Payot Uni Skin Perles des Rêves

RRP: £54 for 38g

--What does the promo say?--

"The latest addition to the Uni Skin perfecting routine, Perles des Rêves offers your skin just what it needs to ensure a more even, brighter complexion in the morning. Its pearls enriched with shea butter melt on the skin, enveloping it with infinite softness. Used night after night, your skin will look more beautiful, softer and more harmonious."

--Packaging--

The jar is elegant and ergonomically designed, with the opaque glass jar beautifully displaying the pearls. The Payot logo is minimalist and unobtrusive. The white lid is a screw top, but it has no place for the opaque white spatula to sit or slot in, which seems inconvenient. The spatula itself is a good size. There's also a cover once the lid has been removed, to protect the pearls. This is easily pulled off when you need to use the product, but sits securely when not in use, so that you can travel with this product with confidence.

--Application--

The Payot website instructs, "In the evening, use the spatula to collect a pearl, then melt it in the palm of your hand. Apply to the face and neck after thorough cleansing." Unfortunately, I didn't read this prior to use and don't remember it being indicated on the silver cardboard box that encased all of the above. So I took four pearls (as that was the amount that seemed to sit comfortably on the spatula). This was probably too much - but I am not sure that only one pearl would cut it either (more of which below).

--Appearance--

The white pearls are gorgeous to look at and have the sheen that you would expect as well. When warmed in your hands, they melt and coalesce to create something resembling a more traditional face cream that we would be familiar with. Once rubbed into the skin, no visible residue is left.

--Scent--

A more heavily perfumed scent than I would normally choose for a face cream, proving quite botanical thanks to the various plant and flower extracts that are included. However, this soon settles down and doesn't feel too intrusive once the cream has been rubbed in, though it is still detectable. I actually quite liked this in the end as it made the bedtime routine feel more ritualistic.

--Texture and consistency--

As mentioned, four pearls was probably too many. This amount moisturised my face and neck generously this evening. However, I feel like one pearl would not do my full face, let alone my neck. So I will definitely be trying 2 or 3 pearls next time and seeing what works for me and my skin. This was perhaps exacerbated by the fact that I felt that the pearls, even once melted, had quite a thick texture and were not easy to rub into the skin compared to other face creams I have tried. This lack of smoothness perhaps detracts from the overall experience. The cream sat somewhat stickily on the skin for a while after applying it. While, as a night cream, we could argue that this does not matter as it has plenty of time to absorb, I have used other night creams that sink into the skin more easily than this one does.

--Effects on the skin--

This product promises a more uniform complexion, more nourished skin, and increased radiance. It may well be purely cosmetic (thanks to the product's literal pearlescence) but I suspect the product's slightly shimmery effect does indeed make the complexion appear more uniform and radiant, thanks to the effects of light-reflecting particles. Whether this is indicative of any deeper changes perhaps remains to be seen. Similarly, it promises to be "anti dark spot", meaning that ironically, for a product to fulfil its preventative aims, nothing should happen - so it's difficult to tell whether dark spots might have developed even if I had not used this product. However, I strongly suspect that increased nourishment is possible with this product thanks to its luxurious thickness and high-quality ingredients - and a higher percentage of users reported seeing this effect than increased uniformity (according to the statistics on Payot's website).

--Value for money--

Payot is a prestigious brand and so I was pleased to pick up this jar in my local TK Maxx for a mere £12.99. As a result, I would definitely be interested in trying more from the Uni Skin range (or indeed even their Pâte Grise anti-blemish range). Different websites and shops seem to be offering it at a range of different prices at the moment, so definitely shop around online and near you for the best deal. However, I am not sure if I would pay the full £50+ for a jar, just because I typically wouldn't spend this much on moisturiser anyway. More objectively, it's a luxurious product in terms of texture and scent which many will find a pleasure to use - and it's a visual treat as well. More to the point, I genuinely believe it does nourish the skin - so it will tick many people's boxes and would make a beautiful gift this Christmas.

perfect partners

Uni Skin Masque Magnétique, £38

Uni Skin Mousse Velours, £36

Uni Skin CC Cream, £41

Uni Skin Concentré Perles, £82

Uni Skin Yeux et Lèvres, £45

Should teenage girls wear makeup?

I try to read a variety of media, and while the Times and Financial Times are mainstays, I also read the Guardian regularly, and from time to time reactivate a free trial of the Telegraph. In the latter, I recently read Annabel Jones' 'Should teenage girls wear makeup? I think it's fine - and here's why' - and I tend to agree with her.

I started playing with makeup in the pre-teen years: when I was 11 or 12.

Puberty is starting younger and younger - I started my periods a month after my twelfth birthday and developed acne at the age of 10. This is also now happening to even younger girls, due to environmental factors such as diet. So if you do have acne, it's natural that your self-confidence would feel dented - and even though I do see the argument of letting the skin get some air (and even as an adult ensure I have at least two makeup-free days a week), I also think a bit of concealer does more good than harm (especially if, like I was, you are also bullied). This is one of the first points made by the Telegraph's beauty editor also.

I would probably just go for a lighter mineral concealer, rather than the cheap stick foundations and concealers that I used to slather on, which were quite thick and cakey. ELF does good affordable ones that will cover blemishes while allowing skin to breathe.

I also used to love messing around with nail varnishes with my cousin, and would argue that such experiences are good for bonding - though this is also an argument for cheap clothes and nail polishes, as well as plenty of nail varnish remover, as chances are it will go everywhere! I didn't have a particular favourite brand, but used to go for the classics that pervade the aisles at Boots and Superdrug - Maybelline, 17, and so on. I was mainly about the colours, rather than brands, and especially all about the glitter, for which Barry M is a good choice. It also teaches you about science - namely, not to use nail varnish remover to clean up accidentally spilled nail polish from the top of a plastic TV casing...

