer nail colours for a fraction of their retail value. All bottles are hygienically cleaned and sterilised before loan, and you must send them back in good condition at the end of the loan period, or risk being charged the full RRP. Alternatively, should you wish to keep the varnish, you can choose to pay the full retail value anyway. To my mind this is brill: how many of us have got too many old varnishes languishing in drawers that we can't bear to throw out? This system helps to alleviate ennui, be on trend, eliminate waste, and provide the opportunity for purchase if liked. Lamentably, it's only available in the US at present, but I can see the concept taking off on these shores soon. A solution to a first-world problem if I ever saw one.

At-home skin rituals
It's normal to sit at home feeling rubbish during January: I've already been signed off work for two days thanks to a shocking cold/flu/plague type thing, and have just had a lovely night in the toilet due to food poisoning or possibly even gastroenteritis (if the pharmacist down the road is to be believed). But there's no need to pay silly money to go to a spa to make yourself feel better, as with BareMinerals you can do it for free. Facialist Abigail James, who has fifteen years' experience, is working with BareMinerals to provide tutorial videos that can be viewed from the comfort of your home. This has the added benefit of you being able to see what BareMinerals' new January products (Multi Wrinkle Repair Serum, Extra Firming Neck cream & Intensive Glow Pads Brightening Treatment) look like on before shelling out the requisite cash.

It's actually quite easy being green
Contrary to Kermit the Frog, being green has got ever easier over the past few years due to the proliferation of now-iconic brands such as Green People. They're also helping to look after us during the winter months thanks to their newest line of body products. Their £19.95 body butter contains a host of good things, including cranberry, rosehip and pomegranate oils; omega 3 and 6; and Fairtrade lemongrass and rosemary. All of this promises to improve elasticity, reduce scars, anti-age, and protect dry skin. Also available is their sugar scrub at the same price, which, as well as helping to slough away dead skin cells, also contains moisturising agents such as shea butter. Both are certified organic, too, getting you off to a great start in 2013. Vaseline's Intensive Rescue range is equally indispensable in winter: with prices kicking off at just £2.99, their range of body lotions, repair balms and hand creams come with a sun protection factor, which is just as important in the colder months.

Sunday Sanctuary
In spite of all the great at-home products listed above, there are also some excellent free options, such as the Sunday Sanctuarys at Bar Galante on Sloane Avenue. Ladies can come along every Sunday between 1pm and 3pm and be pampered gratis with products from Bliss Spa, as well as being treated to classic films, Champagne Bellinis, and Argentinian canapés. Slippers and dressing gowns will also be available for use. To book your place, email rsvp[at]bargalante[dot]com - if I lived in London, I'd be there in a heartbeat!

Saving sharks with Chantecaille
Chantecaille's makeup palettes are well-known for their philanthropic aspect, and their latest one is no exception: 5% of the sales of their Save The Shark eye and cheek palette will go to conservationist group BLOOM. Inspired by spring runway colours and the freshness of the ocean, the palette consists of four cool shades: Great White (beige), Grey Reef (sandy grey), Black Tip (ocean blue) and Sea Anemone (coral). 

You're beautiful
Should you be wishing to start dropping hints to loved ones on the approach of the next big occasion in your life (or simply 'just because'), look no further than the packages offered by Michaeljohn Salon and Medispa: available exclusively in February, all packages (starting price £100) include a shampoo, cut and finish, a manicure, and a pedicure. Those willing to splash out on the £200 package also receive a bikini wax, eyelash tint and eyebrow threading session in addition to this. For those who just want to stay in the spa, the £140 package provides a warm oil massage with a manicure and pedicure. For an extra £15, the massage is replaced by a revitalising facial. For £200, you get all four, along with an eyelash tint and brow shape. Finally, the £150 package combines the best of both with a manicure, pedicure, salon blow dry, and a professional makeup session. I can assure you that these packages are top value (based on the eye-watering price of treatments here...), and that you are sure to have an unforgettable experience.

Fragrance news
The latest addition to Molton Brown's "Navigations Through Scent" series has just been announced, with Mahina taking inspiration from the sun-soaked lifestyle of Tahiti. Continuing with the concept of the unisex scent, Mahina uses tiare, vanilla and cedarwood to create a balanced fragrance for men and women. To celebrate the launch, Molton Brown has teamed up with Beach Tomato to offer lucky competition winners a 7-night trip to Tahiti, with goody bags for runners-up. Perfect for escaping the drizzle!

Other gorgeous-looking perfumes that have just hit the shelves include Guess Girl (raspberry nectar, melon, bergamot), Heidi Klum Surprise! (mandarin, pink pepper, benzoin), and Halle Berry Closer (waterlily, violet, cashmere musk).

Beating Botox parties
Worryingly little regulation exists regarding who can and cannot administer anti-ageing treatment Botox, leading to the existence of 'Botox parties' thanks to the proliferation of DIY kits for sale online. I've spoken before about my worries that people out there are actually stupid enough to consider injecting their own faces - and that web services are actually willing to facilitate this at-home idiocy. Thankfully, the Royal College of Surgeons agrees, and they too have spoken out against this lack of legislation. They call for a formal body to cover aesthetic practice and to see dermal fillers reclassified as medical devices, in order to ensure safety. In my view, the sooner this comes along, the better.