M Micallef Art Collection Rouge 2013

RRP: €185/100ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Parfums M Micallef...is announcing the launch of the new ART COLLECTION with a duo of gourmand and sensual fragrances: Rouge N°1 and Rouge N°2...The M Micallef Company gives priority to qualitative and natural ingredients in its fragrances...Martine Micallef has reinterpreted the Art Deco fundamentals [combining] geometrical figures, cubic cap and bottle adorned with circular shaped Swarovski Crystal Rocks. Floral-fruity eau de parfum Rouge N°1 combines delicious yellow fruit and a generous bunch-of-flowers heart, warmed by the vanilla and white musk base. Oriental-floral eau de parfum Rouge N°2 mixes the refinement of a bunch of jasmine, orchids and violets with oriental scents of amber, vanilla and animal notes."

--Packaging--
The samples sent to me for free by M Micallef were just plastic vials. However, it's true that the bottles themselves look very impressive. My only worry is that this extravagance in the packaging could drive up the price of the perfume itself.

--Application--
Spritz onto pressure points to have the scent linger all over your body.

--Scent--
The Rouge N°1 is, in my view, far too heavy, evoking images of overly made-up old ladies and retro film stars (and sadly not in a good way). I suspect that the overbearing ylang ylang is responsible for this, with the other aspects of the scent not getting a look-in. Perhaps purchase for your grandmother!

On the other hand, Rouge N°2 is a delight, and perfect for young ladies or the young-at-heart. Sparkling and uplifting, it is carried on the blissful wings of violet, citrus and blackcurrant. Vanilla and jasmine ensure it isn't too sharp, while nutmeg and amber make sure it isn't sickly sweet. Unique and perfectly balanced.

--Longevity--
M Micallef's perfumes are made with very high-quality ingredients, so while you may wish to reapply once during the day just to get that burst of the head notes again, it's not strictly necessary, since even though you stop smelling it, it does last all day.

--Value for money--
On the one hand, I can't blame you for the sharp intake of breath that I myself experienced upon realising how expensive M Micallef's fragrances are. Alongside the absolute cost, relatively speaking I can see why people might want to go for a bigger name: for a similar price, you can choose eaux de parfum from brands such as Giorgio Armani, Guerlain, Yves St Laurent or Acqua di Parma. On the other hand, such a quantity (remember we are talking about a 100ml bottle here) would last you an incredibly long time - with daily use, I'd estimate a minimum of 18-24 months. Rouge N°2 is a unique scent using high-quality ingredients that would give you a kick out of using a limited edition perfume whose fragrance you really love every day for nearly two whole years. Plus, you'd have the moral satisfaction of supporting a smaller parfumière, as opposed to one of the big boys. The choice is yours.

M Micallef perfumes can be purchased in the UK at Fortnum and Mason, as well as at Harrods (at Roja Dove's).

M Micallef Royal Vintage Eau de Parfum

RRP: from €76 for 30ml

--What does the promo say?--

"The perfume for men with timeless sophisticated elegance. Part of the EXCLUSIF collection which gathers exceptional fragrances for men and women, ROYAL VINTAGE offers a very subtle fragrance: opening on tonic scents of pink berries and bergamot, the assertive notes of cypress and patchouly are lightened by the softness of leather and musk notes. ROYAL VINTAGE is a perfume for men with timeless sophisticated elegance."

--Packaging--

Sample sizes of this were kindly sent all the way from Grasse, the perfume-lovers' capital. These took the form of a tiny glass bottle with a black lid, and an equally tiny black plastic vial, with white writing. Black plays a prominent role in the real bottle, along with silver, in a circular design resembling a retro record or vintage car wheel - both perfectly appropriate to the Royal Vintage theme.

--Application--

Your fella can spritz this behind his ears, and under arms if desired. To be used sparingly (see more under 'scent').

--Appearance--

The scent has a lemon-yellow colour in the bottle, but of course dries invisibly on the skin.

--Scent--

This is a strong scent that really carries and lasts all day, so you don't need much. It keeps things simple with six key elements: musk, cypress, bergamot, patchouli, leather, and red berries. Amazingly, all of these elements are extremely well-balanced and definitely detectable in the fragrance, which is unusual, as quite often commercial fragrances claim to contain several elements, only for just one or two to be really prominent, overriding all of the others. The bergamot helps to give a citric dimension, while the leather gives an impression of vintage cars. Patchouli, musk and cypress combine to create that traditional fern-like 'masculine' scent, which is often provided by the equally fresh and forest-like vetiver in other scents. The red berries are less detectable, but are definitely there once the fragrance has had more time to develop, without making Royal Vintage seem too fruity or feminine. However, him indoors says he still wouldn't go out of his way to buy it, preferring Fahrenheit by Dior or Terre d'Hermes by Hermes for their respective blends.

--Longevity--

As above; easily lasts all day without reapplication, making it a rare pearl in the fragrance world.

--Value for money--

This scent retails at a price that is on a par with other high-end brands, such as Penhaligon's. I think its longevity and balanced blend makes it worth the price, and thus a brilliant gift for any of the men in your life (Father's Day, anyone?).