Experimenting with eyeshadows - especially pink glittery ones - was another favourite pursuit, and as well as being just plain fun, helps you to see what colours suit you so that you can develop a sophisticated style long-term. I wouldn't be so keen on pink glittery eyeshadows now, but would go for dark purples, blues, browns, metallics or even greens to highlight my grey eyes.

This argument is even more persuasive when it comes to foundation. While young skin doesn't specifically need it, there are plenty of lighter foundations available, as well as tinted moisturisers, and even BB creams, which didn't exist when I was an adolescent but are a great option for teen skin, not just for breathability but also their other functions (such as SPF). I wouldn't recommend cheaper options in this case - even now, I'd say investing in the base is everything so as to not damage your skin. Furthermore, more expensive brands tend to have a wider range of shades available, meaning you have a greater chance of a good-looking result. It's perhaps more important and higher-stakes than you might think to get this right at a young-ish age - I went for my first job interview when I was 15, and who wants to go with a massive tide mark along the jaw line because the shade isn't right? It's a good lesson for young people too: if you want to wear makeup, then look professional. While quite a few of the cheaper high street brands have upped their game since I was trying out foundations for the first time, most still have their 'palest' shade pitched either too dark or too orange - so I would recommend trading up. Try Lily Lolo for mineral foundations that are kind to acneic skin.

Even though I started wearing makeup at a young age, I'm forever grateful to my (otherwise strict!) parents for their laissez-faire attitudes regarding this. Annabel Jones mentions in her article about picking your battles and not restricting the amount or type of makeup your teen wears - and I tend to agree, as doing the opposite would only breed resentment. It's something your teen has to work out for themselves - and, as I have mentioned above, in their own time (and plenty of it).

As she also mentions, good skincare routines and products are vital too. Steer clear of the cheap and artificial as far as possible - brands like Lush, Zao, Couleur Caramel, and Lamazuna are environmentally friendly too. Conversely, don't be afraid to seek prescription products if really needed for teen skin conditions.

Annabel Jones' most important comment though, is that makeup is about enhancing - not disguising - who you really are. And that, for teenage girls who may be feeling more insecure by the day, is crucial.

Kalme Skincare Basic Kit

RRP: 39.95GBP

--What does the promo say?--
"The Basic KALME Skin Care Kit contains the Kalme Day Defence SPF25, Kalme Night Cream and Kalme Cleanser.

The Kalme Range is a combination of unique skin care innovations to reduce redness.

Five separate actives work together to nourish, repair and protect you skin.

Derma Sensitive is a natural active from young caper buds. Scientifically shown to create clear and uniform skin tone. It also reduces skin's reactivity and increases feelings of skin comfort and suppleness.

A broad sprectrum Sun Filter SPF25 with UVA & UVB coverage

24 hour moisturisation from a natural plant active keeps your skin supple and comfortable.

A super antioxidant active neutralises free radicals and lowers the oxidative stress on your skin.

Perilla seed extract is a naturally rich source of skin beneifical Omega 3 and Alpha Linolenic Acids."

--Packaging--

The green and white packaging reflects its botanical content and the flip top lids are generally practical. However, the day cream is quite runny and often seeps into the lid, so consider storing upside down. Long-term I'd also like to see the recyclability credentials of this packaging increasing.

--Application and usage--

"Suggested regimen for the Kalme skincare pack:

AM: Cleanse with the Kalme Cleanser do not rinse off with water.( If using) first apply Undercoat then the Day Defence SPF25 to whole face, or just Day Defence on its own. If using then apply Kalme Chameleon Concealer to whole face rubbing in gently until the required tone match is achieved. Additional cosmetics can then be applied if required.

PM: Cleanse with the Kalme Cleanser do not rinse off with water.( If using) first apply Undercoat then apply Night Repair Cream, or just the Night Repair Cream on its own."\

This is all very easy to do. It also works fine if you use a damp flannel or muslin to remove the cream cleanser.

--Appearance--

All three products are white lotions of varying thicknesses. None leave a visible residue on the face.

--Scent--

All smell fresh and natural.

--Texture and consistency--

The cleanser is very thick, creamy and luxurious, whereas the day defence feels more like a very runny sunscreen. The night repair cream is somewhere in between, feeling more like a normal moisturiser. None are greasy or sticky and the moisturisers absorb well, leaving no residue. The night cream and cleanser especially feel luxurious to use.

--Effects on the skin--

Redness is dramatically reduced, as promised, and I also saw an improvement in my acne. However, I felt like the day defence dried out my skin too much, especially on my neck, so I ended up using an alternative day cream to rectify this. The cleanser also removes makeup effectively (I cleansed twice in order to achieve this), and I love that the day cream contains SPF25 (I can confirm that I did not get sunburnt while out and about with this on!).

--Value for money--

Individually this amounts to just over 13GBP per product, which seems reasonable. This is a significant reduction compared to actually buying the products on their own online (they retail at 14.95GBP-19.95GBP). So the bundle of products is definitely the way forward if you want a complete regimen. I also think it's worth the money in terms of the effectiveness of the cleanser and night cream - though for myself I would give the day cream a miss. Nonetheless, I would recommend the range for anyone with sensitive skin.

perfect partners

Chameleon Concealer SPF20, 19.95GBP

Kalme Skin Care Kit (Full Range), 52.95GBP*

Kalme Undercoat, 9.95GBP

Day Defence Cream+SPF30, 19.95**

*contains all the products from the basic kit plus the concealer - representing a saving of 6.95GBP.

