M Micallef Art Collection Rouge 2013

RRP: €185/100ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Parfums M Micallef...is announcing the launch of the new ART COLLECTION with a duo of gourmand and sensual fragrances: Rouge N°1 and Rouge N°2...The M Micallef Company gives priority to qualitative and natural ingredients in its fragrances...Martine Micallef has reinterpreted the Art Deco fundamentals [combining] geometrical figures, cubic cap and bottle adorned with circular shaped Swarovski Crystal Rocks. Floral-fruity eau de parfum Rouge N°1 combines delicious yellow fruit and a generous bunch-of-flowers heart, warmed by the vanilla and white musk base. Oriental-floral eau de parfum Rouge N°2 mixes the refinement of a bunch of jasmine, orchids and violets with oriental scents of amber, vanilla and animal notes."

--Packaging--
The samples sent to me for free by M Micallef were just plastic vials. However, it's true that the bottles themselves look very impressive. My only worry is that this extravagance in the packaging could drive up the price of the perfume itself.

--Application--
Spritz onto pressure points to have the scent linger all over your body.

--Scent--
The Rouge N°1 is, in my view, far too heavy, evoking images of overly made-up old ladies and retro film stars (and sadly not in a good way). I suspect that the overbearing ylang ylang is responsible for this, with the other aspects of the scent not getting a look-in. Perhaps purchase for your grandmother!

On the other hand, Rouge N°2 is a delight, and perfect for young ladies or the young-at-heart. Sparkling and uplifting, it is carried on the blissful wings of violet, citrus and blackcurrant. Vanilla and jasmine ensure it isn't too sharp, while nutmeg and amber make sure it isn't sickly sweet. Unique and perfectly balanced.

--Longevity--
M Micallef's perfumes are made with very high-quality ingredients, so while you may wish to reapply once during the day just to get that burst of the head notes again, it's not strictly necessary, since even though you stop smelling it, it does last all day.

--Value for money--
On the one hand, I can't blame you for the sharp intake of breath that I myself experienced upon realising how expensive M Micallef's fragrances are. Alongside the absolute cost, relatively speaking I can see why people might want to go for a bigger name: for a similar price, you can choose eaux de parfum from brands such as Giorgio Armani, Guerlain, Yves St Laurent or Acqua di Parma. On the other hand, such a quantity (remember we are talking about a 100ml bottle here) would last you an incredibly long time - with daily use, I'd estimate a minimum of 18-24 months. Rouge N°2 is a unique scent using high-quality ingredients that would give you a kick out of using a limited edition perfume whose fragrance you really love every day for nearly two whole years. Plus, you'd have the moral satisfaction of supporting a smaller parfumière, as opposed to one of the big boys. The choice is yours.

M Micallef perfumes can be purchased in the UK at Fortnum and Mason, as well as at Harrods (at Roja Dove's).

Lolita Lempicka Forbidden Flower

RRP: from £27/30ml @ www.slapiton.co.uk

--What does the promo say?--
"Forbidden Flower Eau de Parfum includes an Absinthe Flower fragrance, which is natural and voluptuous, innocent and stunning, yet emits the occasional crisp while often sensual floral notes. The Absinthe Floral bouquet unveils a cascade of green, bracing and acidic notes from its Strawberry Leaf and Mimosa Stem scents. Not as innocent as it seems... the peony is a radiant, full flower with disturbing sensuality that mixes beautifully with the powdery round character of Violet. Aniseed Flower blends subtly with this mixture of petals, releasing its absinthe aroma that boost our desire for carnal delights. As the blossom then develops into a fruit, its bottom notes unveil a luscious warmth with a fruity sweetness, and a musky scent that is enveloped in a hint of almond and sour cherry with berry accents."

--Packaging--
Glorious. Like Nina Ricci and Viktor and Rolf put together, but x500%. Golden and embellished, the slightly kooky company logo adorns the apple-shaped bottle for even more flourish. Quite clearly no effort or time has been squandered here; the result is magnificent.

--Application--
Spritz onto pulse points for maximum diffusion and impact (behind ears, onto wrists, onto chest).

--Appearance--
A clear liquid with no hue or sparkle.

--Scent--
Really unusual: fruity and musky, with unexpected tones beneath. I wish the absinthe were more detectable, but maybe it's doing more work beneath the surface than I realise. The violet is barely there, and that's probably a good thing: again, it's probably doing its part somewhere, and if it were any more full-on the fragrance would be too sweet and sickly. Excellent for any woman with a sense of fairytale and fun. However, it unfortunately develops into something more conventional, which is a shame.

--Longevity--
Sadly not as good as I had hoped :( Expect to reapply this once or twice a day.

--Value for money--
Good if you shop around but you could easily get your wallet back screaming and crying. Do your research first: it's worth having, but only at the best possible price.

perfect partner
Forbidden Flower Beauty Body Lotion, €38,60

Yves St Laurent Parisienne Eau de Parfum

RRP: from £34 for 30ml

--What does the promo say?--
"The portrait of a woman incredibly free. Free to think, free to act. She was not born in Paris, but Paris adopts her, because she conveys the joy of living and loving in the moment. A precious flacon, intricately carved like the labyrinth of Parisian streets, as soft as the sheets she has just left behind, as pink as an early morning sky, as couture as the YSL label on black leather. A grand floral with a woody structure, luminous even in its mystery, PARISIENNE is the perfume of ultra femininity, warmed by the touch of the man who embraced her. The top note adds the shine of vinyl, an ultra modern wink to gloss, varnish or the metal of a spike heel, before the tartness of cranberry adds a point of bitter sharpness - the evocation of a certain impertinence softened by sparkling, succulent, fruity blackberry, symbol of an epicurean PARISIENNE. The floral heart beats wildly with the absolute femininity of the Damask rose, which harmonizes perfectly with the powdery violet, sensual and carnal like leather worn by Kate Moss. In contrast, the peony gives a breath of PARISIENNE youth and a hint of morning freshness. The base note brings tumult and intensity in its woody wake. First with patchouli, the ultimate in mystery. And when the masculinity of vetiver flirts with the feminine eroticism of musk and sandalwood, one knows that this PARISIENNE knew a 'night of love'."

--Packaging--
With echoes of Viktor and Rolf, it's unusual while still being romantic as the lilac liquid shines through the glass bottle. This is set off by a high-shine gold top that you simply pull off, and with the trademark YSL label stuck to the front in black and gold.

--Application--
Spritz onto pulse points, and go.

--Appearance--
While the liquid appears purplish in the bottle, nothing is visible on the skin.

--Scent--
The overriding smell is of violets, so this definitely takes some getting used to. Some of the scents described in the brief are virtually undetectable (cranberry, for instance), while some of the others emerge later on (such as patchouli). I personally don't hate it, but this is definitely a personal thing: many people will find it too sweet and I certainly wouldn't call it a classic fragrance that will live forever.

--Longevity--
About average, I'm afraid. Expect to reapply at least once or twice a day.

--Value for money--
A nice enough fragrance (absolutely not down there with the horror of Sisley's fragrances) but for the money I'd expect something more timeless and something that lasted longer on your skin. As an English girl living in Paris, the concept of the perfume definitely appeals to me, but it's debatable as to whether the quality of the fragrance truly lives up to the vision. Go for Viktor and Rolf's Flowerbomb instead.

perfect partners
Parisienne Eau de Toilette, from £32 for 30ml
Parisienne Body Lotion, £28 for 200ml
Parisienne Shower Gel, £27 for 200ml