**note that this differs from the SPF25 cream included in the basic and full kits

Clean & Clear Advantage Oil Control Cream Wash

RRP: £4.99 for 150ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Clean & Clear® Advantage® Oil Control Cream Wash is clinically proven to help clear excess oil for fewer spots and leave skin looking shine-free for longer. This dual-action formula combines oil-absorbing PowderParticles™ and our patented Advantage® spot-fighting technology, to instantly remove up to 85% of excess oil* whilst helping to clear spots and blemishes. Oil-free. Won't clog pores. Won't overdry skin."

--Packaging--
The silver and blue colour scheme is nicely unisex, and the plastic tube is practical too, with a flip-top lid that's sturdy, but opens easily when you need it to.

--Application--
Rub between damp palms and massage onto the face, before wiping off with a wettened flannel.

--Appearance--
The cream wash is white, with white particles visible. No visible residue is left on the face after washing.

--Texture and consistency--
Thick and slightly clay-like, but easy to wash off once you have finished.

--Scent--
The menthol comes through strongly, which is most refreshing, but is not overwhelming.

--Effects on the skin--
Skin definitely seemed calmed and clearer, with dry patches sloughed away thanks to the PowderParticles. Overall, skin was more balanced, with oily patches also reduced within a week's use.

--Value for money--
Results are definitely visible in the short term, and the overall usage experience was undoubtedly pleasant and effective - especially so for a product with such an affordable price tag. I was sent mine for free by Clean & Clear's PR, but would definitely pay up.

perfect partner
Advantage Spot Treatment Gel, £4.35

Kick Start Coconut Oil

RRP: from £12

--What does the promo say?--
"Kick Start Organic Cold Pressed Virgin Coconut Oil is pure virgin coconut oil from Sri Lanka. Kick Start Organic Cold Pressed Virgin Coconut Oil has not been hydrogenated, bleached, refined or deodorised. It comes from the finest coconut palms on the west coast of Sri Lanka, which are grown using traditional farming methods and no pesticides. It is cold pressed and filtered in modern, hygienic conditions in Sri Lanka – from crop to shop. The large 920g tub is an economical and environmentally friendly way of buying Kick Start Organic Cold Pressed  Virgin Coconut Oil. This large tub will keep you going for longer and offers excellent value for money, the foil seal and screw top lid will ensure that your virgin coconut oil will remain fresh. Kick Start Organic Cold Pressed Virgin Coconut Oil  has organic certification from three separate bodies: Soil Association, USDA Organic, and Control Union. Produced from the pick of the palms in Sri Lanka, the palms have been specifically planted and nurtured carefully to meet the strict criteria and high quality that you require. The coconuts are grown in the west of Sri Lanka and to the north of the capital, Colombo, and are traditionally harvested and cold pressed."

--Packaging--
The black and red colour scheme on a white background, with a preponderance of capital letters, is unisex and punchy, and as mentioned, the foil seal and screw-top lid do help to keep the product fresh. However, while tubs do enable minimal wastage, they're not the most practical in terms of scooping the oil out and making sure none gets on the side of the pot - a pump action bottle would be far more practical and hygienic. 

--Application--
How you use this depends on what you've been using it for; as you can probably see from my tags, I've been using it for basically everything. First of all, to remove makeup or cleanse skin, just rub onto the face directly with your hands before wiping off with a cotton pad or tissue. Any excess can be rubbed into your hands and cuticles, or onto other areas of your body. If there's any left on your face, it doesn't matter, as it's an excellent moisturiser. If using this as a hair mask, run the oil through dry hair and cover your pillow with a towel so that you can sleep with the oil in your hair overnight before shampooing it out in the morning.

--Scent--
A full, natural and unadulterated coconut smell; sweet without being overpowering.

--Appearance--
White and waxy when stored below 18°C. It begins to melt from this temperature upwards and by the time it reaches 24°C it turns into a transparent oil, which leaves no visible residue on the skin or hair.

--Texture and consistency--
As mentioned, it depends on the temperature at which you keep it - so, waxy or oily. However, it absorbs reasonably quickly into body skin and is easy to wash out of hair after using it as a hair mask. Go easy with it if you're using it as a facial moisturiser, though, as it can leave skin looking a bit shiny if you use too much.

--Effects on the body--
An excellent moisturiser for face and body, with facial skin in particular seeing fewer spots and generally looking less angry. (You'd think that using oil on already oily skin would make the situation worse, but it actually doesn't. Post on the oil cleansing method coming soon!) As a hair mask it's equally good, helping to detangle, defrizz and condition hair. It also removes makeup very well.

--Value for money--
With the website offering discounts for buying 2 or 3 pots, as well as upgrading to the bigger 920g pot, you can really spend as much or as little as you like, and watch the value soar when buying in bulk. However, one 460g pot costs a very reasonable £12 for the quantity and quality of the product that you receive. Mine was free, but I would definitely pay this as it's such a fabulous multi-use product (and I haven't even started on the fact that it's food grade too and you can therefore cook with it - look out for an upcoming post on my food blog soon!) that works well on hair, face, hands and body - and it's ethically sourced into the bargain. Bravo!

Konjac Puff With Added Bamboo Charcoal

 RRP: £6.99

--What does the promo say?--
"Perfect for teen skin & those with oily skin prone to spots & outbreaks. The Bamboo Charcoal contains activated carbon & various minerals that enhance absorptive ability, perfect for removing excess oil. Bamboo Charcoal is also a natural anti- oxidant  so will help fight hard-to-reach, acne-causing bacteria."

--Packaging--
The sponge comes in a clear plastic pouch, which has a clean, blue and green minimalist and unisex design. Sadly it isn't resealable for travel, and it's worth getting it out of the packaging soon after purchase, as condensation had already begun to form inside the packet 1-2 days after receiving mine from Konjac's PR. It seems that Konjac has missed a trick in terms of also manufacturing travel holders for the sponge (only the sports sponge comes with its own holder, and they're not sold separately). While the sponge does dry out a little between uses, it wouldn't dry out fast enough between your final night away and your journey home the next day. 

--Usage--
The Konjac website recommends: "Before use, always wash the sponge thoroughly. We recommend plunging it in water and squeezing several times. If the sponge has dried out, always allow it to fully absorb water before putting against your skin.
Gently massage the face and body in circular motion all over, to exfoliate dead skin cells, and deeply cleanse. The massaging will stimulate tired skin and encourage skin renewal. Soap or cleansing solution can be added to the sponge if desired, but is not necessary." This is perfectly easy in all respects, regardless of whether or not you add cleanser to the sponge.

--Appearance--
The sponge itself is black and yet leaves no visible residue on the skin.

--Scent--
Despite the charcoal content, none.

--Texture and consistency--
Delightfully scrubby without being too rough. No different, really, from normal sponges.

--Effects on the skin--
Sadly, I didn't feel this did anything for me. I used the sponge initially with no cleanser added, and just felt like I was washing my face with water (the sponge doesn't "ooze" any of its beneficial ingredients when soaked). So I started adding cleanser, hoping that the sponge would maximise its effects. Sadly, beyond the normal exfoliation and slight radiance you would get from using any slightly textured flannel or sponge, I noticed no short- or long-term improvement in skin condition.

--Value for money--
At £6.99 this won't break the bank, and it's an original and eco-friendly way of exfoliating. However, beyond this, I sadly found that it didn't do anything that my normal cleanser didn't do. Back to the drawing board, Japan.

perfect partners
6-Wave Konjac Body Sponge, £9.99
Sports Sponge with Lilac Lady Pouch, £11.99

Potter's Herbals Skin Clear Lotion

RRP: £4.80
 
 --What does the promo say?--
"Potter’s Skin Clear Lotion is formulated to deeply cleanse the skin and help clear pores using a blend of natural herbal ingredients including Witch Hazel, Benzoin, Lavender, Pine and Tea Tree. A gentle astringent cosmetic lotion which, used regularly, can help to deeply cleanse skin and help clear pores from excess oil and grease. Its mild fragrance makes this a popular choice by both men and women. Particularly good for adolescent skin care."

--Packaging--
This has changed recently from a dark blue label (see left) so don't worry if you can't seem to spot it immediately online. Suitably unisex with a GENIUS tapered nozzle, meaning no wastage.

--Application--
Can be used after or even in place of a cleanser (I've been doing the latter). Soak a cotton pad in this and then apply all over the face. Naturally avoid contact with your eyes and ears.

--Appearance--
A slightly bubblegummy blue thanks to the artificial colourant added, which seems a bit unnecessary. Thankfully this doesn't leave any visible residue on the face after use.

--Scent--
The witch hazel is prominent, with the tea tree perhaps being the next most detectable.

--Texture and consistency--
Liquid - basically like water.

--Effects on the skin--
This is a non-irritating product that delivers good results within a short time frame. Improvement can be noted within 1-2 weeks, with diminishment of whiteheads being particularly significant.

--Value for money--
At this low price tag you've got nothing to lose and everything to gain. Once my free bottle from Potter's Herbals' PR runs out, I wouldn't hesitate to purchase.

perfect partners
Distilled Witch Hazel, £2.50
Comfrey Oil, £3.40

Spongeing your skin

How do you wash your face?

With a flannel, a cotton pad, a tissue, or just with your hands like on the TV?

The Konjac Sponge Company has a new idea: why not wash our faces with sponges? But not just any sponge, oh no. Their sponge (the clue's in the name) uses the konjac plant, and it's already taking off in Japan (all the best stuff seems to start there, doesn't it? First BB creams, and now this).

How it works is this: this relative of the potato is ground down into flour (which has previously been used to make noodles and thicken food) before being mixed with pure filtered volcanic water, put into moulds, fermented, steamed, and baked into shape. Different supplements are added to suit your skin type, whether it's bamboo charcoal to balance oily skin or red clay to hydrate dry skin.

The sponges hold ten times their weight in liquid, so you don't need much water. No cleanser is needed, but if you still want to use one anyway, use less than you normally would, as the sponge will make it go much further. The sponge then exfoliates gently to get rid of dead skin cells, increase radiance, and reduce puffiness.

When the sponges show signs of wear and tear (usually around the 3-month mark), their fully biodegradable qualities mean that they can be disposed of in a completely environmentally friendly way, whether you want to compost them or feed them to your house plant.

Not convinced? Try it yourself: from August 20th-24th, a pop-up shop will be running in the Marylebone district of London (specifically at 10a Blandford Street), where you can speak to experts about the best sponge for you. Pop in between 11.00 and 3.00 on any of the days above to test it out. With luck I'll be sent one to try soon, so will also be able to feed back on this spongy revolution. *tosses flannel into the wash*

Dr Hauschka Rejuvenating Mask

RRP: £35/30ml

--What does the promo say?--
"This pack brings life and vitality to pale, dry skin and helps improve the elasticity of pores. It can also help with the healing of scar tissue. Nurturing plant oils soothe and calm sensitivities as well as moisturising the skin."

--Packaging--
An almost medicinal metal tube with a plastic white screw-top lid and minimal writing. Only the characteristic orange band for decoration gives it away as being a Dr Hauschka product and not something your doctor would prescribe.

--Application--
The Dr Hauschka website advises use once or twice a week for best results. The mask (which I was kindly sent by Dr Hauschka's PR bods) should be applied liberally after cleansing and toning, left for 20-30 minutes, and then removed with a moist cloth. It can also be applied to heavily scarred areas lightly, on a daily basis, underneath moisturiser and makeup, to act as a day-to-day healing agent.

--Appearance--
The "mask" is in fact a thick cream, and the colour is a sickly-looking yellow-green colour. But don't let this put you off in the least: it leaves no visible residue on the skin and the colours come from entirely natural sources.

--Scent--
Refreshing, citric and herbal, meaning that this makes for a unisex product that can be used by all, although it's difficult to say where the scent comes from exactly, as the preparation is packed with good things, including apricot, borage, and jojoba oils.

--Texture and consistency--
Unlike a 'normal' face mask, this doesn't dry on your face. It comes out of the tube like a thick cream and stays that way throughout the 20-30 minute wait. The skin seems to absorb what it needs and then you can wipe away any excess. In spite of all the oils used, it's not greasy in the least, and it's easy to wipe off the excess too.

--Effects on the skin--
Skin definitely feels significantly softer after use, and even though I've only used it twice, I can see a small improvement in my skin already, with there being fewer spots and less redness.

--Value for money--
This is an interesting conundrum. To my mind it's an effective, luxurious product, made with high-quality ingredients, so theoretically I shouldn't baulk (much) at the £35 price tag, particularly as it does seem that one tube would last you a while. However, given that it costs €27 (today: £22.84) in Germany and around €32 (£27.07) in France, it's definitely worth waiting for your next hop to the continent to purchase this, as the UK markup seems a little high. Nonetheless, would definitely recommend.

perfect partners
Intensive Treatment, £48.45
Cleansing Cream, £14.95
Clarifying Toner, £24.95
Normalising Day Oil, £24.25
Rhythmic Night Conditioner, £44.95
Facial Steam Bath, £26.45
Cleansing Clay Mask, £25.45
Pure Care Cover Stick, £17.25
Daily Face Care Kit for Oily Skin, £17.95
*these are the recommended 'partner' products for oily skin. For recommendations for dry skin, sensitive skin, and other skin types, consult the Dr Hauschka website.

La vie en rose: introducing Melvita's new range

I always love meeting new bloggers and seeing new products. So whenever a press event comes up that I'm able to attend (which invariably involves combining these with two of my other loves: free stuff, and free food), I'm delighted to get stuck in, and this was certainly the case with French organic beauty brand Melvita's launch of its new line of rose products, which took place in Paris on the evening of May 3rd, 2012. 

I'd never tested Melvita's products, but my aunt is a big fan, and she's also very knowledgeable, living in the vicinity of  Melvita's headquarters in the south of France and having attended a few of their events from time to time as well. To get the chance to try out the products for myself, then, and to get to know the brand better, was an important thing. And Melvita definitely give a very good first impression: they surely know how to entertain their guests, welcoming them in style at an exclusive cake shop in Paris' luxurious 16th arrondissement, La Pâtisserie des Rêves.

The brand had really gone the whole nine yards with this event. Not only were full-size samples of the products available to take home, but a professional florist had been hired to help us make our own flower arrangements of five roses, a photographer was on hand to take pictures of us (not-so-)artfully chucking rose petals in the air, and the patisserie had taken the theme completely to heart by serving us rose shortbread and rose nougat, as well as chewy sweets tasting of rose and lemon that seemed scarily addictive. En plus, this was all washed down with rose water and rose lemonade.
 
But what of the products themselves? After we'd been filled with delicious cake, it was time to take off the rose-tinted glasses and critically analyse the products. We'd each been given three full-size products from the new Nectar de Roses line: Gélée Fraîche Désaltérante (a light moisturiser), Eau Fraîche Micellaire (a 3-in-1 cleanser, toner and makeup remover), and the standard Nectar de Roses (a moisturiser for drier skin types). All are worth roughly €20 each and are completely organic.

The product that appealed most to me was the Eau Fraîche Micellaire, even if I didn't fully understand what 'micelles' actually are or what they in fact do. (It turns out, science buffs, that they're molecules diffused within a liquid that keeps them all together. There are two types, water-in-oil and oil-in-water, of which the Eau Fraîche Micellaire appears to be the latter. This creates a soapy solution which allows lipids and vitamins A, D, E and K to be retained - always handy for more youthful and less dry-looking skin!) In any case, a 3-in-1 product which can help save time, money and space, particularly when travelling, is always a plus.

I've also been testing the light moisturiser, which has a heavenly fragrant smell and seems to absorb with ease. The heavier moisturiser will be sent to my auntie, who has drier (and - sorry - older!) skin, for testing. More detailed assessments of these products will therefore be available shortly.

The Nectar de Roses range allegedly provides a full three-step regime no matter what your skin type. Firstly, you need to clean your skin - with the 3-in-1 product mentioned above if you have oily skin, or with their cream cleanser and makeup remover if your skin is dry. You then tone, either using rose flower water or rose oil. Finally, hydration is provided through the two moisturisers I already talked about.

Ultimately, I left the event with an excellent impression of the brand and its products, which are clearly crafted with care and attention. This care and attention is evidently also lavished on its bloggers, in the hope of providing the most positive launch possible. Even if I don't end up using Melvita's rose range long-term, their other products for oily and acne-prone skin, especially the anti-blemish roll-on and their tinted healing concealer, look very tempting too. As do all the cakes and biscuits and sweets that I ate at the launch. (Note to self: drag husband to said patisserie for tea on Saturday.)

GlossyBox

 RRP: £10 a month

--What does the promo say?--

"Stay up to date with current trends and discover new niche brands. Every month, GLOSSYBOX delivers a mix of 5 exciting product miniatures packed in a beautiful box for you to test at home. Our product selection is original and innovative. You can try them out in the comfort of your own home and in your own time without any pressure from sales associates."

--Packaging--

When Glossybox offered to kindly send me a free Glossybox, I was in no universe expecting it to be so beautifully packaged. The pale pink and black box is sturdy and pretty, filled with luxurious ribbon and tissue paper in coordinating colours, and comes with full product information too (also printed up in their black and pink colour scheme). Definitely has the wow factor as well as being practical; for the packaging alone, a Glossybox subscription would make a great gift. Swift and secure dispatch also ensure it arrives promptly and undamaged.

--Contains--

As mentioned, you get five product samples (not including multiples; I think including multiples I had 6 or 7 individual pots, vials or sachets). I was intrigued to find out whether these would be full size products, or no more than the teeny sample sizes you get at any posh beauty counter. As it turns out, it's a mixture of the two.

--Concept--

It takes the same view as a magazine or mobile phone subscription: you pay £10 a month to receive an ongoing service. Unlike a magazine or mobile phone subscription, though, the Glossybox can be easily personalised: on the Glossybox website, you can fill out beauty profiles so that you're sent things that fit your beauty and styling requirements. In addition, there is a loyalty scheme on the website which enables you to pick up 500 GlossyDots for every friend you recommend, and 20 GlossyDots for every product from the box that you review on the site. Once you attain 1000 GlossyDots, your next box is free. This all encourages active use and consumer loyalty. Buying products you have enjoyed using is also enabled through the site, and cancelling subscriptions seems to be easy based on the website description of the process. The only feature I would add to the concept would be some sort of forum or service enabling GlossyBox users to interact as an integral part of the site: while there is a blog (and doubtless various Facebook and Twitter accounts), the site community would be strengthened further if its users could communicate with each other more easily.

--Product satisfaction--

With GlossyBox promising high-end and niche products alike, I was certainly not disappointed with the selection I received in the September box. I used one of the two generously-sized Dead Sea Spa Magik Salt Brushing sachets on a weekend away in the Loire valley, which rejuvenated and energised as well as fitting in with the luxury setting of my weekend. At £12 for 500ml as advertised on the site (offers exclusive to the site/to GlossyBox subscribers could perhaps be another way forward, allowing companies to shift more of their products and keep GlossyBox users loyal?), I would definitely buy. The HD Brows set is sophisticated and technical, and the Moa green balm is a serious contender to Liz Earle's Superbalm thanks to its multitasking moisturising rescue properties for your whole body. The Neal and Wolf Glow Super Shine Spray is also sure to add a touch of glamour and confidence to any girl's hair. The sample of Plum perfume, by Mary Greenwell, was the only thing I was disappointed with - not for its scent, but the sample size was nothing special and no different to what you get as a freebie if shopping in a department store. However, the box definitely gave me the chance to try products I'd had earmarked for a while (the Moa green balm had been pinned to my fridge in the form of a magazine cutout for months) as well as to discover products I didn't know to exist.

--Value for money--

While for some people £10 seems a lot for something unnecessary, people across the world spend this sort of money routinely on things like state-of-the-art mobile phones. However, the statements made by the company are valid: this is a good way to try a lot of new, different beauty products at once without wasting your money on full size packs. I have also heard GlossyBox lovers justifying the purchase with reasons such as them not drinking or smoking, and so that this is their affordable monthly luxury. And I don't blame them - the brand easily fulfils its brief of delivering a slice of daily sophistication to users' doors, and I have already recommended it to my husband as a gift for a family member this Christmas. Top service.

Lush Tea Tree Water

RRP: from £3.25/100ml

--What does the promo say?--
"Tea tree is extremely soothing and can work wonders on troubled or oily skin. We've also added juniper berry and grapefruit waters to refresh and tone with natural oils."

--Packaging--
The black recyclable spray-top bottle with chalkboard-style writing is very typical of Lush, keeping things simple while still making the product stand out on the shelf. Only problem is that sometimes the pump can stop or get stuck, meaning you either have to just keep pumping or wait a bit for it to revive itself, which can get a bit annoying.

--Application--
After cleansing, spray directly onto clean dry face (close your eyes now!) just as a quick summer refresher (and then wipe it away with a cotton pad if you want). Orrrr you can spray it onto a cotton pad (4-5 pumps will do it) and wipe over your face. Then moisturise as normal. No problems here.

--Appearance--
It's a completely clear liquid.

--Scent--
You can smell the tea tree, but it doesn't pack as much punch as other tea tree products I've used in the past, which might be good if you normally find the tea tree smell to be a bit overbearing.

--Texture, consistency, and sensation--
The sensation provided by this toner is lovely and cooling, with no irritation occurring at all.

--Effects on the skin--
It does seem to lift off a little bit of grime when you look back at the cotton pad, but perhaps the lack of any really strong smell also proves a signal of its performance: I did not see any significant long or short-term improvement in my skin as a result of using this toner. Shame.

--Value for money--
While very travel-friendly, this product just didn't do it for me. The full-size bottle being about £6, if you're on a similar budget I'd perhaps plump instead for Elizabeth Arden Oil Control Clarifying Toner, Black Opal Purifying Astringent, or Lavera Mint Facial Toner - all of which look promising for those of us with oily skin.

perfect partners
Tea Tree Toner Tab, £0.75/5 grams
Tea Tree 7 Tab Twistwrap Pack, £5/35 grams
Aqua Marina Cleanser, £5.50/100g
Grease Lightning Cleanser, £5.10/45ml
Herbalism, £5.50/100g
Saving Face, £7.50/20g
Vanishing Cream Moisturiser, £15.25/45 grams
Cosmetic Warrior Fresh Face Mask, £6.45/75 grams

Cattier Touch'Express

RRP: between £5.50 and £5.98 for 5ml (excluding postage costs)
Retails at: a selection of online outlets, including www.mondebio.co.uk and www.apotheke-international.co.uk

--What does the promo say?--
"The Cattier Touch’express purifies and neutralizes imperfections, relieves blemishes, and soothes. Its antiseptic formula dries out spots and cleanses and soothes the epidermis."

--Packaging--
Comes in a slightly cumbersome cardboard contraption, which to its credit does adequately convey the benefits of the product in cartoon form. Throw the cardboard bit away and you are left with a sophisticated, simple, pharmaceutical-style tiny white pump-action canister with blue writing on it.

--Application--
While it is advised to spray this directly onto the individual blemishes, and while this is certainly possible, too much oil is perhaps dispensed per spritz to deal with just one spot, so if you have a particularly severe case of acne, it seems more efficient and effective to spritz once onto each cheek and then rub over the whole face, taking care to avoid the eyes and lips (do this before moisturising, but after cleansing and toning).

--Scent--
The smells of the principal ingredients - rosemary, tea tree, and mint - are staple ingredients of products for acneic skin, and all come across strongly, with the rosemary providing a nice, quite different kick. The overall smell is quite strong so be warned!

--Appearance--
A clear oil. No visible residue is left on the skin after use.

--Texture and consistency--
Rubs into the skin well, especially in tandem with the moisturising stage. Does not transfer too much too hands; not greasy or uncomfortable.

--Effects on the skin--
Immediately after application, skin feels cooled, refreshed and treated. Long-term, I noticed some improvement in my skin, but as with many skincare products for my skin type, I have found that it hits a plateau of effectiveness, although this perhaps says more about the severity of my own skin condition than about the quality of the product itself.

--Value for money--
Unfortunately, one canister of this oil does not last very long (only 4-6 weeks), and bought in France for its RRP there (€8) at the current exchange rate, value for money goes down more. It would need to work miracles for me given that stock needs to be replenished so often, and it hasn't done so, which is a shame. The price is not unreasonable overall, though, and other products from Cattier's range give you a bit more for your buck. For better value for money, Clinique's Anti-Blemish Solutions Clear Blemish Gel (£12) is recommended.

perfect partners
Purifying Lotion, £4.90/200ml
Purifying Mask, £4.95/75ml
Purifying Cleansing Gel, £6.25/200ml
Purifying Gel Cream, £6.25/50ml

Amala Hydrating Cream Cleanser

RRP: £42/200ml at www.beingcontent.com
--What does the promo say?--
"Hydrate dry skin while gently removing makeup and impurities with thiscomforting cleansing cream from Amala. The whole botanical ingredients help sootheand restore moisture for clean, soft, radiant skin.
Formulated with Amala's organic milk emulsifier, this natural and organic cleanser contains
* Jasmine: helps nourish, moisturise and soften dry skin, while providing antioxidant protection.
* Papaya: deeply hydrates skin, helping to strengthen skin's moisture barrier with essential fatty acids.
* White Clay: helps remove makeup, impurities and dead skin cells."

--Packaging--
Looks like it has just left a luxury spa to come and live in your bathroom: the opaque white plastic of the sample tube and the copper-coloured lid makes for a simple and elegant package.

--Application--
Wet your face using a damp flannel, and then one pump of this means you're ready to go. Rub the dose of cleanser over your wet face, and then rinse off, again using a wet flannel. Once your face has dried, proceed with your usual routine.

--Appearance--
A light yellow cream that is even in colour and leaves no visible residue on the skin.

--Scent--
The jasmine in this is very obvious, so if you don't like the smell of this particular flower then you might be better off trying something else.

--Texture/consistency--
Creamy and luxurious, but light at the same time. It glides over the skin with ease, and washes off without a fight.

--Effects on the skin--
Skin seems smoother, calmer, and less red. Usually when a product wants to hydrate my skin, I send up a prayer to the god of skincare (surely my skin is oily enough without needing to be hydrated more, and this is bound to go badly?!), but I could breathe a sigh of relief: while no miracles were achieved, I definitely saw some improvement in my skin condition during the use of this product (probably thanks to the white clay it contains, which is also used in many acne-fighting products).

--Value for money--
Now here's the snag: at £42 for 200ml, this certainly isn't cheap. However, my skin is absurdly soft thanks to the use of this product line, so I can imagine that the product's target group (=those with dry or sensitive skin) would benefit enormously from it. It also gives me confidence that the purifying range would work well on my acne (though I'd steer clear of the regenerating range, which is almost twice as expensive as these other two lines). Finally, the tiny sample tube that www.beingcontent.com sent me only contained 5ml, which has lasted me at least 2 weeks. This means that a 200ml tube would last you MORE THAN A YEAR, and that the product would ultimately cost you less than £1 a week (in fact, probably closer to 50p). I'd therefore definitely recommend it: a simply gorgeous, effective, organic treat.

perfect partners
Hydrating Toner, £42/100ml
Hydrating Face Cream, £60/30ml

Cosmetics Contemplations: Skin Sob Story

Now, I know there are plenty of people in this world with far more pressing problems than acne, both skincare-related (disfiguring scars...) and otherwise (abuse, bereavement...). However, the permanent battle against acne, spots, zits, whatever you want to call it, is so pervasive and common with pre-teens, teens and twentysomething-plusses throughout the world that it seems impossible to ignore.

I first started seeing spots on my face when I was TEN. Yes, ten. My Year 6 class photo bears the evidence for all to see. It was embarrassing enough starting secondary school with this, being barely old enough to wear any makeup to cover it, but I could at least harbour the hope that I would grow out of it by the time I was fifteen and old enough for parties and boyfriends. It didn't happen. I then set my sights on being sixteen, in the sixth form, and spot-free. No such luck; in fact, my acneic skin dogged me through sixth form and university, and now, at the age of (nearly) 24, many of the students that I teach have better skin than I do.

I suppose the possibility that I might suffer acne into adulthood was always something that I knew about, at least in a very abstract way: at fourteen, I had a science teacher named Miss Marshall, who was probably about the same age then as I am now, and she had terrible acne. I remember thinking I would just die if I was in the same situation as her when I was grown up. Now I am, and I'm not dead, and nor do I wish to be, but that doesn't stop it from being demoralising. Equally, when I was 17, I was diagnosed with polycystic ovary syndrome. As well as potentially restricting fertility (though I won't know the effects of this until I try to have children), it can also send the amount of testosterone in a woman's body haywire, sometimes causing or aggravating hirsutism and acne. Trying to get my oily and acne-ridden skin under control has therefore been a constant battle.

The plan of attack for many sufferers is three-pronged: makeup, medication, and skincare. I feel sorry for the guys when it comes to point one, as the purchase of makeup can add further embarrassment to the whole problem. Mineral makeup can help matters, and a decent concealer (mineral or no) is my absolute, number one, indispensable item. Medication and skincare are trickier areas: skincare products can appear to make skin better, only for the effects to then plateau or tail off, and there's the risk, too, of your skin becoming dependent on a particular product in order to stay clear, meaning that you haven't really treated the problem. This is why some people turn to medication, but this again can present a similar conundrum: will it send the spots packing for good, or will your skin flare up again once you come off the medication?

There are several options with regards to medical treatments: they can be topical (applied directly to the skin in the form of a cream or gel, whether bought off the shelf or prescribed by a doctor) or oral (oxytetracycline, for instance, is one of the many tablets that a professional can prescribe to treat acne from the inside). The most potent and perhaps also most famous oral treatment for acne is the prescription-only Roaccutane, which for many people is a lifesaver, sending spots packing for good. However, for others it can be a nightmare, increasing mood swings and giving sufferers painfully dry skin (including nosebleeds due to dryness inside the nasal cavity). Perhaps worse, after all of that, for some users of Roaccutane, it doesn't actually work the first time and you need to go on it again. Use of Roaccutane also needs to be monitored by a doctor as it is really only for the most serious of cases, meaning that most autonomy in terms of how you pursue your treatment is removed.

Having tried many of the topical treatments on the market, as well as a lot of the oral treatments available (including homeopathic ones), you wouldn't be the first to ask if I had tried Roaccutane yet (and if not, why not). The reasons are manifold (although I do sometimes wonder the same myself): firstly, I teach, and I cannot be doing with constant nosebleeds; secondly, I worry about some of the drug's other side effects, such as mood swings; thirdly, when I suggested this to my fiancé a few years ago he sounded like he'd have been happier if I'd said I wanted to give cocaine a try; fourthly, I do not like the thought of putting myself through all of that only to have the drug fail and for me to be back at square one; and lastly, perhaps stupidly, my skin does ultimately seem to be improving with age. My back and arms used to be covered in spots, and now they no longer are; my face and chest, while not perfect by a long way, also seem to have improved greatly (though this varies according to the treatments that I use).

Perhaps this approach is naive, and perhaps I am dicing a bit with fate to really believe that my skin will be totally clear by the time I am 30. But I do wonder sometimes if I am not totally mad to say "no thanks" to a treatment that could, in making my skin better, also boost my self-esteem, and not make me resort to airbrushing my wedding photographs. You cannot blame me, as someone who has suffered with acne for over ten years now, for feeling a little bit cheated out of my youth.

Some claim one final approach: changes in diet. I do hate the assumptions that people make about people with acne (that we do not wash or that we eat badly), and I do not think I really believe that diet makes a significant difference to skin condition. Certainly eating plenty of fruit and vegetables, and drinking lots of water, won't do your skin any harm, but as someone who has gone through a range of diets (eating meat, to turning vegetarian, to going back again, to eating so badly that I piled on a couple of stone, to eating well/normally again and losing the weight) I cannot say that I have noticed any difference to my skin in any way that would correlate with a change in diet. Even though I have not tried cutting out dairy (an approach that some swear by), I eat so little dairy anyway (don't even have milk on my cereal; tend to eat dark chocolate; have no more than a yoghurt a day and a tiny amount of cheese at weekends; don't have milky coffee or tea) that this would seem like a lot of pointless aggro.

So, naive/stupid or not, I'll just stick with my current two-pronged attack (no medication as it often messes up the oral contraceptive that I take) and hope that in conjunction with age it will do the trick eventually. At least, too, I know that my friends are real friends, and don't just love me for being one of the beautiful (read: clear-skinned) people.

Skincare
Treatments that I have found to be effective, in order of price:
-Pond's Cold Cream Cleanser, £3.99
-Liz Earle's cleanser, toner and Skin Repair Light, £21.75 for the travel kit or £40.25 for the three full-sized products
-Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions cleanser, toner and moisturiser, £30 for the travel kit or £44 for the three full-sized products

Makeup
- Lily Lolo mineral foundation
- Bare Minerals mineral foundation
- Clinique Anti-Blemish Solutions foundation
- L'Oreal Touche Magique concealer
- No7 Quick Cover Blemish Stick concealer

Medication
Try tackling your skin with regular skincare first (see above), as well as mass market topical treatments, such as masks or tea tree oil, which is targeted at oily or acne-prone skin, before seeing a doctor. You can also try homeopathic treatments. The doctor will likely prescribe two or three different types of oral medication, in addition to prescription-only topical treatments. Only if this does not work will you be referred to a dermatologist with reference to Roaccutane. Do not attempt to self-prescribe/buy the drug off the internet as you should be monitored by a health professional during its use.